DarthTagion

This was well worth the view. Keep up the awesome work, both of you!

I do seem to recall a Senator from Naboo who seemed like a mild-mannered old-man with good intent as well. I agree he does seem pretty chill, but right after that he goes sociopath. As for the 3-sources. Unless that was recently changed, I was told some very incorrect information. Ironically after re-reading the requirements, that actually means there are about a bazillion characters now legal for approval. If SWTOR hadn't broken my heart and made me feel really sad about spending all that time on it... I'd consider making an outfit from it. I just don't see the title doing anything exciting any time soon. (3 50s 2 40s 3 30s, Collector's Ed). It's not posted but there is also a quest-line where the mask is full-3d and not on Revan, for the sake of reference. Which begs the question how he even got it as I doubt he went to DK to get it...

-I like to get the hood point down to where it is about an inch above the red stripe, I think the look really is achieved when you don't have a big dome of the forehead showing. I'm guessing a good placement would be just above your eyebrow line in real life, if the mask weren't on You should be able to see but likely the sides of the visor will be obscured because it will be that low. -This one is kinda hard and takes getting used to. The bottom of your red drape should be darn close to in-line with the bottom edge of your hakama. If you can lower the red that is one option, your curiass is at the right height so lowering that isn't an option really. The other option is actually to pull up your hakama and wear it higher. I actually pull mine up to my belly button, rather than have it ride right on my hips with my pants. Third option would be to hem the bottom edge of the hakama as a last option I think. -The black sash looks like it could be pulled tighter. Your front view looks good, the left side looks mostly good and passable but it is the right side that looks pretty low and loose. Rob's instructions state that it should be right under your butt. I place mine by having it right in that spot between cheek and leg. I finally put velcro at that measurement and trimmed it because I had too much fabric. -Your shoulder-cape piece should tuck in from the side, covering the upper part of your bicep, with the bottom-edge being as close to parallel with the ground as possible. For my submission photos I actually ironed the pleats down hardcore and made sure they were all primped and hanging properly. -The Bracers look to be maybe a little loose but there isn't really a requirement for it. You're probably fine but you might try tightening them up. I love the hanging sheet, that's hardcore! Despite the lengthy notes, it looks really good. With those tweaks I am positive you'd pass with no question.

I will be at Planet Comicon, if you want to 1. See my outfit. 2. Have me do the installation for you.

I think maybe I should get this stickied and cleaned up, if people like it I'm willing to do so, maybe even add pictures. For the record, on this topic, I only had two cut TWO slots, one for each of the lower rings. I did the top ones first by removing the upper ring VERY carefully. I was careful not to tear the lower ribbon. Then, on the top corner piece that wraps to the back, I peeled up the first layer of the loop, leaving the original ribbon in place. Then, taking the new ring, I was able to loop it into the old ribbon that Rob installs initially. Through the rear of the loop I took the now long piece of ribbon, looping it from the underside, then pulling back, wrapping tightly to the underside of the chest piece. I did this as tight as possible, as that will anchor the new ring in place. Then I hot-glued the daylights out of the ribbon to secure it. Then repeated for the other side. Now I had a guide for angles. What I did was remove the ring AND the wire loopy from the initial ring on the lower part. This made a hole, which was later covered by the rings I got, you may need to do something different but I can show you what rings I used any time you like. Now, taking the lower ring, I held the back end right along the edge of the armor, then angled it downward to be parallel with the upper ring. Taking a super sharp (please, use a fresh blade) hobby knife, I scored a line roughly the length equal to the width of the ribbon rob used initially. Now comes the dangerous, scary, downright terrifying part. I scored many many many more times, carving deeper and 'slightly' wider each time. The idea hear is to carve a slot wide enough to get the ribbon back through, but thin enough to not look ridiculous. If you are inexperienced with carving or unsteady of the hand this is the most dangerous part, both for you and the armor. Another option is to use a dremel tool that would do this faster, and safer, but if not careful and not using the right tool, you could do more damage than my hobby knife would. Anyway, now we pretend we have the slot I mentioned. I took the ribbon rob used originally for, I think the shoulder ties (I trimmed them as I had a ton of excess, minimal replacement of bits was my goal). I bent it in half and crimped it with my teeth a little. Then using a thin dull device, maybe a butter knife, I pressed it from the rear, up to the front, as a little loop. Then carefully I got the lower loop to grab it. Again pulling it tight to anchor the piece down, and also dressing the ribbon to be as wide, and un-bunched as possible, I cranked it down and glued the snot out of it. Then I proceeded to used the rear ribbon once more, again pulling the outer layer and leaving the one mounted directly to the armor, I cranked that piece down too and glued it all to heck. In all the process didn't take very long, I made sure to take my time. Do not rush this. I will not lie, there is one very very thin slice mark running out, not very far where my hand slipped once. Such is the burden of doing your own work. Again BE CAREFUL, you have sharp objects, and I'm accustomed to 40k miniatures, carving with a hobby knife and also with gouging my thumbs with hobby knives, and the after pain when I super-glue my thumb back together. It only stings for the first 10 minutes.

I'm interested if it gets approved as well, as I think that answer is a step in the right direction. However, as I said, there's a lot of info in these threads, and this little nugget of gold is perhaps my favorite: Source: http://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2072 I think Pam said it best when she posted that.

Welcome to the boards Kris, plenty of fellow Revans here to take a look. Will be eagerly awaiting your full pics. In the mean time, feel free to dig around here to see if issues you have are already covered somewhere. This is a great place to learn tricks.

I'd clean up the right shoulder a little, otherwise you already know what needs fixing. Looks good! If you find a good way to make the hood/shoulders easy to get right, by yourself let me know, it is my least favorite piece of the costume.

+1 for this. New guy in my shop has his own printing setup for his kid's basketball team.

An hour or so of work and I could probably knock one out. I have some thin hide from Tandy that was fairly on the cheap. I own a strap cutter and have made a detailed belt before, if you just need a dyed strap ready to go that should be no problem. I need to know all the details you're looking for though.

Hi and welcome. I agree, we want to see pictures! Will this be your first 501st costume or are you already a member?

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ has a saber building app available at the site, which could give you an idea of what you want to put together, also, digging around the forums you can find tutorials on building your own favorite. *TOR sabers are bland and not really available in any place for quick purchase.

I work with leather some and I would approach it one of two ways. One is that you actually get a couple of shots and tear it down to a strap by strap level, find some way to identify them each individually and then secure them from behind somehow. The other option is that you make it all one piece of leather, then with a tool, probably something that cuts into it, or something that just leaves an impression, I'd scribe each of the lines very heavily. This would require a fairly thick piece of hide. Then, after all that, I'd run some black dye down in the seems very carefully, or use a dirty trick and do it with sharpie. This would really emphasize the difference in pieces. All a theory here, no proven result that this would actually be an acceptable end result.

I would do the math something like this: Lay out a picture of Nihilus and get a ruler. Measure Nihilus from head-to-toe and write that down. Then measure his blade length using the same measuring unit. I would recommend inches if you're a standard user or centimeters if you're so inclined though as you're going off of a picture, I actually suggest you use Millimeters for this equation as it will give you the most accurate representation. You now have the ratio on the left. Then you take your height in the same unit of measurement. Round and convert from Centimeters if you like. Now all you do is multiply Nihilus' blade length by your height. After that, divide by Nihiluls' height and you have your scale version of the blade. Probably more work but it would be more accurate. For the sake of accuracy, you will need an image with Nihilus standing up in addition to his blade being vertical. Solve for X: Nihilus' Height_______Your Height -------------------- = ------------------ Nihilus' Blade________Your Blade

I debated this myself a couple of times, but figured it was already covered, seems maybe it hasn't. The issue I see coming up first is the most important. 3 Sources. These are all one source, are they not? As the game is no different between a 'cutscene' and an in-game model, I don't even see that being a viable comparison. What I 'do' like is that it's finally showing him hood down+mask on, giving us a look at that for perspective. What I 'don't' like is that the items are all re-skins of various stuff elsewhere in the game, split between warriors and inquisitors. The line he says specifically is: "I 'was' Jedi, I 'am' Sith." There's no denying that he is/was both at that point, however I will push this a step further in that if you look at both that line, and his behaviors, he is more Sith than gray, he with HK-47 are determined to destroy 97% of the Imperial populace on the sole premise that they contain True Sith DNA. My vote is Dark.

Omaha Children's Museum Central Garrison Imperial 80th Squad We had Vader, Imp Guard, Obi-Wan, Tusken Raider, Revan, Mando Merc, TK, Jedi, R2 all in attendance for a TON of kids. What was great is we really had some hardcore fans. Kids knew who Revan was and even some of the dads were really really into it. Overall great experience!

Pam mentions them in this thread: http://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2072 I used two of each that she mentions, to give it a little varied look. Pretty easy swap, carving was the hardest, to put the lower set in. But looking at the before and after, I just love the new hooks.

Personally I'm jury-out on the rings still. But the tandy hooks look SOOO good, they just seem like real hardware and it comes out nice. I'll probably replace my hip rings soon too just because. Grats on the approval!

Looks good! I 'just' got mine approved. As for your noses... I took some foam, placed it for my chin, and around my nose (vents air down and away from the lens, a little) the chin piece eases the angle on your nose and makes it much more bearable. Maybe bring the hood down just a smidge. I'll say it even though you did. Fix those rings! Cutting into the plastic... That was a horrible feeling. Edit: And props to your handler or whomever deals with your shoulder tuck.

Part two.

Part 1 of Re-submission. New hooks, fixed the red-piece height and cleaned up the shoulder-tucks which is an every-time thing for every troop I do.

Thanks! Glad you like them. I had a really great time, though it was rather warm with the armor + studio lights.

The ones I got are the ones from Sears posted elsewhere, similar to the ones you just posted. I like the toe piece. The problem I had with the Sears ones is likely one you might encounter as well. When I cut the ankle strap off (cut, then carved out the root of it, then painted the white leather core) I found that now the things don't hug my ankle at all and are kind of loose for walking. I've gotten used to the feeling but I will be working on either a velcro + leather strap, or some sort of filler so my feet don't slosh around. I figured this wisdom would apply to you too, learn from others' mistakes/encounters.

I was very sad that I didn't look in the mirrors. My helpers didn't know that the bottom of the shoulder piece needed to be tucked in as well and thus that. Going to order my clips right NOW. But otherwise I thought you all might enjoy these. Once I look past the cloth error I'm REALLY happy with these shots.

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