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L Kamino

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Everything posted by L Kamino

  1. I use the Velcro system as well to secure the hood and wrap in place. I attached Velcro to small squares of fabric and tacked the fabric facing outward so it meets the other half of the Velcro inside my chest armor. I have photos of what I did for mine if you need it. I changed the capelet attachment so that the straps reach up from inside the front chest armor and attach to the capelet instead of the other way around. I shortened the capelet straps and attached D rings that I feed the long straps from the armor through. I added Velcro to the backside of the straps to give me an extra securing. I created a thread for the capelet but I'm having trouble pasting the link here. It's "Becoming Darth Revan Part VI: Connecting the Cape Straps. I wonder if you're having a problem with the ribbing because it's sitting too low?
  2. I stitched Velcro onto strips of fabric and tacked the fabrics onto the backside of the sash. (I had to reinforce the foam with fabric to hold the stitch.) Now I can fold it over the bar when I'm getting ready. It holds well because I used the industrial strength. Just had to determine how much to fold so it hung in the right place.
  3. I had Mozilla Firefox crash, and am stuck using Explorer, and can't paste links in here either now, but I could with Firefox. Your link works if I'm logged into Facebook first.
  4. Looking really awesome! Great sheen on the armor in those photos. One thing to watch for is that your red sash stays behind the large O ring. I've learned that even after placing mine carefully behind it, walking, posing and kneeling caused the sash to bounce and slip in front. It took me a bit to figure that out. I'm going to stitch the black and red together to prevent it from moving. Love your Revan!
  5. I was very happy with using a mixture of black and silver metallic acrylic paints, sponge-painted on the leather. I had to play around with the mix a bit.
  6. The hood is a definite struggle. That lovely fabric loves to slip and untuck. Many people pin the fabric in place to the piece of vinyl that is secured to the top of the front armor by the strap and tucking the excess fabric. Before I put it on my hood, I fold over the edge of the top part that wraps in front back and downward in a triangle to hold at the bottom hem, secured with a fabric clip. Could be pinned, but I plan to stitch it there and my fabric clip holds it good and prevents tearing. I stitched sew-on industrial strength Velcro onto the bottom part of the hood fabric facing outward. Those ends secure to sticky-back industrial strength Velcro that I placed inside the chest armor. (To get the placement, I wrapped the hood fabric around my shoulder like a shawl to get the fit. I hold the cowl in place by wearing a ball cap for the top to rest on so I can see. Where the ends meet comfortably and with my pleats in the right place, I determined where to put the sew-on Velcro.) Lastly, I stitched a short piece of small band elastic with a small loop on the end to the hem where the cowl meets the wrap. This reaches down and slips over a button I stitched to that piece of vinyl on the inside instead of pinning. This holds my hood in place but gives me a little bit of room for the elastic to pull when I'm posing, etc. Because I pulled my fabric over and clipped it, there's not a huge excess to tuck. No more safety pins. This setup is very good, as I can just shrug my shoulders out a bit and feel that my pleats are in place. I've found that I don't untuck anymore and I have a good fit. If you're interested in more on this, I have photos.
  7. I bought my Revan from My Wicked Armor as well. The photo in the costume standards is of the artist who makes them in his Revan. I also bought the undermask that he offers, which I highly recommend for comfort and help with air flow. Lots of help here for you about costuming Revan, and specifically regarding modifications you might like if you buy the one from My Wicked Armor. Welcome, and good luck! It's a great character to costume. Worth all of the effort.
  8. Well, that's good. I need to clear coat my touch up paint spots I did with the paint from Rob. It's barely noticeable right now, but dry, without clear coat looks a little powdery. Keep that in mind when you mix again...do tests with and without the clear enamel coat to get a match. After trying a few things, I found a good method for the hood. It was driving me crazy, coming untucked and fabric slipping around. I need to post a thread for it, but I put the armor on. I put the hood on (wearing a ball cap so the hood rests on that so I can see!) and wrapped the bottom of it around my shoulders like a shawl, and measured where the bottom ends meet in the center of my chest. I then stitched Velcro along the bottom facing outward (reinforcing it with some cotton fabric) so the Velcro sticks to stick-on Velcro I put inside the chest armor. I may trim the upper portion of the end pieces of the hood so there's less to tuck, but for now I fold the top end part of the hood downward at an angle to meet the bottom of the hood fabric and clip it in place with a fabric clip. It can be pinned too. I do this before securing the Velcro to the inside of the chest armor so I can still reach everything. It holds well, and once the Velcro part is attached, I have a nice semi-snug fit with the pleats. And if I shrug my shoulders a slight amount, I can feel that nothing has slipped while I troop. I also am trying out an attachment from the corner of the hood, where the seam is at the cowl part. I sewed a short piece of black elastic with a loop on the end there. That part wraps around and loops over a button I sewed to vinyl attached to the top part inside the chest armor (where Rob indicates on the instructions you can pin the fabric.) I used the little piece of Velcro he provided. I had to reposition it once to get a proper look, and it didn't mark the paint at all. I'm having trouble posting photos in here with my browser, but will post a thread with photos about the hood fix. I'm very happy with it, and I don't have to use safety pins anymore.
  9. Did you get some help with that? Did your brown and copper mix contain metallic paint?
  10. I'd be interested to see that, so share pics! And using sponges to paint would probably work nice. That's what I did with my belt.
  11. The paint I used to sponge paint my belt is available at fabric stores, such as Jo Ann Fabrics and Michael's, in stores or online. You will probably need to blend a couple of colors. I used DecoArt Dazzling Metallics Acrylic Paint and Folk Art Shimmering Metallics Acrylic Paint for the leather. You might message Rejean as well. He did some painting too. I like the battle damage idea as well!
  12. I scratched one of mine as well and need to touch up the paint. It's my left one and I think I hit my chest armor with it too many times. I actually bought a bit of the touch up paint from Rob when I bought mine.
  13. I tried out the fashion clips, but found they would need to be secured to the armor or one of the straps. I'm pondering a system to secure them. I do want to use them. In the meantime I'm stitching small pieces of Velcro instead to see if I like that better. I'm stitching the small pieces of Velcro onto fabric that can then be tacked with a few stitches onto the hood. That way, I can easily change out the fabric pieces that have the Velcro and not tear up my hood fabric. I'm going to try a bit of Velcro attached to the inside of the armor in the center of the chest so that the bottom end of the pleated wrap fabric can be secured there, holding my pleats. I am also going to try putting attach points to the underside of the hood hem where the hood and the wrap meet and front most, with another point to hold the upper part of the pleat wrap that will tuck. If I like this, I'll share photos.
  14. Awesome! One thing I didn't consider was the texture of the leather. After I picked up my straps, I was concerned that the leather might be too soft and stretch out with the weight of the new rings. My new rings are a bit heavy. But they haven't stretched. And I had mine made with Velcro stitched to the back where I needed it. And you can get a test swatch and get your mix right on the paint.
  15. I went to a saddle maker for the leather. He had tons of different textured leathers and I had him make my straps. I haven't painted pleather, but my straps were sponge-painted with a mixture of Folk Art Metallic Sequin Black and Decoart Dazzling Metallics Shimmering Silver. This link for my thread shows the paints I used: http://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1756-becoming-darth-revan-a-womans-perspective-part-ii-the-belt-straps/ Since I was working on the belt straps anyway, I replaced the rings with nickel finish O rings that have an open gate, easy to remove to put the rings through the leather.
  16. Thanks, Rejean. It is a bit of work to make the change, but will save tons of time and effort dressing at troops. One thing about using the D rings-the ones I bought are a smidgen too big, so the strap can slip a bit when feeding through. I will be changing those to a smaller size, but what I have will work for now.
  17. Myself, I want to get away from just using the pins so I can protect the fabric. I plan to sew some small black snaps in place where the fabric meets in the center and on the sides. I will also attach short straps to the spot where you have yours pinned and have suspender clips on the end that can hold the snapped fabric in place where it needs to tuck. Rejean also has a good method for his pinning and tucking.
  18. I posted an earlier thread regarding my modification to how the capelet straps attach to the front armor of my Darth Revan. I described changing the attachment so the capelet straps reach up out of the armor to feed through D rings attached to the capelet. This made it a lot easier to put on the capelet without help. I wanted to share additional images but was unable to add them in a reply to this earlier post: http://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1779-becoming-darth-revan-a-womans-perspective-part-vi-connecting-the-cape-straps/ I tried this out on a troop and it was much easier. One could use snaps to hold the straps after they feed through the D rings, but I wanted the option of adjusting the height of the capelet when needed in case of wet pavement, grass, etc. or if I change boots or change armor fit. I wanted to add a stopper to prevent the capelet from loosening and lowering, but would still allow for me to easily raise the capelet. I put on the armor and attached the capelet. With help, I measured how much strap length was fed through. I then checked that measurement with the armor and capelet off to determine my stitch point for the stopper. Like in this belt example, I wanted to feed the straps so they were hidden and so the stoppers were against my body instead of facing out. I chose mushroom domed buttons that were small enough to fit through the D rings on the first feed-through, but would act as a stopper after the strap was fed through in place. I will black the chrome finish out on these: When I put the armor on, I make sure the straps are hanging outside of the front armor. I can reach up and grab the D rings to feed the straps. After feeding the straps through, I pull them forward to be hidden under the hood tuck. The mushroom buttons prevent the straps from loosening. I can also periodically check my fit without a mirror by feeling how close the buttons are to the D rings. I can also make quick adjustments to raise the capelet when needed without a mirror by measuring a finger width or two by feel.
  19. I'm implementing a system with the hood so I don't have to sew anything. I bought two of these fabric clips, one with black elastic instead of white. They're designed to gather a shirt at the back. The clasps are rubber and won't tear the fabric. I'm going to use the black one to hold where I want the hood to gather at mid-chest under the armor. I'm going to remove the elastic on the other one so I can just use the clips, one on each shoulder side where I want the outside edges of the hood to stay in place under the armor. I can pre-clip them where I want them and reach under the armor to hook them where I want them clipped in place on the other part of the fabric. Hope that makes sense. No sewing or gluing. The hooks can easily be readjusted and additional elastic can be added for length, though I don't need this myself.
  20. I bought the Deluxe Darth Revan from My Wicked Armor. The red vertical drape or sash is designed to fold over and pin in place at the proper length. I store my black and red sashes hanging with my other soft cloths, so I wanted a method to attach the fold to the back of the sash that didn't need to be re-pinned and that was still adjustable, and not have to pin the edge of the black sash each time. RED SASH I attached sew-on Velcro to two narrow strips of pre-shrunk cotton, a bit narrower than the width of the red sash. I stitched a small square of cotton to the inside and outside of the foam, as I was able to reach my hand inside the opening. This gave me a mid-point for support and I tacked one strip across the underside of the sash where the top of the fabric would fold over to meet the Velcro. I tacked it at this midpoint and at the edges, stitching to the folded hem of the red fabric and not to the foam. The foam would not be strong enough (as I learned from an earlier method of a button and loop elastic that failed.) I tacked the other strip along the top of the red sash, tucking the open ends of the fabric over. Tacking the fabric pieces on instead of sewing the Velcro directly helps protect the fabric when it comes time to replace the Velcro. I'm then removing the tack and not the entire stitch from my red fabric. BLACK SASH After finding my measurement, I folded the end of the black sash inward towards the seam to achieve the tapering of the other end. I stitched the point in place, and tacked the folds in place. I then stitched sew-on Velcro in place to match the other end of the sash. No more pins. I kept dropping them at troops anyway! Sorry no photos. Unable to post them here since Mozilla Firefox crashed and I'm stuck with Explorer. http://mywickedarmor.com/
  21. I have the Deluxe Revan from Rob at My Wicked Armor. I didn't experience any delays when I ordered but that was in the winter. Keep trying. He does a great job on the paint!.
  22. I just posted them on a new topic. I don't have a pic yet of my armor on with the new cape system, but the rings are hidden.
  23. I purchased the Deluxe Revan from My Wicked Armor. The cape has long straps attached that are designed to tie to loops that are attached to the inside of the front armor. I made a modification to allow me to dress without help and connect the straps more easily. I wanted to have straps connected to the inside of the armor that reach up to attach to the cape instead. I wanted to utilize D rings, such as with this fabric belt, with the D rings attached to short straps on the top of the cape: I found I had this bag stashed in the closet with a strap the same width and similar look as the cape straps. It also had swivel hooks attached to the ends, which saved me some sewing. The strap had 43" of length, which was plenty for my two new straps. I cut it in half, giving me two straps, each one having a swivel hook. NOTE: webbed straps need to either be cut with a hot knife or sealed with a flame across the cut to protect the strap from fraying. A moment near the flame is enough, and too much can pull the strap out of shape. I connected the swivels to the loops inside the front armor piece. If I didn't use swivels, the strap would have been attached to an O ring and stitched in place. I purchased Dritz 3/4" D rings to attach to the cape. (I forgot to get a photo with the D rings still in the package.) I attached the D rings to the cape straps and prepared to measure length and sew. I measured 1" away from the edge of the cape and pinned the straps in place, then hand-stitched to secure them. I did not trim them, in case I need to adjust the length. After stitching, here's the inside view. The length can be hidden inside the cape, trimmed or pinned to obscure. Here's the outside view: I leave the long straps connecting to the loops inside the front armor draped over the front armor when I put it on. That way, the straps are easy to lift up and feed through the D rings. I can put my cape on without help now, and could connect it without looking. I can easily adjust the length as needed if I get different boots. http://mywickedarmor.com/ http://www.eddiebauer.com/ http://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/sewing/fasteners/rings/117-34-1/#sthash.Z68FfuSn.dpbs
  24. I actually just did a change to my cape a few days ago. I attached straps with swivel hooks to the canvas loops on the inside of the front armor. I inserted two D rings to the straps that are on the cape at about an inch away from the hem. Now, I can pull the straps from the inside up to feed through D rings and not have to reach inside to tie. i leave the straps hanging out of the front of the armor so they're ready to go. I have pics that I'll post. Makes it much easier to connect the cape and I can do it without help-and without looking now. Will post the pics on another thread.
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