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Everything posted by Officercato

  1. Thanks! My friend that took the pictures said the same so I’ll consider that confirmed.
  2. The high density printing is done in layers with flash heating between passes. I’ve been piecing together process bit by bit. People are so closed lipped about it.
  3. The shaft will be covered. The Reva boot shaft has a wrap around piece of leather. The seam would be hidden. I don’t plan to use any boots I find “as is”.
  4. These might work. Would need to cut down the shaft and the toe isn’t as round as the Harley boots. https://www.medievalcollectibles.com/product/prescott-jackboots/
  5. Yikes, that would be pricey. I work for a shoe company (and I make prototype shoes) If push comes to shove I’ll make them myself, but if I can avoid that I will.
  6. Shoes are the worst part of replicating these costumes.
  7. I’ll put those boots here just in case, but they don’t come in sizes small enough. An 8 might work but shoe sizing can be a little arbitrary. I’d prefer not to have to get overly large boots. Even stuffing them is uncomfortable. I’ll keep an eye out for when they are back in stock.
  8. Boots are tough since they are subject to style change. I am searching for the following criteria: low heel, rubber outsole, round toe, below knee shaft (preferable without a zipper, but I think I can work around one). The Reva boots may have been men’s boots to start as a toe that round isn’t a normal woman’s fashion. I found a few that are men’s motorcycle boots that might work. What do you think? https://www.vagabond.com/us/kenova-5241-701-20/ ($265) https://www.bootbarn.com/harley-davidson-mens-jason-steel-toe-boots/038999.html?dwvar_038999_color=7018#start=16 ($184) If I had to choose one of these I’d go with the Harley boots. The outsole is smooth like Revas’ and the heel is lower. They are also cheaper.
  9. Been busy moving to a new house. The hard part is done so now it’s just unpacking. Hopefully I can start working on this soon. I purchased these .stl files from Cults3d as reference for the armor. Not sure I will print them out though. Several of the parts would need to be modified for accuracy and just so they can be worn. But it’s good to have them if I need them.
  10. On the bright side it won’t cost someone hundreds of dollars and months of searching to have them. I think the boots match the rough edges of her armor and I think it’s interesting to watch her story unfold and understand why it’s not as finished looking as the others.
  11. It was really hard to see the underside of the cape. I haven’t seen the episode yet, but I’ll watch for it
  12. Plastisol ink has a more glossy appearance. Here’s a good write up about it. https://www.screenprinting.com/blogs/news/how-to-achieve-matte-or-glossy-prints WHAT MAKES A PRINT LOOK GLOSSY Glossy prints have a smooth surface where the ink sits on top of the shirt. Light is able to reflect off the ink’s surface, which makes it look more glossy. Laying down a heavier ink deposit will also make a print look glossy. The heavy ink deposit will not permit the shirt’s fibers to influence the surface texture of the ink. The smooth, flat surface will be shiny once you pull it out of the dryer. Athletic apparel typically have a thicker ink deposit. Jerseys, hoodies, etc. usually have sheets of plastisol layered on top of each other. Therefore, athletic apparel is much more shiny compared to other kinds of apparel. Pro Tip: Plastisol inks are usually more shiny compared to water-based inks. Photo by Lookout Prints. HOW TO ACTIVELY CREATE A GLOSSY PRINT ON PRESS Remember, the key to getting a glossy print is keeping the ink on top of the fibers to create a smooth surface. One way is with printing your base white and using a smoothing screen to get the surface super smooth. Now you can over print the white base, allowing the top colors to be smooth and glossy. Or, you can print-flash-print the colors because the flash will enhance the smoothness of the ink’s surface. Use a smoothing screen to make it even smoother. LEARN MORE ABOUT SMOOTHING SCREENS You could also mix in gel gloss to the ink (gel is designed to be glossy and shiny). Or, you could overprint part of the design — or the whole thing — with the gel. There's one fact that's important to note about inks that are designated as matte: These inks will be very difficult to create or add a gloss to it since the the ink already has dulling agents/additives in the ink. Try adding gel into the ink and testing what works best for you. You could also try overprinting at the end with a gel gloss. Photo by Symmetree Clothing. Pro Tip: When printing on synthetic shirts, it’s easier to create a smooth, flat surface because there are no free fibers poking through. If you’re printing on cotton tees, you’ll have to work harder to achieve a flat surface. Another way to achieve the glossy effect is by curing the print at a higher temperature. Excess heat can affect how the inks look. Running with the heat set high will typically cause the ink to sit at a “melt point” for an extended period of time. Sitting in this high temperature can directly cause the ink to become shiny. It's a viable technique, but not all ink will behave this way unfortunately. Some ink types and brands that will bubble or puff when the ink gets too hot. The print may look mottled. Always test inks before running any kind of production and pick the method that works best for you with your equipment within your shop. Remember the vintage print? It is possible to make a vintage print a little glossy by using a smoothing screen after a flash or an iron. Utilizing one of those tools will set the ink on top of the shirt, making it more glossy. It’ll still be vintage soft.
  13. Are you planing to screen print? There are some glossy options. I’m not familiar with urethane though. Does it maintain the flexibility of the fabric?
  14. Oh good! I felt guilty that I didn’t ask my friend to take some for you. So looks like you’ll be printing too.
  15. These aren’t the best photos. There is a lot of glare, but hoping these help you.
  16. Did you see any close up shots of the costume at Celebration?
  17. Been looking at patterns for the body suit and gloves. I’ll need to pattern out the tunic and armor, but using these will save me some time. https://www.etsy.com/listing/719618406/catsuit-with-long-sleeve-and-front?click_key=10a721462ffe9f9d1fad91f975a5d974a7dbc6b1%3A719618406&click_sum=fa45f68a&ref=user_profile The bodysuit looked more suitable for this costume. I’ll put the zipper in the back. My idea is to make bodysuit without sleeves and make the tunic with sleeves separately. I’m thinking there might be Velcro under that center front seem or a hidden zipper. https://www.etsy.com/listing/900057064/leather-hand-gloves-template-printable?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=glove+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-29&pro=1&organic_search_click=1 The gloves are pretty straight forward. I’ll need to add another seam since it will be made in two colors.
  18. Found these boots on Aliexpress. They are almost perfect! I’ll be adding parts to the shaft to make it look like the boots Reva wears, but this is a great foundation and the price is reasonable. I’ll be documenting this build as much as possible for anyone else that wants to do it (Im also open to discussion and debate on my choices. Im easily persuaded by clear logic). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255800015026725.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
  19. Officercato

    Officercato album

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