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Live Action (Kenobi) Grand Inquisitor Build


Trachta
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1 hour ago, Officercato said:

Are you planing to screen print? There are some glossy options. I’m not familiar with urethane though. Does it maintain the flexibility of the fabric?

Screen printing was something I was thinking of doing, possibly instead of using a urethane, maybe a clear and glossy plasti dip?  What were the glossy options that you've seen?

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3 hours ago, Trachta said:

Screen printing was something I was thinking of doing, possibly instead of using a urethane, maybe a clear and glossy plasti dip?  What were the glossy options that you've seen?

Plastisol ink has a more glossy appearance.  Here’s a good write up about it.

 

https://www.screenprinting.com/blogs/news/how-to-achieve-matte-or-glossy-prints
 

 

WHAT MAKES A PRINT LOOK GLOSSY

Glossy prints have a smooth surface where the ink sits on top of the shirt. Light is able to reflect off the ink’s surface, which makes it look more glossy. 

Laying down a heavier ink deposit will also make a print look glossy. The heavy ink deposit will not permit the shirt’s fibers to influence the surface texture of the ink. The smooth, flat surface will be shiny once you pull it out of the dryer.

Athletic apparel typically have a thicker ink deposit. Jerseys, hoodies, etc. usually have sheets of plastisol layered on top of each other. Therefore, athletic apparel is much more shiny compared to other kinds of apparel. 

Pro Tip: Plastisol inks are usually more shiny compared to water-based inks. 

Photo by Lookout Prints.

HOW TO ACTIVELY CREATE A GLOSSY PRINT ON PRESS

Remember, the key to getting a glossy print is keeping the ink on top of the fibers to create a smooth surface.

One way is with printing your base white and using a smoothing screen to get the surface super smooth. Now you can over print the white base, allowing the top colors to be smooth and glossy. Or, you can print-flash-print the colors because the flash will enhance the smoothness of the ink’s surface. Use a smoothing screen to make it even smoother.

LEARN MORE ABOUT SMOOTHING SCREENS

You could also mix in gel gloss to the ink (gel is designed to be glossy and shiny). Or, you could overprint part of the design — or the whole thing — with the gel. 

There's one fact that's important to note about inks that are designated as matte: These inks will be very difficult to create or add a gloss to it since the the ink already has dulling agents/additives in the ink. Try adding gel into the ink and testing what works best for you. You could also try overprinting at the end with a gel gloss.

Photo by Symmetree Clothing.

Pro Tip: When printing on synthetic shirts, it’s easier to create a smooth, flat surface because there are no free fibers poking through. If you’re printing on cotton tees, you’ll have to work harder to achieve a flat surface. 

Another way to achieve the glossy effect is by curing the print at a higher temperature. Excess heat can affect how the inks look. Running with the heat set high will typically cause the ink to sit at a “melt point” for an extended period of time. Sitting in this high temperature can directly cause the ink to become shiny. It's a viable technique, but not all ink will behave this way unfortunately. Some ink types and brands that will bubble or puff when the ink gets too hot. The print may look mottled. Always test inks before running any kind of production and pick the method that works best for you with your equipment within your shop.

Remember the vintage print? It is possible to make a vintage print a little glossy by using a smoothing screen after a flash or an iron. Utilizing one of those tools will set the ink on top of the shirt, making it more glossy. It’ll still be vintage soft. 

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After some discussions with my garrison mates and seamstress, I'm going ahead with this:

Fpy9dTd.jpg

 

It matches perfectly to the Inquisitor fabric in weave and matches the product images in color.  It also matches the fabric without flash in person at Star Wars Celebration.  As a bonus in low-light environments, it appears as below.

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Edited by Trachta
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8 hours ago, jenmcnitt said:

I took several photos also at Celebration.  My album can be found here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/BwTXfs4YRD3PsVf76

Thanks! 

 

I have Identified the Grand Inquisitors' boots.  They are Tuff rider brand Equestrian boots.  they have the same tongue, spur rests, and unique details.  There is a stretch panel in the back of the boots along with a zipper.  I created a collage of my findings below.  These are not standard or ordinary riding/officer boots.  Though I can see officer boots being a basic approval, any higher must use these.  There are some modifications such as the top strap being removed and the Spanish head style at the head of the boots has been removed/cut off so the head of the boot lays straight and flat instead of curved.  Initially, I was puzzled about the use of a stretch panel, but then recalled that we started seeing them on Imperial officer boots in the Mandalorian Season 2. 

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I have test fabric coming in tomorrow, and I just got the 3d print models I commissioned The-Heaven-Studio for!

 

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This is a complete 1:1 digital replica of the costume armor seen at Celebration recreated with over 250+ photos and references used to sculpt it.  Everything is accurate according to photos with the exception of the back plate, the top is accurate but below the box, it's imaginative as we have not seen that yet. 

Edited by Trachta
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Did a test print of the previous iteration last night, came out pretty well for a 13-hour print. 

oK6bceL.jpg

 

Current printing is a bit longer and a tad less wide.  The shoulder parts of the chest need to stick up a little and they can't go over the ball of the shoulder. 

YBTU4lS.jpg

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After some further analysis, I have come to the conclusion that the liner is not a rubber coat or a high-density print but a standard printed fabric on a glossy fabric like a high luster satin.  It's bothering me seeing the crushed-looking sections down below in this picture by the cape corners (I'm assuming it was stepped on a couple of times) and I don't believe something other than flat printed fabric will behave like that and still obtain its original design.  The same can be said for Reva's fabric, the one that looks like chain mail.  Look at the gloves and how the curve over her knuckles, it's very smooth and doesn't stick out at all, it's probably a 3d effect 2d image screen print fabric.

r26hHeD.jpg

Edited by Trachta
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I think I found at least the right color for the fabric, the fabric sample I got recently itself looks quite nice. 

 

This is the fabric under standard lighting.

ss4I7L8.jpg

 

This is edited with a bright blue lights filter, to mimic the bright blue lights of the Volkswagon booth.  (used on the red carpet to prevent it from being too bright like orange or white lights would do.)

4vcVXux.jpg

 

The color is a dead match.

 

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On 6/8/2022 at 9:51 PM, Trachta said:

After some further analysis, I have come to the conclusion that the liner is not a rubber coat or a high-density print but a standard printed fabric on a glossy fabric like a high luster satin.  It's bothering me seeing the crushed-looking sections down below in this picture by the cape corners (I'm assuming it was stepped on a couple of times) and I don't believe something other than flat printed fabric will behave like that and still obtain its original design.  The same can be said for Reva's fabric, the one that looks like chain mail.  Look at the gloves and how the curve over her knuckles, it's very smooth and doesn't stick out at all, it's probably a 3d effect 2d image screen print fabric.

r26hHeD.jpg

 

I have some extremely close detailed shots on Reva’s costume and there is a slight raise to the pattern. It isn’t much but it’s there. That can still account for low spots though. I think that is a good argument for having the pieces printed after cutting the fabric. I’m wondering though if it will be allowed to use just regular printing  for approval? High Density printing isn’t the cheapest thing. For your cape maybe it’s more like embossed silk? 

Edited by Officercato
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I have the Chest, back plate, and forearms fully printed.  With 3/4 thigh pieces printed.  Still need to print the shoulders and belt pieces.  

 

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I've been post-processing the completed prints tonight. I believe one more go with some sanding should be good for the back and forearms.  I'm thinking of more bondo on the chest plate. 

 

I also got word that the silicone mask I commissioned is being shipped soon.

hBadyZr.jpg

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Big Update:

 

My mask came in and it is gorgeous! 

qzulBQn.jpg

 

I also have the armor finally smooth and ready to paint in a satin black.

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The soft parts are being worked on now, pleats for the sleeves were just finished recently and were a nightmare to do, the Kylo Ren costumers were right on how bad those were to sew lol. 

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Been getting paint applications applied.  I've been using a sponge paint technique to get that texture on the armor as seen on the mannequin at Celebration. 
u2PsThi.jpg
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I’m late to this but it’s looking good. This texture could also be done after the armor is painted smoothly using a sponge and Elmer’s glue. Gives it a grimey battlefront 2 look and can be taken off or layered up easily.


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So I have been experimenting with rubber armor.  I think I have the mixture just right and I have a casting made of the chest plate already.  I'm going to be making castings of the armor pieces as well.  The rubber I'm using has a shore hardness of 90. 

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Progress on the pants. Pin tucks are added, reinforced side seams and reinforced crotch as seen in reference images.  Still need to add the waist band.  I also have the sleeve pleats finished and ready to turn into actual sleeves.

 

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