Volund Starfire

BODYSUIT The bodysuit is one of the most complex pieces. It appears to have the base of a long sleeve dancing leotard or a spandex catsuit. It is possible to have one which zips up the back. It is recommended to also include stirrups and hand bands to keep it from bunching. Now for the fun part? A thick metallic colored elastic cord should be used to make the circuitry pattern. I would suggest beginning at the knees of the suit and extending it up the body to the right arm and down the left arm to the middle of the forearm. It should go on both the front and the back. The amount can be sparse or very intricate, depending on the source and the amount of detail you with to use. The coloring should be silver with a possible touch of purple. To connect the cord you should either sew them on or use fabric staples. They should be put on at angles and should run together at points. For ultimate accuracy, you could also attack small blocks of plastic in silver and purple at random areas. Keep these sparse and be sure they are level with the floor when the costume is worn. BOOTS Now is when it gets fun. For most of the armor parts, you will need to purchase two silver latex or PVC full body suit with integrated boots and gloves. These can be found on ebay, amazon, or fetish supply sites. Make sure you get one that fits and one that is a size larger. For now, you?ll use the one that fits. For the boots, you will want to mark off and cut from the middle of the thigh on the inside to about the navel on the outside. You should cut it a little more on the outside and use that to seal over the flap. However, wait to seal over the flap for now. Try to get the boot as close to your reference/desired shape as possible, but do not forget the flap. Also, save the inside of the leg part? you will need some of it in a moment. Using a stiffening piece (interfacing or other material), put it in the top portion of the boot. Over this stiffener, place a piece of the cut boot to hide it. Not fold over the edge flap and secure it so that it is stronger around the edges. Finally, you will need to secure a pair of shoe soles onto the bottom of the boots. Before you secure them, though, paint them silver. While it may not take on the bottom of the sole (I would say tape the main part of the bottom) the sides are important. The soles should be flat soles and not very noticeable. You can connect them using any method you wish, but I would suggest sewing them on. BELT The belt is actually a series of geometric shapes connected by one or two bars. The buckle is a solid block and could be a snap-hook or other square pressure buckle. Alternatively, the buckle could actually be on the back? in any case, the central item is a cube. The ?buckle? is connected directly to two triangular pieces by the tip of the triangle. Those have two bands which connect to trapezoidal boxes over the boots. These trapezoids are connected to a square block with a single cord. These are connected to another set of rectangular pieces by a single cord. Each of the boxes, except for the buckle on the front, has a recessed body. The edge looks to be half the width of the block itself. The cords between the triangles and trapezoids are circular. The rest are square blocks. The internal of these recessed areas contain shapes and greeblies which resemble circuits or other devices? however these are only shown in one source. You will need to sew or tape Velcro onto the boots with the opposite piece on the trapezoidal boxes. This will keep the belt up as well as keep the boots up. CHEST BOX The chest box is a smaller version of Darth Vader?s chest box. It is about half the size of the chest box in all aspects (length, height, and width). Unlike the Vader box, this one does not have as much detailing. The box is gray and not glossed like the silver. It has a bit of a lip around the edge much like the Vader box. Beyond this, there is not much detail which is visible in most of the reference shots. I am using the fact that Lumiya is ?Lady Vader? and as such would have some Vader-ish look to her chest box. It has three ?coin slot? style lights on the right of the box (facing it). This is much the same as the Darth Vader box which Lumiya was supposed to replicate. However, those are slat to the surface of the box and red in color. The light pattern should be the same for consistence. On the left of the box is a red and blue plate, like the Vader Box. These do not have to light up, but it will not downgrade this. As a replica of the Vader box, they should not light up. However, if you ask any Vader, most will say the lights behind them look cool. The lower plate is actually a series of buttons or switches which should replicate those on the Vader chest box. I would suggest that they be made smaller, as to fit on the box. The three white and one red would be fitting. To connect the box to the chest of the suit, I would suggest either really strong velcro or sewing a couple of hooks onto the chest of the bodysuit to connect the chest box to. GLOVES The gloves of the suit should be cut from the silver latex material that fits. Both gloves should be cut from about ? of the way up the inside of the forearm to almost the shoulder. The excess part will become the gauntlet of the glove. You should also cut off a portion of the rest of the arm to use on the inside of the gauntley. Using a stiffening material (preferably plastic or sintra), place them just as you did the tops of the boots. Put the material over it and fold them down. Sew it down or glue it. That is it. ARMOR The armor is being made using the larger of the two suits. The reason for its size is to double it over. This will provide the look of the armor folds as well as slightly strengthening it against stretching. You may need to modify the back slightly to add a new zipper up the neck. It should be cut to the desired shape, make sure to leave some left over to fold into the lines. This is where more of the fun can be. The left shoulder can either lay against the body or be pointed as a pauldron. The same way the boot tops and the gauntlets were made can be used here as well. The chest piece of the armor should be interfaced to provide some stiffness across the length. This should be done after sewing to gluing the folded material down. To make sure the armor sits correctly, you should also sew on velcro to some strategic locations to keep it from folding or bending. MASK The mask itself is two separate parts. The first part is a plastic undermask which keeps the top of the turban in shape as well as shows through the turban. The second part of the mask is the turban itself. Besides the general shape, the mask needs only be shown to the front. The mask cutout appears to have a similar size and shape to the painted part of Boba Fett?s mask. There is also some detail work on the edges. Besides the details, the mask is only necessary to provide the shape for the turban. The second part of the mask involves the turban itself. I would suggest that it be made as a single piece of material with the look of the wrapping. To simulate the mask portion, as well as make it easy to put on and take off, I would suggest making the neck and ?mask? fabric so that it folds over and velcros closed at the neck. This cloth should be either black or purple. CAPE The cape can be made in many styles. It can be prestine and similar to Vader, it can be rages and tattered, it can be a robe-style which covers the left shoulder. It can be made in black or purple as both have been seen. However, it must match the cloth of the mask. It should connect around the neck, probably by velcro. LIGHTWHIP The lightwhip is a specialty item. The main body of the whip itself would be easy to either do youraelf or order it. The ship portion would be easier to do yourself (and probably cheaper). All you need to do is get a length of white and light blue EL line a length of leather cord, and a length of flexible cable or silver nylon cord. Braid them all together and stick them in the hilt.

It may not be three sources, but the two separate sources have enough basic details in common with each other to provide a basis for the costume. The armored collar much like the Jerec collar, the segmented chest armor, and the belt are identical in both pictures (with a belt detail shown in the picture and not on the miniature. From there, one looks like a combat suit and the other like a "senatorial" suit. As a matter of fact, the robe looks like it would be fun to do. It appears to be a Vader-like robe which is attached to a Vader-like cape. All as one piece. But that is just me.

Darth Caedus' stat card picture from Star Wars Miniatures: Legacy of the Force. Darth Caedus at the Funeral of Mara Jade Skywalker from Jedi vs. Sith: The Essential Guide to the Force

Well, if and when we are both at the same Con, we'll have to do several thousand duel poses for the fans. Well, I've decided to turn from the Shadow Guard for this project as my next costume. Well, next while getting a leather kilt, shorter robe, and pantless-version of the undersuit for my Vader to join the Kilted Trooper Detachment (shudder in fear, please). Otherwise, I'll be starting a new thread for my project. I'll post the description I have above (with some additional information), I'll post the reference information so there is no problem with the three for inclusion, and I'll post pics of my progress. I know that I'm not allowed to ask who makes what, but could anyone here pint me toward someone who might know where I can get a set of "flattened" Vader shin plates and a possible custom chest-piece?

This update comes after some observations. The updates themselves are in italics. SHOULDERS The shoulder pauldrons appear to be ABS Darth Vader Shin Guards. They are flared out more than the Vader Shins and are cut just below the knee in a round or stylized fashion. The curve happens in line with the studs. They are red with a series of black triangles at the edge. They bolt to the shoulder straps of the armor and possibly have an elastic band under the armpit to secure them from flopping around. There is a separate ABS band set over the tops of the shoulders which has three raised symbols spread across it. The length does not go past the sides of the pauldrons and is covered by the mantle of the cape when worn. The bands may connect by a flap which secures under the pauldron (with the bolt through it). ARMOR The armor cover both the chest and back. It is flat but curves around the body covering the same area as the Clone Trooper chest and upper back plates. They connect at the shoulder with a black Stormtrooper-style shoulder strap which the pauldrons bolt to. There are a pair ofleather straps which go from the chest-plate to the belt. It is implied that a similar pair of straps connect to the belt. Finally, there are a pair of small straps which connect from the bottoms of the shoulders to velcro pieces on the main part of the jacket. I would also suggest an elastic strap between the front and back plates to secure both from ?flapping.? The back plate is not necessary if the cape is worn at all times, but it would give a better sense of realism if it were. CAPE WITH MANTLE The cape appears to be a full-sized cape (like those sold by c*st*mspr*ps on ebay). It?s length is only to the tops of the ankles so it will not drag on the ground while you walk. The cape rests on the half-way point of the shoulder pauldron (possibly velcroed to the pauldron). The mantle connects to the cape along the back of the neck. It is about 4-6 inches wide and is the length of the jacket. It is covered by a series of embroidered symbols on its length. BELT The belt appears to be a typical Imperial belt and bucklewithout the cog device on the buckle. There is a saber clip bolted onto the right front of the belt with two small round silver bolts. There are two snaps on the left and right sides of the belt which the chest plate connects to. JACKET The black jacket appears to be loosely based around the Imperial Officers jacket with some modifications. Its material appears to be softer and the fit appears to be looser than the officer jacket. The length is mid thigh in the front and back and curves up to the hips on the sides. The jacket has only a crew-neck collar. The bib is the same and provides a little padding between the armor and the body. The cut on the bib, though, tapers it down a little more sharply than normal. The outer sleeves billow around the inner sleeves and end about mid-bicep. The neck-piece appears to be the same material as the chest and back. However, it may be more appropriate to use stiffened leather or a flexible plastic covered by shiny black vinyl. It would probably be safe to cleanly break the plastic in he back (or use two separate pieces). Either way, include a bit of velcro to secure them together so they do not shift while wearing. Finally, add a tab to the bottom of the left and right sides of the collar which can be velcroed under the jacket to keep it in place.[/i] The inner sleeves are identical to sleeves on the Vader undersuit.

What can I say, I love costuming. Before I and my wife got into the 501st, I did stuff like this for Ren Faire and Fantasy costumes. A little O.C.D. helps too. My reason for wanting a Jerec is because there is already a Revan in my Garrison (well, it will be mine, once my Vader gets done by the end of next month). I was looking for another character and came up with this little-known guy. He is featured in the game, the graphic novel, the guide to characters, the minitures, the CCG (Collectible Card Game, not Cloud City Garrison--yet), and the minitures with in the next few months. After my Vader and my wife's Leonia Tavira (Imp Officer), I will be doing this character.

EYEPIECE The base for the eyepiece should be a pair of non-reflective thin-frame black sunglasses. They are cut to contour around the nose and bridge over the eyes and are about 3/8-1/2 inch wide. The actual frame area appears to be a mesh or fabric, but in a couple of frames, also showed the glint of the eyes. So, it is possible to use non-reflective lenses. After finding an appropriate pair of sunglasses, cut them down to the appropriate width. You should sand the nosepiece also to allow them to sit closer to the eyes. If the plastic is glossy, it may also be wise to cover it with a coat of flat finish (making sure not to hit the lenses). After that, remove the arms and securely attach a pair of elastic bands to the sides. For another level, create a web-patten between the two elastic bands behind the head. SHOULDERS The shoulder pauldrons appear to be ABS and have a similar shape to the Original Trilogy Darth Vader shin plates. They are red with a series of black triangles at the edge. They bolt to the shoulder straps of the armor and possibly have an elastic band under the armpit to secure them from flopping around. There is a separate ABS band set over the tops of the shoulders which has three raised symbols spread across it. The length does not go past the sides of the pauldrons and is covered by the mantle of the cape when worn. The bands may connect by a flap which secures under the pauldron (with the bolt through it). ARMOR The armor cover both the chest and back. It has no true contours, but seems to cover the same area as the Clone Trooper chest and upper back plates. They connect at the shoulder with a Stormtrooper-style shoulder strap which the pauldrons bolt to. There are a pair of straps which go from the chest-plate to the belt. Finally, there are a pair of small straps which connect from the bottoms of the shoulders to velcro pieces on the main part of the jacket. I would also suggest an elastic strap between the front and back plates to secure both from ?flapping.? CAPE WITH MANTLE The cape appears to be a full-sized cape (like those sold by c*st*mspr*ps on ebay). It?s length is only to the tops of the ankles, though so it will not drag on the ground while you walk. It rests on the half-way point of the shoulder pauldron (possibly velcroed to the pauldron). The mantle connects to the cape along the back of the neck. It is about 4-6 inches wide and is the length of the jacket. It is covered by a series of embroidered symbols on its length. BELT The belt appears to be a typical Imperial Belt without the cog device on the buckle. There is also a saber clip on the right side of the belt. There are two snaps on the left and right side of the belt which the chest plate connects to. Otherwise, it is unremarkable. SABER The saber would have to be custom built. It can be an FX saber or just a hilt, as Jerec only drew his saber twice preferring to let his underlings do the dirty work. Otherwise, this needs to be a custom saber. GLOVES The gloves appear to be normal gauntlets. They are black and have no texture. The gauntlets appear to be fit around the sleeves of the suit. It is possible that they also have some pattern on the back. BOOTS The boots appear to be typical German Officer Parade boots. TROUSERS The trousers are loose fitting around the legs and billow slightly over the boots. They look to be the same material as the jacket. JACKET The jacket appears to be loosely based around the Imperial Officers jacket with some modifications. The length is mid thigh in the front and back and the bottom of the hip on the sides. The jacket has only a crew-neck collar. The bib is loose around the neck to cover the collar, but secures under the pauldron. Finally, the outer sleeves billow slightly over the inner sleeves. The neck piece appears to be the same material as the chest and back. It wraps around the neck and connects under the bib. The inner sleeves are identical to sleeves on the Vader undersuit.

Everything is updated below. Look there for a more detailed look at the information.

For the helmet, you can see that she is wearing some kind of a helmet under the wrap. My suggestion would be similar to the ?horns? on Nihilus: Shape a helmet to the needed size. It looks to be a VERY exaggerated Mandalorian cut face piece except without the visor. You can see that it is entirely a helmet in the second image with the unwrapped headdress. It?s cool that you are using metal for the armor, but plastic would be easier for some to work with and less dangerous if you should turn too quickly and catch someone wit ha shoulder plate at cons.

That looks amazing, but how durable is it? My suggestion would be actual ?wiring? affixed to the suit. Use a thin-strand nylon cord and either fabric staples or sewing it at the corners. With the nylon cord, it can be used with the liner inside it to give it a thicker look or without to allow it to look flat. Either way, it will stand out slightly from the base fabric while still looking like part of it.

My suggestion for the boots would be to get a vinyl or latex metallic bodysuit with built in boots and cut it down to the shape for the boots. The belt can be fixed to the tops of the boots via hidden snaps. That would give the proper look. The same material can be used for the upper body also. Lining the fabric with something should give it a good wear strength as well as thickening it to look like metal.