Jump to content
  • Announcement

    Welcome to the forums!

    If you are a newly-approved member, make sure you check out the New Member Checklist!

    If you are a Detachment member and can't see the member-only area, post here for access.

    -DV

Okashi Darth Talon proyect


Okashi

Recommended Posts

Hello everywhere :D

I started my Darth Talon proyect with the boots and gloves (I'll put images soon). The gloves are of leather and 65 cm long. Leather black boots with conservative heel and over thigh long.

 

I have any doubts. If Pam could help me...

 

After looking at the comics and the images I have wondered for that the clasp of the belt must be silvered when the whole armor is black?

 

The CRL still is in construction, can I meet the problem of which they do a great change that binds to re-do an entire part?

Examples:

Obligatory size lekku long (more long that Pam's lekku)

Color or material of any thing

 

Pam, how can you make that chop lekku to head no obvious when using your lekku in a Darth Talon costume? using latex? adhesive?

 

I'm reading and reporting on everything I can to not bother much with my questions. And your web "chucrew", is my Bible for this. And the twilek's forums.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have more questions for Pam

 

Can I use for the legs and arms armor and clasp belt?

 

foamed PVC 2mm thickness (FOREX)

or

sintra

or

blued steel

or

anodized aluminium

 

---------

 

Pam, can you sell me a lekku for Darth Talon? I send you a mail, but I forgot to tell that I need for a Talon (no tapes on the forehead that which can mask cuts)

 

"Lekku headpiece with the thinnest latex I could manage on the forehead. I plan to make a new mold and better lekku in the spring, but if I don't manage, this headpiece should do the trick." http://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=777

 

------

 

Could I paint the lekkus with mehron liquid paint? (I read something in twileks forums)

http://www.mehron.com/Liquid_Makeup_p/111.htm

 

What's pros and cons could have?

Can I paint the lekku with brush os sponge?

 

Lekku painted in red and then black tattoos when dried above? with mehron liquid magicolor black? In the eyes use black eyeliner or the same makeup that tattoos?

 

--------------

 

That items are ok with the CRL? :

 

A pair of SITH lens

Darth-Maul-Crazy-Contact-Lenses.jpg

 

My boots

Leather black boots with conservative heel and over thigh long.

clipboardiq.jpg

 

My gloves

The gloves are of leather and 65 cm long.

19317934.jpg

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the saber need a small diameter hilt... 1,25" or 1,5" diameter ... for sculp over the hilt the organic desing of Darth Talon saber.

 

Could I use this? :

 

Standard Issue Aluminum

http://www.ultrasabers.com/SI-p/standard%20issue%20a.htm

 

 

EDIT: I send mail a Ultrasabers for know the size hilt.

 

 

Thanks for your suggestion and support

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Hi! I'm always excited to see someone start costumes like this! Currently, lekku are a little outside my skill set! So while I'm no expert, I just wanted to let you know that you're doing the right thing with all the research (It pays off, and it sounds like you know what you need to know), as Talon hasn't been done a lot. I know how frusterating it is waiting for replies - hang in there! Wish I could help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much for your support tyrolianna :)

I am researching everything and asking for opinions in my facebook where I have many friends of the legion501.

 

My next point is the armor pieces.

 

After seeing the metal finish on the metalwork of my uncle, I decided to make it of foam PVC / SINTRA / FOREX / TROVICEL

 

 

 

I'm think in 2 or 3 mm of thick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, darn! Where's my post?!

 

Last week I sat down and wrote a long post answering your questions and offering some suggestions, but I don't see it here in the thread. Now that I think about it, though, I think I wrote it on the day when my computer decided to restart itself after finishing some downloads... the computer must have shut down before I submitted the post. It's a bit late tonight, so I'll try to get everything retyped tomorrow. Sorry about that.

 

Pam :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohhh Pam :D thank you!! I know that you are VERY BUSY. Thanks for your attention ^^

 

A couple of weeks ago I was stressed and obsessed with the project.

But now I've got the patience and clarity to make this great project.

I can wait for your "new lekkus" (wink wink) if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, let's try this again! I'm going to go down through your posts, and see if I can catch all of the topics.

 

The belt armor, like the rest of the armor pieces should be a very dark silver... not a bright color, but more like gunmetal. That will make it stand out from the rest of the costume, but still give the appearance of being metallic. If the costume was black on top of black on top of black, and you wouldn't be able to see the details of the costume well.

 

normal_TopV.jpg

 

 

The CRL is still a work in progress. Things may change, but it shouldn't and probably won't have any big changes.... just cleaning up the descriptions to make sure they are clear and accurate. As long as you match the reference images well, you'll be fine. Remember, one of the problems with EU costuming is the fact that details change from one drawing to the next. We do our best to match the references, but we also understand that the details may not always be the same in ever drawing, so every costume will not be exactly the same, either.

 

 

I do not know what the LMO would say about the length of the lekku. Since Talon's lekku are usually shown to be longer than most Twi'lek lekku. Since no Darth Talon costumes have been approved yet, I do know that the first ones will need to be VERY accurate... so longer lekku may very well be required. I've seen great lekku made from fabric, coated with latex, and one girl even added vinyl extensions to her latex lekku in order to make them longer. You really have to look to find the seams, she did such a great job on them.

 

 

I'm glad the Twi'lek forum has been helpful. I never expected to see that happen! We created the forum just to help us plan a group photo at Celebration last year.... but then it grew. We're approaching 150 people registered on the forum now, when I never expected it to grow past twenty! Pretty cool.

 

 

The armor can be made out of any material that gives the correct look. It needs to be the right shape, and it needs to be rigid. There are lots of materials that can give the right look.... it's up to you to select the material, and make it look like the references! It's better to make the armor pieces out of a lightweight material, so that the pieces won't sag on your arms and legs from too much weight.

 

 

Sorry, since I never finished my Darth Talon costume, I never made the longer lekku. (I don't like the look of the super-long lekku, so I never really paid much attention to them after that!) I am still experimenting with the new way of making molds so that the forehead section will be thinner and able to blend... but the lekku are my normal length!

 

 

I paint all of my headpieces with body paint, so that the color exactly matches my skin. I've never tried the Mehron brand on latex, so I can't make guarantees that it works, but I have painted them with Ben Nye and Reel Creations, and both worked fine. I would recommend a test patch before using ANY kind of paint, to make sure it works well with the latex. A sponge usually works better than a paint brush, and an airbrush works better than anything else. The problem with sponges and brushes is that they leave streaks or spots which are difficult to blend.

 

Yes, it's best to paint the red first, and then add the black designs over that.

 

The contacts look good.

 

The boots look good, too. Where did you find them? It's so hard to find thigh boots that don't have high heels! There is a chance that the boots might not be tall enough, but you should be able to extend them a bit at the top if that becomes a problem. Without seeing them on a leg, it's hard to judge how tall they are!

 

 

The gloves look good. Like the boots, it's hard to know if they're long enough without seeing them on an arm, but they appear to be a good length.

 

 

I used a 1.25" hilt for the base of my Talon saber, and when the design was added to the outside, it became quite large. It's almost too big for a girl's hand now!

 

 

The airbrush you show in the link looks okay, but it's generally better to get one that doesn't say it's good for "small detail" work. That means that it will paint only a very small area at a time.... which means that it will take you a LOT longer to apply paint over a large area. Airbrushes have different sized nibs, or tips, which apply a large or small amount of paint over a large or small area... and when you're painting a body, larger is better! I've found that it's best to get the kind of airbrush that has an attachable jar on the bottom, rather than the ones that have a gravity feed cup on the top. When you're twisting around trying to reach places like the back of your arm, you don't want to worry about tipping the airbrush too much and letting expensive paints spill out of the cup!

 

Patience is very good for a costumer! Take your time, make each piece right, do your best, and you will be very happy with the results!

 

Pam :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR POST, PAM :D

It has solved many many many doubts.

 

Now, I am experimenting with PVC foam. Now I know that I have to paint the armor and buckle in dark gray metallic.

 

I tried the boots last week and found that the boots are not really high enough, I have to add a piece of about 10 cm.

The boots I bought in a store in my town. They're beautiful :D

 

Another questions:

 

I see in the picture you post ... is possible are the strips of armor pieces same material that armor pieces?

 

Is this good "colour" for the armor pieces?

see the car: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21/da ... advan4.jpg

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ooo... pretty car.

 

That would be an excellent base color, yes. Start with that, and then smudge black over it to give the armor an old, damaged look, and add the lightsaber burns!

 

 

Yes, the armor straps can be made of the same material, or something with a similar look. The important thing to remember is that you'll need to have something flexible. So, if the straps are rigid, they might need to have a section of elastic hidden on one side. Or, make the straps loose enough to allow flexiblity in your arms and legs, but attach them with velcro to the material under them to help them stay in place! It will probably take some experiments to find what would work the best.

 

You're right about the boots! They are very nice!

 

Pam :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pam, thanks for your help and oppinion :D

 

Another question:

the Darth Talon's bikini top can have the lines out (protruding) with a cord below the leather?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Another question:

the Darth Talon's bikini top can have the lines out (protruding) with a cord below the leather?

 

 

Hmmm.... I don't think that look would be approved. The bikini top is supposed to be made of leather sections that have been pieced together. (Like the patterns on a quilt.) We can fake that look by etching lines INTO the leather, but I don't think making the lines stick OUT would give the right effect. As you can see from the references, the lines are not bumps:

 

Legacy18Learn.jpg

 

Pam :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Pam. It is better for me to be safe than having to redo the bikini (important piece).

The bikini, in the real world, if made of strips sewn or glued does not give the correct volume, no volume and is ugly.

I will keep thinking

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

My plan when I was working on the Talon costume was to make the bikini front out of one piece of shaped leather. I was going to wet-form a piece of vegetable tanned leather into the shape I needed, and then I would etch the lines into the leather once it was in the correct shape. It's easy to etch lines by wetting the leather and then pressing the line into the leather with a sharp point.

 

Here you can see the lines I was etching into the belt:

 

TalonBeltLines.jpg

 

Pam :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This leather is not too thick to make the volume of a breast?

A leather craftsman is dealing with Badana's leather. It's special to model and make shapes like flowers.

I had photos of the process but erased from my mobile telephone :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I use a gray thread seam?

 

I asked the craftsman for your idea, and has seen the pictures that you have shown me. But he says that "leather can be carved" not do well volume of the breasts. In strips whether can be modeled, but in pieces to make volumes as breasts, he says no :(

 

This is the project:

Badana leather shaped to tops of the breasts.

img9368d.jpg

 

Foam to provide thickness.

img9369eb.jpg

 

"Secret bra" with tested safe dermatologic adhesive

img9370e.jpg

 

Black leather that lines the outside and holds the "Scret Bra" to the whole.

img9367r.jpg

 

Seams that divide the whole into four parts.

The "gray lines" are still without sewing. Then it will have stitches.

I need to know before whether it would be accepted.

 

img9374gj.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since no answer for the "gray thread seam" idea, I understand that it is no good idea...

Well,clearly stated in the CRL "cutting or tooling" or "Separate joining strips". But it is very ugly! And there is no tooling in a thin skin, but thick skin can not be modeled.

But I have an idea that might work:

 

Make small fold in the skin, paste or sew into,

cut the foam to put the small fold into.

And voilá! False "separate joining strips".

 

Attached photos of experiments

 

img9432xs.jpgimg9435ng.jpg

img9433j.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some pics of my advance:

 

My lenses

img95162.jpg

 

Lekku tatoo detail

img9495p.jpg

 

Lekkus rest in table

 

img9517u.jpg

 

pretty pokerface :mrgreen:

 

img9525a.jpg

 

Testing the template of head protector

img9528w.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some old photos of the process

 

First ear bud sculture (the second is more small)

 

img9337.jpg

 

Hear bud

img9353i.jpg

 

The lekku sculture

 

img9123w.jpg

img9176l.jpg

img9225ax.jpg

 

 

The base of the bikini top (doh! dammit flash!)

img9376n.jpg

 

The saber sculpt

saberx.jpg

 

Pieces of my armor

img8997l.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so far so good Okashi. I do not see anything that would not work out so far in your progress. Just remember to match the reference pictures as best you can. When you get to the point that you are ready to submit your pictures make sure that the join between your lekku and your head can not be seen. If you have any specific questions about parts of your costume please don't hesitate to ask. ^_^

 

^_^ Katie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...