Ahsoka Morgan Elsbeth Build Discussion Thread

[Salticid]

I've been researching to start my own build in the New Year, with the goal of getting this approved in the 501st and an official CRL posted. 

This thread is for discussion of the detailed build around Morgan Elsbeth's Ahsoka Variant costume, from which a CRL might be created down the line. 

Please feel free to chip in, comment and otherwise discuss.

 

Once I start my own personal build I will track that in a separate thread elsewhere.

 

I've amassed a collection of screenshots, reference pictures, quotes from the Hair Designer and some anecdotal quotes from costumers and Diana Lee Innosanto on aspects of the costume, and materials links - mostly research done by others that they have shared in FaceBook Build Groups.  I am going to start this off by curating that information and sharing it here, and then we can add to it.

First, here's the links to the two FB Groups around this Build for those interested and for credit:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/558593729749052/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/334785905647926/

Some reference pictures to start with (more will be added as needed):
 

 

[Salticid]

Let's talk Fabric.

Attached is a screenshot from a member of the costume design team talking about specifically the fabrics used in the costuming for Morgan.

 

The fabrics for the Hakama and Vest have been found from one vendor so far, and both are Shantung Silk.  Quite expensive.
It has also been pointed out that the fabric available for the bottoms seems a bit too fuchsia to actually be the fabric used and there has been some discussion around over-dying it to color correct.
To date there has been no darker red version of this silk found available online.  Anyone who finds more sources, especially one that is a better color match on the bottoms, please do link!

Meanwhile, here's the links to what has been found so far:
 

Hakama/Obi:

https://nydesignerfabrics.com/products/black-striped-silk-shantung-70-fabric?fbclid=IwY2xjawGPPJxleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHSNfrBiS407iYBqy_zXMBulR0ubMvGPs4OJYV28Z_jZBH2V4IXa8PAFaWg_aem_a0aNdmYZTc-qrmQ3McEK8g

 

Vest/Jacket:

https://nydesignerfabrics.com/products/red-black-silk-shantung-141-7-fabric?_pos=47&_sid=038c4ac68&_ss=r&fbclid=IwY2xjawGPM9VleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHcdvGOhlAFcJyahkbk9e5zoXrqG7_ajDxxYhuZ0g4fNwqSCB20ARlE86Fg_aem_QzGfAE0aB70oxBAm012m2A

 

A specific match to the silk of the undershirt hasn't yet been identified, but it does seem by texture to be a double weight chiffon, georgette or organza.  Likely hand dyed and then gathered or rouched in wrapped sections and pinned to an underlying black shell shirt (the collar of which you can see at the neckline), rather than cleanly pleated.  The material looks too thin, light and potentially crinkly to be a Habutai or Dupion.  And it seems to be too smooth to be a Noil - at least I've never seen a Noil with a weave that tight.

 

When talking about a CRL for this, or honestly any live action build of her, perhaps the specification on fabric for level one and two should be a fabric that mimics the look of the silks used.  There are Polys and Blends that mimic silk weaves and there are prints that can look fairly convincing too.  This would make the costume more accessible to more cosplayers. 

Perhaps a level 3 costume could be someone who has been able to save and shell out for the actual silks?

Also for consideration is the print on the Hakama/Obi fabric, which is honestly hard to come by as is.  I've seen various cosplay answers to creating this look on a black fabric, from hand painting lines to creating a block cut and block printing them.  This is likely something we would want to consider and mention in a CRL standard.

[Salticid]

Hakama and Obi.

 

I've seen some discussion in the build groups as to whether or not these are true Hakama or a split skirt.

This is based off an image from a fight where you can see her boots and that she is wearing black leggings - she had hiked the Hakama up and tucked it a bit for ease of movement. Images attached.

 

In this same discussion, a friend of Diana Lee's states that she is quoted as calling the pants "Hakama on Steroids" due to the extra pleating in them, and that they are indeed definitely based off Hakama.

Another person quoted the Costume Team as saying that the design is also based on Hakama.

 

There is one specific shot taken by Anlenhart and shared in her WIP thread here, which I have added below.  This shot makes it clear that these are Hakama, or closely based off of them.

That said, traditional Hakama tie with wrap-around ties at the waist, and tend to be slightly open at the hips showing the underlying Kimono/Yukata.  As you can see, that is not the case here (Yes, I am using some pictures from the Mandolorean costume for now.  These are from Celebration.  The Hakama are the same, it was the upper and the Obi that altered for Ahsoka.)
You can also see in the Mando version under the Obi that there does appear to be something of a consistent waistband above the pleating.  So it seems that as stated, these are "based on" Hakama but very likely do not have the traditional wrap around closure, instead likely having a waist band that secures on the back or side - possibly a zipper with a hook and loop at top.

More reference pictures of the sides and of the back of the Obi are needed from Ahsoka.

The celebration picture of the Obi is suggestive that it too has a zip closure in the back for ease of wear.

 

The Hakama have 12 pleats in the front - six on each front leg leading to the side - one larger one on each side, and it appears another 12 in the back following the pattern of the front pleats.

Black Leggings.

Boots appear to be similar to the black Trooper-style ankle boots?

 

A link to a YouTube where someone created their own Hakama Pattern, some may find this useful.

 

 

Edited October 30, 2024 by Salticid

[Salticid]

Kataginu-Inspired Vest/Jacket

 

The jacket or vest Morgan wears in Ahsoka seems to be inspired in some ways by Kataginu or Kamishimo.

 

My opinion is that this is more a jacket design than a vest though, because:

• The sleeve straps are not fully sewn together, particularly in the back, yet do not appear to show any skin underneath.  This suggests the undershirt has sleeves as well. 
• The sleeve straps are also clearly made of the same material as the main part of the jacket - Shantung Silk - which is not the same as the undershirt.
• The shoulder caps under the flare of the shoulder appear to attach to material just under the flares, suggesting the shoulder flares cover a jacket like structure underneath as an accent piece rather than the finished shoulders of a vest.
• As shown later, the detail trim along the fitted breast meets an underarm seam, and the seam work in general along the side panels attach to a sleeve seam.

Thoughts on this and more reference pics would be awesome.

 

The back of the jacket/vest is a strip across the nape of the neck that ends at a top shoulder seam, connecting to the breast lapels that extend down the front.  The neck is not covered, the high collar seen is from the shirt.
The Lapels extend almost straight down over the chest from the shoulders leaving a wide opening across the chest through which the wrapped undershirt can be seen, until at or just below the bust line, when it angles in to the top of the Obi in a 'V'.

The lapels apparently terminate together - probably in a matching V shape -  at this connection underneath the Obi, as the portion of the vest/jacket seen under the Obi does not appear to have any such facing delineation as the lapels above - though there is clearly an overlapping closure, so the piece is not sewn together at the base here but wraps and secures under the Obi.

 

The shoulder caps are created by pleating the fabric - likely reinforced with interfacing to help with stiffness - in a pleated, scale-like pattern facing up towards the neck of the wearer, then pinned back down and away towards the shoulder down the center line.  Creating a kind of pauldron effect.

 

Below them on the front but not on the back is an angled strip that runs from the lapel to the side panel seam on the bottom and the underarm seam at the top.  There is also a dart seam at the bust running back towards the side.
The side appears to be constructed of two separate side panels under the arm, front and back.

The back seems fairly simple construction in comparison to the front and the sleeves.

 

The sleeves are overlapping strips that give a braided effect, with the detail on the outside of the arm, then sewn to an inner arm seam.  It appears they are not sewn entirely together, at least not in the back, as there is clear gapping between the strips from some angles.  More front angles that might show if they are more secured in the front would be good to get.

 

Key to construction in this will be to mind the grain of the material on all pieces during construction.  For instance the back, front and side panels have the grain running straight up and down, as well as the back panel of the lapel piece.
But the shoulders have the grain running perpendicular to that, parallel to the line of the shoulder. 

The front panels of the Lapels need better detail shots to study, but seem to be cut so that the grain runs as close to up and down as possible to match the front panels, but in places it also looks like they're set at a diagonal - more study needed. 

The grain on the sleeve straps do not match and appear to be cut randomly.

 

Note that the silk wrapping around Morgan's hands at the base of the sleeves appears more red and a slightly smoother, more lustrous texture.  Possibly the sleeves resolve from Shantung to a Habutai or double weight organza  at the base there.  They also seem more cohesively sewn together starting just above the wrist.

 

Edited October 30, 2024 by Salticid

[Salticid]

Hair/Wig

 

So here's a link to a tiktok tutorial on the wig, and the hair artist from the show, Maria Sandoval, commented that the person was incredibly close.  I screenshotted the convo for here as well.

 

 

 

Also, the chain she wears in the center part is called a fishbone chain.

Maria also commented on that, giving the color metal used and that the one they got was from Joann Fabric and not from an Etsy link provided by someone else.

[Salticid]

I have some progress to report and should probably start a WIP thread soon but wanted to make an update here regarding the fabrics linked above for this Costume.
That is the only place that makes this fabric in this print, as far as I can tell.  I have looked, I cannot find it anywhere else.

Short of finding a replacement Slub Weave fabric and hand dying/painting it to have this pattern - which is quite difficult and requires block print to do correctly - there is just the one place to buy it, and they don't just purchase it from a reseller but they have it woven in lots of 100 yards at a time.

 

I just finished my miniature mock of the Hakama and am starting on my Muslin mock-up at full size.  One of my other builds has been delayed by several months, so I decided now was the time to finally buy the Hakama fabric.

The store was sold out.  

I called them to see if they were getting more made and was told no, it doesn't sell well so they had no plans to restock it.  BUT, they could have more made if I could commit to buying a certain amount.

So I bit the bullet and did it, because at the moment I can and I am committed to this build.

 

Anyway, this is all to say, in 8 - 10 weeks the store will have more of this fabric in stock.

At least 3 of Elsbeth's variants use this fabric.

If you are trying to do a build for her and you want to get it approved - perhaps help build a CRL?  You might not want to wait to buy it, once it's back.
I will also have far more than I need and am willing to help people out once I have my own pattern cut and sewn, so feel free to message.

 

More on my own progress, and perhaps the start of my WIP thread soon.

 

[Salticid]

The fabric just came in and it is GORGEOUS!  And perfect!
And now, the link given above has a bunch in stock, so get it while you can.
I may also have extra, since I did have to order a lot to get them to make more, but I want to make sure I have a finished product before putting any out to offer.  If I mess up badly while  constructing, I will need some of the extra.  Also I may want to try doing the Mandolorian variant at some point, which requires more of this fabric in the top.  And someone else in my Garrison has asked me to make a set of Hakama for her when I'm done with mine, so fingers crossed everything comes out well.
If after all that I do have more I will put it on offer.
I'm currently padding out and slip-covering my Dress Form, and I'm working on a Jawa and a Disney Bounding costume in the interim.  I'm also going to be traveling soon, which will then keep me from making any sewing progress.
But I will start my WIP thread with some of the analysis and design I've been doing sometime while I'm traveling, and then when I'm back and can start sewing I will be working on it in ernest!