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  1. Yesterday
  2. Good Evening Friends. I am working on a Nihilus costume and wanting to see what others that have approved costumes have used for gloves/boots. if you have pictures/sources where I can get them that would be appreciated.
  3. A bit delayed as it is all done manually, but the Garrisons/Outposts have been updated in the profile fields, and Squads have been removed. The reason being Squads change way more than Garrisons and Outposts, and are not overseeing units. If you want to go make sure yours is up to date, please do! Any Outposts that upgraded to Garrisons have stayed with just a name change, but the new Garrisons and Outposts are added, while no longer Garrisons and Outposts are removed.
  4. Do we have a name!?! This image comes off the web from the new Star Wars encyclopedia that will be released Nov. 19, 2024. I will confirm once I get my copy! ๐Ÿ˜
  5. Requestign detachment access as Darth Revan. https://www.501st.com/members/searchresults.php?searchfield=17799&criteria=tkid https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=36863
  6. Last week
  7. This is genuinely very impressive, it looks amazing! I'm definitely using some of these methods.
  8. A bit late but congratulations! Looks amazing! ๐Ÿ˜
  9. Hey everyone, I'm back from a little break. I did work on my helmet a tiny bit, the tusken spikes on top of the helmet I painted metal, I also added the hair braid. Also about time I posted about paints: Helmet: -Tan: The Army Painter: Colour Primer Skeleton bone. -Metal parts: The Army Painter: Warpaints: Gun Metal -Dried blood: Just a random /brown/ I had laying around. After everything was painted I went over it with a heavy black wash. Finger blades, Arm Spike: Both were done with Spectrum Silver, with the arm spike I applied a heavy black wash over it. As for my future plans: 1. Hand robotics, and tube. 2. Combine the tunic and shirt, I really don't see any signs on the actual in-game model that they're separate. The color is just a little different. 3. I'm also still planning on getting a proper bandolier sometime in the future, or making a new more accurate one myself, the last one was rather rushed since I wanted one for the con. 4. I'm also planning on seeing if I can add a tiny bit of a greenish tint to the metal parts on the helmet as seen in-game. I'm hoping I can complete all of the above by the next con in April! We'll see how it goes! Thank you! You're definitely right, It's way too white right now. I'll try the bath and see how it comes out.
  10. Hello there! So, for New York Comic Con this year I figured I would try to cosplay as Starkiller from Star Wars: The Force Unleashed and document the build process for the costume. For this build I tried to follow the Starkiller: TIE Training Gear CRL here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:SL_starkiller_tie_training I'll try to go in the same order as the CRL to be as thorough as possible. I only gave myself 30 days to complete the costume so some items might be incomplete, but I'll try to update this in the future and provide some suggestions to get it closer to the CRL. Safety Precautions: When doing any sanding, gluing, spray painting, or dremeling In this project you should always wear some protective eye equipment, a respirator, and gloves. The chemicals used in this build can be very toxic so it's best to not touch or inhale any of them. Short Hair: This one is pretty straightforward simply go to the barber and ask for a buzz cut with a #2 guard. If you are feeling adventurous you can get yourself a pair of clippers and do it yourself. See the pair of clippers I use regularly below. Wahl 5 Star Legend Wired Clippers: https://www.amazon.com/Wahl-Professional-5-Star-Legend-Clipper/dp/B00II2MSHU Shoulder Armor: For the armor I used a great EVA foam template I found on etsy which you can see below. The template is a little large compared to the one in the CRL but I found it looks mostly like it, and it comes with a stl file for the restraining bolt which is really cool. Also keep in mind you may want to build the gauntlet at the same time as the armor since they follow a very similar process. To start off you need to print out the template, cut it out, and trace it onto your EVA foam (I used 8mm Cosplay Pros High Density Black) using a white paint marker. Then you cut out the shapes using a craft knife with a fresh blade (make sure to follow the instructions that came with the template). Next you take a heat gun and shape the eva foam so the armor bends around the shoulders. It would help if you had a mannequin or partner you can use to shape the foam to. After that you glue the parts together using Weldwood contact cement. This stuff is really awesome and bonds instantly, you just need to know how to use it right. Apply the contact cement to both sides you want to glue together and let them dry for around 10 minutes. I noticed that the thin guard that extends around the neck and over the shoulders did not exactly reach so I cut out two small pieces of foam and extended them after gluing. Lastly you can heat up some large metal ball bearings and push them into the sides of the armor to get that rivet hole affect mentioned in the CRL. After shaping and gluing your eva foam you probably want to remove some of the rough edges and get rid of the seam lines. To do this, I first used a dremel with a medium grit sandpaper head on any really sharp edges or uneven surfaces. I also leveled out the two small pieces of foam I added to extend the neck guards. Lastly I used some DAS air dry modelling clay to fill in the seam lines. Simply use a very tiny bit of clay to make tiny worms by rubbing your hands together and shove them into the seam lines. Then wet your fingertips with some water and rub the clay into the seam lines. Do this a couple of times and it should look pretty level and clean. The next step is to 3D print the restraining bolt using the given stl file. I combined all three of the stl files into a single component using Cura so I didnt have to glue the PLA parts together (This is usually a massive pain). I was even able to print it without any supports and it still seemed pretty sturdy (The 3D printer I use Is the monoprice mini 3d v2). I also used a glass bed and if anyone is interested I could provide the print settings I used. 3D printing is pretty difficult to get the hang of so you may want to look for 3d printing services or see if your local makerspace can help you out. After 3d printing the restraining bolt you need to sand it down using some sandpaper then prime it using a filler primer (this type of primer will help make the print lines less noticeable). Lastly you want to glue the restraining bolt onto the armor using the Weldwood Contact Cement. Same process as before, just apply the cement to both sides, let dry for about 10 minutes, and push the pieces together. At this point it's probably a good Idea to glue the leather straps onto the armor (see the leather belts section below on how to create them). In total you should have six straps, two to hold the armor together in the back (I used two more for the back) and 4 for the front that wrap under your arms. To glue the straps on I would just recommend using hot glue. I did this by scoring the eva foam in the spots where you need to add the belts, then applying some hot glue, placing the strap on the hot glue, and letting them dry. After This you can then apply some more hot glue over the tops and edges of the piece of the strap you just glued to form a better seal. Lastly you should tape up these straps with some painters tape. The final step for the armor is to prime, paint and seal it. Since you used the heat gun on pretty much every portion of the foam already you shouldn't have to heat seal it. The first step is to prime or seal the foam itself using plastidip (you could also just cover it in white Elmerโ€™s glue mixed with water). You will probably need at least two cans of each spray paint to do both the armor and the gauntlet. Start by spraying a thin layer of plastidip on the armor keeping the can about 10 inches away from it and moving the can back and forth. After this you can probably do about three more slightly thicker coats (waiting 30 mins between coats). After the armor dries for about a day you should be ready to paint. For this I used Silver metallic Krylon fusion spray paint, but you may want to look for the nickel finish one since that is what is recommended in the CRL. I would do at least 2 coats or until there is even coverage and let dry for another day. Next I took some black acrylic paint and created the grease stains on the restraining bolt. I rubbed it on using some newspaper to get the uneven fading effect. after this I put a single coat of matte varnish on the armor to seal it. Lastly I created a wash using black acrylic paint and isopropyl alcohol which I covered the armor in using a paint brush. Starkiller EVA foam template: https://www.etsy.com/listing/697498272 Inner Shirt: This one is pretty simple I just bought one of the below muscle shirts Fruit of the Loom Muscle shirt: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1T736VK Tunic: Since I spent a lot of time on the armor/belts and I don't know how to sew or have a sewing machine, I decided to just buy something that most closely resembled the CRL. For the Tunic I chose a shaolin monk robe. I usually wear a medium (5โ€™โ€™10โ€™ 140 lbs) but the small one fit me fine. I then cut one sleeve to elbow length and the other I cut holes matching the CRL. When wearing the costume I just tuck the remaining portion of the robe into my pants. You can also weather the robe using some fake blood, but I did not have enough time. Shaolin Monk Robe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6FW5X6 Special Effects Makeup: I didnt do this part due to some time constraints but I think this is a pretty cool tutorial that should do the trick Scar Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baXjKHL_Odw Fabric Wraps: The fabric wraps are not too difficult to pull off. I bought these really great tube bandages that look and feel pretty good. You will probably need about four of these three dyed the grayish tan color (boots and gauntlet) and one dyed blackish brown color (hand wraps). You can dye them using the below Rit dyes. I used Taupe for the grayish tan and Chocolate for the blackish brown. When dying the wraps make sure to unravel and straighten them otherwise you will end up with a tie dye effect. After you dye the brown wraps you can measure out how much you will need for your hands and cut them accordingly. You will need pretty much an entire roll for each boot so those you can leave those as is. To secure the wraps you could use those metal latches that come with ace bandages but even better would be to sew on some velcro strips so they look more seamless. You could also just tie them off but they might come loose while you are walking around. RIt Dye (Chocolate) https://www.amazon.com/Rit-Dye-Liquid-Fabric-8-Ounce/dp/B000B7Q9KM Rit Dye (Taupe) https://www.amazon.com/Rit-Dye-Liquid-Fabric-8-Ounce/dp/B00AQ75RAA Tubular Stockinette Gauze Rolls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WVGGH1M Gauntlet: I don't think I got the gauntlet to look perfectly like the CRL but I believe it is pretty close. Hopefully from my version you could refine it to make it a little closer. For this I used the remaining 8mm eva foam from the shoulder armor. For the template I used a free gauntlet template from The Foam Cave (I would choose a slightly larger one than your wrists since you will wear bandages underneath) and my own custom template for the upper portion of the gauntlet and the side portion that juts out. Basically this โ€œcustom templateโ€ is just two rectangular boxes that run the forearm length of the gauntlet. The first box that acts as the housing for the display is made up of 2 (14.5cm x 2.5cm) long edges and 2 (6.5cm x 2.5cm) short edges that will sit on top of the second box. The second box is made up of 2 (16.5cm x 3.5cm) long edges, 2 (9.5cm x 3.5cm) short edges, and a (16.5 x 9.5cm) lid that acts as the base for the previous box. On both sides of the smaller enclosure on top there are two small slide shapes that you will also need to template. For the portion that juts out of the side of the gauntlet the dimensions were (13cm x 5cm) see the pictures for the odd looking shape. I made 3 of these shapes and glued them together to make the piece thicker. It's not clear to me whether or not there were one or two of these pieces on either side of the gauntlet so I just went with the one. After you have the templates for the gauntlet trace them onto the EVA foam with your white pen and cut them out with a craft knife. Next you can glue the box pieces together using the contact cement which shouldn't be too difficult. Once these pieces are glued separately you can stack them and glue them together forming the enclosure for the display. After this you want to heat shape the foam you cut out for the gauntlet template around your wrist. This will create the base for the entire enclosure to sit on. The gauntlet portion should now slide into the large bottom open end of the box display enclosure you glued previously. Once you have tested this out, glue the two portions together. Lastly you can glue together the 3 pieces that jut out from the side of the gauntlet and then glue the whole thing onto the side of the gauntlet. Now that you have the basic shape of the gauntlet it's time to do some aggressive dremeling. Draw two half circles on the front and back of the display enclosure boxes making sure to follow the curvature of the gauntlet trapped inside. The idea here is to make this portion less boxy and look more rounded. Once you have this outline, shave out the portion underneath the curve you just drew using a dremel with heavy grit sandpaper head. While you're at it you should level out any uneven portions on the gauntlet and remove any sharp edges (like the ones on the display enclosure boxes). Lastly it's probably a good idea to shave down that little portion that juts out on the side (for my build I think I made that portion a little too big). Once you are done dremeling the gauntlet follow the exact same process used for removing seam lines and painting as the armor above. The next portion of the gauntlet is actually building the display. I didn't quite finish the lighting for this portion due to some time constraints but I have a pretty good idea how it can be accomplished. To do this first cut out some clear plastic (I used some blister pack plastic packaging) to the dimensions of the display enclosure. Next you can cover the plastic in some red brake light tape. This should give the display that red filter. Next I designed a template for the "Order 67, Search, Destroy, Kota" wording which you can find below. You may need to mess with the scaling a little but you should be able to print this out onto some sticker paper. Then using an exacto knife I cut out all the white portions in the Arubesh lettering. Alternatively you could use a Cricut cutting machine for this portion if you have one. After this simply peel back the sticker and apply it to the red tinted plastic. You can probably then buy a short usb powered red led strip (using a small power bank to power it) and throw it into the open enclosure to make the gauntlet light up. Lastly I just secured the display to the enclosure using some clear packing tape. The entire gauntlet is covered in brown wraps so none of your mistakes should really be all that visible. Gauntlet Template: https://www.thefoamcave.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Gauntlet-Base-Template.pdf Belts: To make the belts I used some faux leather I found on amazon along with some cheaper 2mm eva foam and a variety of belt buckles. To do this I started by measuring out the belts on the eva foam following the specs in the CRL. I now realize the belts are a little too big after adding the leather, so I recommend subtracting 1 mm from the widths mentioned in the CRL. Be careful with some of these belts, as you will have to do most in two parts in order to satisfy the buckle requirements (ensure you provide enough extra length for each portion to wrap around your body). I then applied these measurements to the leather, increasing the width by about 1.5x. Next I cut out the foam and leather strips using a scissor and heat sealed the foam using a heat gun. To apply the leather to the foam I used a spray adhesive. I tried various different adhesives and the one I found that worked best was the guerrilla spray adhesive in the small bottle that sprays on clear. Even though this worked the best I still had to apply some hot glue later on (belts are hard). Next I attached the belt buckles to the belts using super glue, clamping them down for about 30 mins. The Slide release buckles can be attached by hammer so those don't need super glue. As for the larger belt I actually designed the buckle in free cad and printed 2 of them (I will provide the stl file below). For this belt I used velcro strips as the buckling mechanism. One thing that wasn't clear immediately from the CRL was that the swivel clips mentioned for the larger belt are actually lightsaber swivel clips. I only figured this out by looking at the action figure for Starkiller which allows you to attach various lightsabers to this portion of the belt. I did not manage to add any tails or miscellaneous hardware to the belts, even if I did the belts are so large I'm not sure they would have been visible. I will probably add them on in the future but I was pretty satisfied with what I had done so far. The straps for the armor were made in the same exact way as the above belts just using smaller side release buckles. Faux Leather Brown: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJLVVSFC Faux Leather Black: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZB26K19 2mm EVA Foam: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FPBMQP Lightsaber Swivel Clips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4JMAYM Slide Release Belt Buckle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0826JZ693 Side Release Belt Buckle Small: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4W26K8N Side Release Belt Buckle Large: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N6B4CR5 Guerilla spray adhesive: https://www.michaels.com/product/gorilla-heavy-duty-spray-adhesive-10678561 Pants: For the pants I just bought this pair of hollister mens straight pull on pants. These were super comfortable and have really deep pockets so you can hold pretty much a whole water bottle in each. It also looks pretty close to the pants in the CRL and matches the tunic I bought. I ordered a medium which was a little large but after tucking the tunic into it felt fine. Hollister Brown Pants https://www.hollisterco.com/shop/us/p/straight-pull-on-pants-56898691 Loincloth: The loincloths are also not very difficult to pull off. For these I used this brown cotton fabric I found on amazon. First you have to cut it to the specifications mentioned in the CRL (You may want to cut it slightly longer since you want to tuck them into your pants). I then used that same wash that I used on both the gauntlet and armor to stain the fabric and let it dry. Brown Cotton Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9HJ3HSZ Wrapped Boots: Depending on your shoe size this might be a tough one. I am size 10.5-11 mens but I have found womens riding boots to be the best option for affordable tall cosplay boots. I found the first pair below (size 12) which fit pretty comfortably and really gave me no issues walking around for a couple of hours. Make sure to wrap them tightly and be careful not to get sucked into any escalators. If you're lucky enough to fit into a womens size 11 you might wanna go with the second pair as they look a little closer to the CRL. womens brown riding boots: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3V5PX64?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title womens brown riding boots: https://www.lifestride.com/product/womens-xtrovert-riding-boot-5261291/dark-tan-81776 Lightsaber: This is probably the single most expensive component for the cosplay, but it is optional. For the lightsaber I went with the Starkiller1 Weathered Ver Neopixel Saber from CC sabers (36 inch blade, SN-Pixel V4 Pro). I believe this is just a TXQ saber that is drop shipped from china, but after reading through the buyers guide in the lightsabers reddit, CC sabers seem to be a pretty reputable seller. You could also probably find the same exact saber cheaper on AliExpress. Starkiller1 Weathered Ver Neopixel Saber (36 inch blade, SN-Pixel V4 Pro): https://www.ccsabers.com/products/txq-sk1?variant=43255529504936 Closing Remarks: This build was a lot of fun to work on but also kind of difficult and my first time working with eva foam. I think what some people might underestimate is the amount of tools you either need to have on hand, buy, or rent in order to actually do something like this. My dad had a lot of these tools already so I was able to get away with not having to buy a whole lot. Overall I think it was a good experience and I learned a lot about making costumes from doing this. If you do decide to attempt this build or any other costume I highly recommend you document the process so others can learn from and attempt them. It was not perfect but I hope to improve on the costume in the future, and Iโ€™ll make sure to update this document as I do. Thanks for reading! EVA Foam Materials: 8mm Cosplay Pros High Density Black EVA Foam https://thecosplaypros.com/collections/frontpage/products/eva-foam-sheets?variant=20494372667503 White Paint Marker: https://www.michaels.com/product/sharpie-medium-point-oil-based-paint-marker-10288103 Weldwood Contact Cement: https://www.amazon.com/Weldwood-Contact-Cement-3oz-00107/dp/B000CD7QWK Dremmel 3000: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-3000-1-25-Attachment-Accessories/dp/B00LUJONH6 DAS Air Dry Modelling Clay: https://www.michaels.com/product/das-modeling-clay-M10130210 Black Plastidip: https://www.amazon.com/PLASTI-Mulit-Purpose-Rubber-Coating-Spray/dp/B0093B541M Krylon Silver Metallic Spray Paint: https://www.michaels.com/product/krylon-colormaxx-metallic-paint-primer-10658941 Matte Spray Varnish: https://www.michaels.com/product/krylon-matte-finish-10520205 3D Printing: Monoprice Mini V2: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=34620&srsltid=AfmBOoqV_-z074Ztdr6uh00eaAxYCgQbLKkgX_j0LpKriOjX9RNVwxeR Inland Black PLA 3D Printer Filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YQB85PG Monoprice Mini Glass Bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRK6TZX Rustoleum Black Primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249127-Painters-Touch-Ultra/dp/B0CGM319Z9 Misc Links I Received Inspiration From: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:SL_starkiller_tie_training https://2storyprops.blogspot.com/2010/11/starkiller-armor-and-gauntlet.html?m=1 https://www.thedentedhelmet.com/forums/threads/starkiller-armor-and-gauntlet.11011/ https://www.alanmolina.co.uk/projects/stakiller https://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1629-dutch-starkiller-tie-training-gear-wip/#comment-18493 https://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forums/index.php?/topic/4626-wip-starkiller-tie-training-gear/#comment-40251 starkiller-belt-buckle.20241010-205820.FCBak starkiller-belt-buckle.FCStd starkiller-belt-buckle.stl starkiller-gauntlet.xcf
  11. Hair/Wig So here's a link to a tiktok tutorial on the wig, and the hair artist from the show, Maria Sandoval, commented that the person was incredibly close. I screenshotted the convo for here as well. Also, the chain she wears in the center part is called a fishbone chain. Maria also commented on that, giving the color metal used and that the one they got was from Joann Fabric and not from an Etsy link provided by someone else.
  12. Kataginu-Inspired Vest/Jacket The jacket or vest Morgan wears in Ahsoka seems to be inspired in some ways by Kataginu or Kamishimo. My opinion is that this is more a jacket design than a vest though, because: The sleeve straps are not fully sewn together, particularly in the back, yet do not appear to show any skin underneath. This suggests the undershirt has sleeves as well. The sleeve straps are also clearly made of the same material as the main part of the jacket - Shantung Silk - which is not the same as the undershirt. The shoulder caps under the flare of the shoulder appear to attach to material just under the flares, suggesting the shoulder flares cover a jacket like structure underneath as an accent piece rather than the finished shoulders of a vest. As shown later, the detail trim along the fitted breast meets an underarm seam, and the seam work in general along the side panels attach to a sleeve seam. Thoughts on this and more reference pics would be awesome. The back of the jacket/vest is a strip across the nape of the neck that ends at a top shoulder seam, connecting to the breast lapels that extend down the front. The neck is not covered, the high collar seen is from the shirt. The Lapels extend almost straight down over the chest from the shoulders leaving a wide opening across the chest through which the wrapped undershirt can be seen, until at or just below the bust line, when it angles in to the top of the Obi in a 'V'. The lapels apparently terminate together - probably in a matching V shape - at this connection underneath the Obi, as the portion of the vest/jacket seen under the Obi does not appear to have any such facing delineation as the lapels above - though there is clearly an overlapping closure, so the piece is not sewn together at the base here but wraps and secures under the Obi. The shoulder caps are created by pleating the fabric - likely reinforced with interfacing to help with stiffness - in a pleated, scale-like pattern facing up towards the neck of the wearer, then pinned back down and away towards the shoulder down the center line. Creating a kind of pauldron effect. Below them on the front but not on the back is an angled strip that runs from the lapel to the side panel seam on the bottom and the underarm seam at the top. There is also a dart seam at the bust running back towards the side. The side appears to be constructed of two separate side panels under the arm, front and back. The back seems fairly simple construction in comparison to the front and the sleeves. The sleeves are overlapping strips that give a braided effect, with the detail on the outside of the arm, then sewn to an inner arm seam. It appears they are not sewn entirely together, at least not in the back, as there is clear gapping between the strips from some angles. More front angles that might show if they are more secured in the front would be good to get. Key to construction in this will be to mind the grain of the material on all pieces during construction. For instance the back, front and side panels have the grain running straight up and down, as well as the back panel of the lapel piece. But the shoulders have the grain running perpendicular to that, parallel to the line of the shoulder. The front panels of the Lapels need better detail shots to study, but seem to be cut so that the grain runs as close to up and down as possible to match the front panels, but in places it also looks like they're set at a diagonal - more study needed. The grain on the sleeve straps do not match and appear to be cut randomly. Note that the silk wrapping around Morgan's hands at the base of the sleeves appears more red and a slightly smoother, more lustrous texture. Possibly the sleeves resolve from Shantung to a Habutai or double weight organza at the base there. They also seem more cohesively sewn together starting just above the wrist.
  13. Hakama and Obi. I've seen some discussion in the build groups as to whether or not these are true Hakama or a split skirt. This is based off an image from a fight where you can see her boots and that she is wearing black leggings - she had hiked the Hakama up and tucked it a bit for ease of movement. Images attached. In this same discussion, a friend of Diana Lee's states that she is quoted as calling the pants "Hakama on Steroids" due to the extra pleating in them, and that they are indeed definitely based off Hakama. Another person quoted the Costume Team as saying that the design is also based on Hakama. There is one specific shot taken by Anlenhart and shared in her WIP thread here, which I have added below. This shot makes it clear that these are Hakama, or closely based off of them. That said, traditional Hakama tie with wrap-around ties at the waist, and tend to be slightly open at the hips showing the underlying Kimono/Yukata. As you can see, that is not the case here (Yes, I am using some pictures from the Mandolorean costume for now. These are from Celebration. The Hakama are the same, it was the upper and the Obi that altered for Ahsoka.) You can also see in the Mando version under the Obi that there does appear to be something of a consistent waistband above the pleating. So it seems that as stated, these are "based on" Hakama but very likely do not have the traditional wrap around closure, instead likely having a waist band that secures on the back or side - possibly a zipper with a hook and loop at top. More reference pictures of the sides and of the back of the Obi are needed from Ahsoka. The celebration picture of the Obi is suggestive that it too has a zip closure in the back for ease of wear. The Hakama have 12 pleats in the front - six on each front leg leading to the side - one larger one on each side, and it appears another 12 in the back following the pattern of the front pleats. Black Leggings. Boots appear to be similar to the black Trooper-style ankle boots? A link to a YouTube where someone created their own Hakama Pattern, some may find this useful.
  14. Let's talk Fabric. Attached is a screenshot from a member of the costume design team talking about specifically the fabrics used in the costuming for Morgan. The fabrics for the Hakama and Vest have been found from one vendor so far, and both are Shantung Silk. Quite expensive. It has also been pointed out that the fabric available for the bottoms seems a bit too fuchsia to actually be the fabric used and there has been some discussion around over-dying it to color correct. To date there has been no darker red version of this silk found available online. Anyone who finds more sources, especially one that is a better color match on the bottoms, please do link! Meanwhile, here's the links to what has been found so far: Hakama/Obi: https://nydesignerfabrics.com/products/black-striped-silk-shantung-70-fabric?fbclid=IwY2xjawGPPJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHSNfrBiS407iYBqy_zXMBulR0ubMvGPs4OJYV28Z_jZBH2V4IXa8PAFaWg_aem_a0aNdmYZTc-qrmQ3McEK8g Vest/Jacket: https://nydesignerfabrics.com/products/red-black-silk-shantung-141-7-fabric?_pos=47&_sid=038c4ac68&_ss=r&fbclid=IwY2xjawGPM9VleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHcdvGOhlAFcJyahkbk9e5zoXrqG7_ajDxxYhuZ0g4fNwqSCB20ARlE86Fg_aem_QzGfAE0aB70oxBAm012m2A A specific match to the silk of the undershirt hasn't yet been identified, but it does seem by texture to be a double weight chiffon, georgette or organza. Likely hand dyed and then gathered or rouched in wrapped sections and pinned to an underlying black shell shirt (the collar of which you can see at the neckline), rather than cleanly pleated. The material looks too thin, light and potentially crinkly to be a Habutai or Dupion. And it seems to be too smooth to be a Noil - at least I've never seen a Noil with a weave that tight. When talking about a CRL for this, or honestly any live action build of her, perhaps the specification on fabric for level one and two should be a fabric that mimics the look of the silks used. There are Polys and Blends that mimic silk weaves and there are prints that can look fairly convincing too. This would make the costume more accessible to more cosplayers. Perhaps a level 3 costume could be someone who has been able to save and shell out for the actual silks? Also for consideration is the print on the Hakama/Obi fabric, which is honestly hard to come by as is. I've seen various cosplay answers to creating this look on a black fabric, from hand painting lines to creating a block cut and block printing them. This is likely something we would want to consider and mention in a CRL standard.
  15. I've been researching to start my own build in the New Year, with the goal of getting this approved in the 501st and an official CRL posted. This thread is for discussion of the detailed build around Morgan Elsbeth's Ahsoka Variant costume, from which a CRL might be created down the line. Please feel free to chip in, comment and otherwise discuss. Once I start my own personal build I will track that in a separate thread elsewhere. I've amassed a collection of screenshots, reference pictures, quotes from the Hair Designer and some anecdotal quotes from costumers and Diana Lee Innosanto on aspects of the costume, and materials links - mostly research done by others that they have shared in FaceBook Build Groups. I am going to start this off by curating that information and sharing it here, and then we can add to it. First, here's the links to the two FB Groups around this Build for those interested and for credit: https://www.facebook.com/groups/558593729749052/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/334785905647926/ Some reference pictures to start with (more will be added as needed):
  16. Earlier
  17. It's not really a work-in-process yet, but I want to start this post asap to keep myself on track. Former sisters' posts here are really helpful. Recently I am working on a 7 sis off-duty look for a local convention so some of the pictures here are just tests. Chinese Garrison will have a booth there if nothing else happens, looking forward to get some information directly from them. Questions first: Is it technically possible to make her glasses glide up manually with 3-D print or whatsoever? And what materials do you suggest for the glasses that they are dark but still clear enough to see things. These curves still need repaints but the color looks good. CRL says that heels should be about 2.5 cm/1 inch high, but I also notice that the heels in sample pic are higher than that. So I'm thinking to get something like this boot below, about 4.5-5 cm high, using the red curves and half-chaps to make the heels look like 2.5 cm high, if that's ok. A friend from Garrison suggested me to use Velcro since visible zips are not allowed. I've contact a shoemaker online and they agree to make the half-chaps for me after I got the proper boots. Wasn't sure about the size of these patches when purchasing them, but so far so good. I can use the same patches after the jacket is done. These are the first makeup attempt and the color was a bit greenish (dots are not so accurate either), but I'm improving it. Prefer to cover my eyebrows since mine are thicker than hers. Lightsaber is bought from Ultimate Works. It was pre-ordered a few months ago and I didn't expected to have it before the end of this year. It's a big part of the reason I start this work.
  18. Awesome! I can't wait to see the finished build! OK, I will start a discussion thread in the 'live action shows' area. That will be where we can share and discuss screen shots, detail shots, links to materials, and I have a link to a podcast interview with some of the costume designers from the show, and some quotes from the hair designer and costume team that I can share etc. As well as share our own designs for our builds. That can be the start of a reference from which we can work to build the actual CRL when one is ready to be put together for full addition to FSE and the 501st as an approvable costume. Update to add link to the discussion thread if you're interested:
  19. Thank you! Many of these are still greatly helpful!
  20. With SL-15717 and SL-62023 And for this one : credit goes to Saby Gaga Photography
  21. This was my build thread but I am happy to do a discussion thread. I need to finish the sleeves and makeup.
  22. The units are manually added so it just needs to be updated. I'll try to get to it this week.
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