Twi'lek Pam

. Okay, I posted the standards for Arica's dress in the Detachment Members forum and set up an approval poll. Members, please stop by and vote! http://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forum ... php?t=1024 If we find later that there is a reference for the earrings, we can add them in. Pam

. Okay, I went through all of the discussion for this costume, studied the reference images, looked online for more references (but didn't find any), and then put this all together into something resembling our standard format. For now, I'm going to leave out the earrings until I see a visual reference for them. Does anyone have any suggestions or comments on this draft before it goes to the detachment for an approval poll? Costume Standards for Arica's Blue Dress An Arica Costume Must Have: (These costume elements are required.) Bodysuit: * The sleeveless bodysuit must be made from black fishnet material. * A privacy lining may be sewn under the fishnet as long as the nude effect is preserved. * The neckline of the bodysuit should reach to the base of the neck. * A blue fabric applique covers the chest. * The applique should resemble two hands, with five "fingers" curving downward on each side. * Two triangular designs are topstitched on the top edge of each "hand." * The center of the applique is topstiched with two concentric circles and a vertical center line. Skirt: * The skirt should be made of the same blue material as the applique "hands." * The skirt should consist of a front and a back panel, and is open at the sides. * The panels should extend below the knees. * The front and back panels are connected to each other by a strip of the same blue material, which should be approximately 2 to 3 cm wide. * Decorative strips of fabric similar to belt loops are spaced along the top of the skirt. Stockings: * Black stockings should reach from the ankles to mid thigh. Scarf: * There is a single long rectangular scarf made of the same or similar material as the rest of the costume. * A black or silver elastic band around each bicep holds the scarf against the upper arms. * One or two narrow silver bracelets hold the scarf at each wrist. Headband: * A narrow silver headband circles the forehead. * The headband may include an ornamental design at each temple. Hair: * The hair or wig may be black or strawberry blonde. * If black, the hair should be approximately shoulder length and wavy. * If strawberry blonde, the hair should reach to mid back and may be straight or wavy. An Arica Costume Should Have: (These costume elements are highly recommended, but are not required.) Garters: * A black garter band may be worn around the top of each stocking. * Oval shaped designs made of a silver material are evenly spaced around the garter bands. An Arica Costume May Have: (These costume elements are optional, but can really make a costume stand out!) Footwear: * Arica does not wear shoes while wearing this dress. When shoes are needed for the costumer's comfort and safety, sandals such as those seen with the Arica jumpsuit may be worn. Boots resembling the Slave Leia style would also be acceptible. .

Is there another image of the Decipher version of Arica? I don't see earrings in this picture, and I need to see a reference for the earrings if they're going to be included in the standards. Pam

Beautiful! Here I was feeling bummed that several girls who'd said they were going to make Traya costumes never came through, and then one that I didn't even know about snuck right up with a job well done! I agree with the suggestions that have been made so far. You've got a terrific costume, and it sounds like you already know as well as the rest of us that costume "tweaking for improvement" is a continuous process. My main suggestion would be to weather the belt a bit if you can. It looks brand-new shiny, rather than something that has been worn for a while. When Rhonda reviews your costume, I will be happy to support it. It looks to me like you've hit the standards spot-on. (Of course, if you want to really ensure my approval, rumor has it that ice cream is a very effective way to bribe me!) Pam

. Is there any more discussion for this costume or the standards? I'd like to get a cleaned up version of the standards ready for an approval vote soon! Pam

. I'm always on the lookout for more Mara jumpsuit fabric, and I recently found a potential new source. I wrote to them and asked for swatches, and they sent back 5 types of fabric. One of them looks dead-on like the same fabric I used for my Mara jumpsuit! http://www.leotards.ca/index.php The fabric that looks like what I used is Hydrafoil black, --977. It's four way stretch, and has a good sheen that allows the costume's details (piping and thigh quilting) to show up nicely. The following swatches were not good choices: --722 - very glittery --900 - not enough stretch --716 - sheen makes it look gray --788 - glittery and nearly see-through Pam

. When I first started costuming, I used to spend hours and hours trolling through fabric stores and websites looking for the perfect fabric for whatever I was making. It never failed, though... I'd find the perfect fabric, but they didn't have it in the right color. Or, I'd find the perfect color... but it would only come in a type of fabric that was completely wrong for what I was making. These days, I prefer to get white fabric and dye it to the color that I want. (The exception is spandex and pleather... can't really dye those very well!) It's often difficult to tell what a dye color is going to look like on fabric, so it's a good idea to test them before you dunk five yards of your costume material into a tub of dye. For this, I keep a stack of 2 or 3 inch fabric squares in my dye supplies tub. Each time I get a new color of dye, I label a piece of fabric with the color name in Sharpie, and then mix up a very small amount of dye and soak the fabric. After years of dying fabric, I now have a "library" of color swatches to use for reference. Each type of fabric takes dye differently, so it's always a good idea to test a swatch of your actual costume fabric before dying the whole piece of fabric. Better to be safe than sorry! I prefer to work with a cotton/lycra blend when I need a stretch fabric, or a linen/rayon blend for a more textured look. Both take dye very well, but I always have to keep in mind that the cotton starts out pure white, while the linen has a soft tint that has to be taken into account. ~*~ Using test swatches also lets you mix custom colors and see exactly what the fabric will look like. (Remember, they will look lighter when they dry!) Use smaller pieces, and record the mix of dyes as you work so that when you're finished you'll be able to recreate it on a larger scale for the full piece of material. Sometimes I write the mix right on each piece of fabric with a Sharpie, while other times I record it on paper. Writing on the fabric is better, because you'll never forget which swatch is which afterwards! If you write the mix on the fabric, write it on a dry swatch before dipping the fabric. A Sharpie cannot write on wet cloth without the ink spreading. Here are the test swatches I used while mixing colors to make a Xiaan Amersu costume: Once I had selected the most accurate swatches, I dyed the rest of the fabric, and I was ready to sew! Pam

. These costumes have been approved for membership in the 501st Legion: Dark Force Witch This character is based on an illustration from the Dark Side Sourcebook. It is a generic representation of the Force Witch culture, rather than a Force Witch from a specific planet. In the revised updates to the Dark Side Sourcebook which were later published on Wizards.com, the name is shorted to simply "Force Witch." References: - The Dark Side Sourcebook (Note: This costume does not meet the "3 references" rule for 501st membership, but it is considered a grandfathered character because it was accepted before the rule came into effect.) Nightsister Sith Witch - This character was designed by Iain McCaig while he was drawing concept sketches for Darth Maul. The design was not selected, but the sketch was printed in the Art of Star Wars Episode I book. The concept art was eventually used for a new piece in the Star Wars Miniatures game and was given the name "Nightsister Sith Witch." References: - Art of Star Wars Episode 1: The Phantom Menace - Star Wars Miniatures: Universe - Star Wars Tales --17 Cover Art. (Portrait only, not an acceptable reference) (Note: This costume does not meet the "3 references" rule for 501st membership, but it is considered a grandfathered character because it was accepted before the rule came into effect.) This costume is not yet approved for membership in the 501st Legion, but it does qualify: Charal This character was first introduced in the Battle for Endor movie. It has not yet become an accepted 501st costme, but it does meet all of the qualifications. In order for this costume to be elligible for acceptance in the 501st, we would need a set of standards to be written, and an accurate Charal costume that could be presented to the Legion Council for approval. References: - Ewoks: The Battle For Endor Movie - Star Wars Databank Entry - Star Wars Galaxies Video Game - Concept art in The Illustrated Star Wars Universe These costumes are not eliglible for membership in the 501st Legion: These are terrific characters, but they do not have enough references yet. If more references become available, their eligibility for membership will be revisited. An accepted reference must be a full-body illustration that is not simply a reprint of earlier artwork. Mighella References: - Darth Maul Comic - Jedi vs. Sith: The Essential Guide to the Force (Portrait only) - Star Wars: The Ultimate Visual Guide (Re-printed art from the comic.) Baritha References: - Courtship of Princess Leia Novel (No illustrations) - Cracken's Threat Dossier Roleplaying Sourcebook (Illustration) - Galaxies Video Game Pam

If you want to get a really even coat of paint, then liquid colors are the answer. Cake type makeup is great for blending and such... but it tends to end up looking blotchy if you're trying to get an even coating over a larger area. I've found that the ideal way to apply makeup is to start by putting down a base coat with a makeup sponge. Get all of the skin area painted with a very thin layer. It'll look blotchy, but that's okay. Use smaller pieces of sponge to paint around the eyes, into the nostrils a bit, etc. Let that layer dry, and then apply a second very light layer to even out the color. This can be done with a sponge, but you'll get the best results with an airbrush. Keeping the paint layer thin is very important. I have both propellant cans and an airbrush for applying the second coat of paint, but my propellant cans haven't come out of the closet in years because I find them to have a frustratingly low and uneven pressure. I put some information about the different kinds of paint and how I apply it on the "Body Paint" page on my Twi'lek site, if that might help you any: http://members.aol.com/Mitji/Twilek.htm For the eyelids, it depends on what kind of paint you use. If you use a water based paint, then it's best to color your eyelids with eye makeup. Water based paint will tend to wear off and collect in the creases of your eyelids over the course of the day unless you apply and seal it really well. If you use alcohol based paint, then it'll stay put all day long, and you don't need anything else on your eyelids unless you want a bit of color for definition. (Which always looks better.) Stencils are definitely a good thing! Pam

The circles are about the size of my palm. A bit smaller than a CD. I haven't tried any other kind of fabric, just the vinyl. I used the "pleather" stuff because it looked good and I happened to already have plenty of it on hand! I took the blue tape off before I sprayed the design. The stencil itself is pretty strong with general handling... it just needed a bit of extra support while I was cutting it. The paint I used is called SEM. It's made for vinyl, so it doesn't flake off. You can get it at many auto paint supply shops. (They use it on car seats, so you know it's strong stuff!) Pam

Ack! More bad links! Sorry about that. We switched web hosts a while back, and I've been hunting down photo links to change ever since. I never realized how many pictures I'd posted here on the forum until I suddenly had hundreds of links to update, and they're scattered/hidden all over the place! Links updated. Thanks for letting me know that I'd missed them. (Speaking of the pinwheel pattern... Marcella, I LOVE the way you integrated that pattern into your signature banner!) Pam

Very nice! Pam

The clay surface should be as close to the final look as you can manage before you move on to the molding process. It's a LOT easier to touch up imperfections in clay than it is to touch up a solid material when you have deep indentations like that. The best way to go about the process is to make the clay sculpture, and then make a mold from it in soft plaster. Clean the mold, seal it, spray in some mold release, and then fill the plaster mold with a very thick layer of thickened fiberglass which is then backed with fiberglass mat or cloth for strength. (WEAR A RESPIRATOR!) I thicken fiberglass resin with a heavy dose of talcum powder so that it will firm up and stay on the walls of the mold better. (The powder is a safe additive. Bondo is really just fiberglass resin with a VERY large amount of talc added.) Even after being thickened with powder, the resin will still tend to pool at the bottom of your mold, so you have to keep brushing it up the sides until it sets up. Once the resin is set, you can remove the plaster mold. It usually breaks, but that's okay because it was just temporary. You now have a fiberglass master sculpt which can be sanded, have any low points filled with bondo, or whatever else you need to do with it. Once that piece is looking as good as you can make it, it's time to make a high quality mold from it, and make your costume castings. I recommend using a flexible platinum cure silicone such as Dragon Skin for the mold. Snce you have deep cuts and you'll need to make multiple copies, you'll want a very durable mold! Hope that helps! (Great idea using the template... that looks like it's helping you a lot.) Pam

Thanks for sharing your project with us; this is going to be pretty cool. For symmetry... that's a challenge. For the most part, you'll have to eyeball the pieces, but I've found that a pair of calipers works well to help keep things symmetrical, also. If you have a midpoint, you can measure the width of each side from that point with the calipers, making sure that everything lines up. http://www.fxsupply.com/sculpt/sculpt.html If you're using water based clay, it's a good idea to paint your plaster base with a good coating of spray paint to seal it. Otherwise, the water will soak in and your plaster will begin to collapse. If you're using an oil based clay (my personal preference), you shouldn't have that problem. Pam

Sweet! Thanks for all the uploaded scans, you two! Now I get to cross another thing off my to-do list, and I didn't even have to do anything! (That's my favorite kind of accomplisment. ) I'll be looking forward to seeing your progress with the costume. Pam

Sorry, I don't know of any makers. But... the design is so simple, you should easily be able to make them yourself with a sheet of sintra. The real challenge would be in the painting, because it has some great weathered elements to it. Pam

Wow, I'm impressed. That was thorough and well written! Pam

You really do NOT want to cast anything 1/2" thick, trust me! It would take a massive amount of fiberglass and resin, and it would weigh a ton. The proper thing to do is to create an illusion of depth, as you mentioned. Super-thick fiberglass isn't a good option. Even my thickest fiberglass castings are cinsiderably less than a quarter inch thick. Fiberglass matt is best for large areas without a lot of detail. It's the workhorse of the fiberglass industry, and comes in various fiber densities. Fiberglass cloth is best for small areas, curves, and detail work. The two can be used together as needed, also. For either one, I wouldn't go any thicker than 5 layers. If you truly need a very thick look, I would make it hollow. Cast the top, cast the bottom, epoxy them together, and fill/sand the seams. Pam

. I would like to send out a huge thank-you to the following members of our forum for their generous support. With their donations, we have already raised $90 to help cover the cost of the forum hosting and domain registration for 2008. Bill (Koda Vonnor) Dave (VaderDave) Erin (ondiv) Thank you very, very much! Pam

. Costume Standards for the Arica Bodysuit An Arica Costume Must Have: (These costume elements are required.) Bodysuit: * One piece blue-violet or blue-gray formfitting bodysuit made from a low-sheen stretch material. * The left sleeve is wrist length, while the right shoulder and arm remain bare. * The right pant leg is ankle length, while the left leg reaches only to mid thigh. * Any zippers must be hidden on the back or on the right side. No fasteners or openings on the front. * Silver or gray swirling patterns are to be embroidered, painted, or sculpted and attached to the bodysuit in the following locations: --- Right leg, encircling the bottom pant hem. --- Outer right leg, extending from the bottom hem up to mid thigh. The design broadens at the knee, coming around to cover the front of the knee. --- Left wrist, encircling the sleeve hem. --- Back of the left arm, extending from the hem up to mid-upper arm. Belt: * A gold colored belt should be made from three braided cords. * One cord is worn snugly around the waist while the others hang lower on the left hip. * Two cord ends hang freely on the right side and reach to mid-thigh. * A round, intricately sculpted belt clasp or buckle is located at the front right hip. * The belt clasp may be colored silver or gold. Decorative Armor: * The armor pieces should be intricatly sculpted with a deep, swirling pattern. * The armor pieces should be silver or gray in color. * A darker silver or gray color should be used in the low points and crevases of the armor to enhance the visiblity of the design. * A large, rounded shoulder bell must cover the left shoulder. * A silver arm band is worn on the upper right arm. It should be approximately three inches wide. * A bracer is worn on the right forearm. The bracer completely encircles the arm and extends from the wrist up to a few inches below the elbow. * A greave is worn on the left leg. The greave completely encircles the lower leg. It should reach just to just below the knee on the outer side of the leg, and then should slope down a few inches lower on the inner side. Sandals: * Silver sandals with covered toes and flat heel. Hair Color: * The hair or wig should be red-gold in color, and should reach from the shoulders to mid-back in length. Makeup: * Dancer's makeup with red lipstick and violet eye shadow. Contacts: * Green contacts if eyes are not naturally green .

. To see the official Legion CRL entry and a downloadable PDF file for this costume, please click here: http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:SL_traya Costume Standards for Darth Traya A Darth Traya Costume Must Have: (These costume elements are required.) Hooded Robe: * The robe must be made of a matte black fabric. There should be enough fabric to create a suitably loose fitting robe. * The robe must be floor length. * The robe should be gathered at the shoulders to create a pleated look that runs down the front all the way from the shoulders to the floor. * The front of the robe is open from the shoulders to the belt, creating a "V" shaped opening. * From the belt down, the robe is closed in front. * The back of the robe is somewhat gathered, but does not have the same pleating as the front. * The left sleeve can be slightly longer to hide the costumer's hand. * The hood must be attached to the robe, and should have a pointed tip. * When worn up, the hood should fall directly over the bridge of the costumer's nose. Underdress or Undershirt: * The underdress or shirt is visible in the "V" opening at the front of the robe. * If a shirt is used, ensure that it is long enough to stay tucked in at the beltline. * The fabric should be a deeper shade of black than the outer robe. * The underdress must have a snug fitting turtleneck opening. * A dickey may be used if properly secured to stay in place. Wimple: * The wimple should cover the costumers cheeks, chin and neck, and should be long enough to tuck into the high collar of the underdress. * The wimple should be tight fitting and should accentuate the costumer's cheekbones. Belt: * The belt should be made of matte black leather. * The belt is aproximately three inches wide. * The belt consists of three horizontal pieces. This effect can be created by joining three strips of leather, or by cutting or embossing two deep lines in a single strip of leather. * Two rectangular silver pieces adorn the center strip on the front of the belt. * The silver rectangles are approximately one inch tall in size and should be divided into fourths. Boots: * Plain black boots with no visable buckles or laces. * Low or flat heel Glove: * A glove made of flat black material should be used to help disguise the "missing" left hand. Hair: * The hair should be silvery white, but not glossy. * The hair should be just long enough to reach the chest in front and the shoulder blades in the back. Headdress: * The headdress should be made of black leather with red trim. * The headdress is fitted closely to the head, with the widow's peak "V" shape in the front coming to a point right between the eyes, about an inch or so above the bridge of the nose. * There is a red cabochon "jewel" set into the center of the headdress about 1/2 inch above the point. * The cabochan must be smoothly rounded, NOT faceted. * There are 6 holes edged in red that go across the top of the headdress. They are squarish in shape. * The third "hole" on each side of the headdress is where the "pig tails" come out. There should be 2 "holes" on the top & 3 on each side. * The headdress should cover the costumer's ears. * For a secrure fit, the headdress can fasten behind behind the head, under the hair. * There are 6 "hairbands" total, 3 on each side, forming "pig tails". They graduate in size from largest to smallest. They have red bands on the top and bottom of each hairband, aprrox 1/8th of an inch wide. A Darth Traya Costume Should Have: (These costume elements are highly recommended, but are not required.) Makeup: * Makeup should be used to create a pale skinned look. (Not pure white!) * The lipstick should be a dark grape or burgundy in tone. * There shoudl be pinkish shadows under the eyes. * A light charcoal gray color runs from the lash lines to eyebrows. * The eyebrows are gray-black in tone, and are darker than the hair. Lightsaber: * The lightsaber should be based on the KOTOR II style. * Darth Traya may carry from one to three lightsabers. * If bladed, the blade(s) must be either red or purple. * Unaltered FX sabers are not acceptable. Contact or Scelera lenses: * Black contacts or full scelera lenses to reproduce the solid black of Darth Traya's eyes. .

. Hello, everyone. Another year has come, and once again we must pay for our forum's domain name and web hosting service. When the boards crashed in January we moved to a new web host which is considerably more economical than our old host... but the fees do still add up! Our expenses for 2008 include: * Domain renewal - $20 * One year of forum and gallery hosting - $119 ------------------ Total: $139 In January I paid for 2008's hosting service in full. I've been meaning ever since to repeat the yearly request for donations, but hadn't gotten around to it yet. I just found the web host receipt while I was cleaning off my desk, though... so now I'm finally going to ask while I've got a reminder sitting here in front of me! If anyone is willing and able to help support our forum expenses for 2008, your donation would be greatly appreciated. Any amount would help. Please send me a PM if you would like to donate to our hosting fund, and I will give you the necessary paypal information. (Carolyn, you're not allowed to send funds this year. You donated more than the rest of us last year, so we need a chance to catch up with you, o' wonderful generous one!) Thank you, Pam

. Viqi Shesh Senator Viqi Shesh of Kuat was a member of the Republic Senate during the initial stages of the Yuuzhan Vong invasion. Early on in the invasion, Viqi manipulated her way onto the defense subcommittee and then when the war began to go against the New Republic, found a way to become a spy for the Yuuzhan Vong. She was tasked with kidnapping Ben Skywalker, and after failing, was given a second opportunity, which also failed. During this attempt, Viqi Shesh?s ship was shot down by Mara Jade Skywalker, leaving her stranded on Coruscant. Viqi Shesh met her end when confronted by members of Wraith Squadron. Faced with the choice of either living out the rest of her life in prison with no power, or death, Shesh chose to leap out of a window to her death. Note: This character does not meet the current "3 References" rule for Star Wars expanded universe characters. While she has appeared in multiple novels, there is only one LFL approved image of her costume, and it does not show the back of her costume. The character was accepted for 501st membership before the 3 References rule became enforced, however, and has thus become a "grandfathered" character. (Grandfathering is an exemption based on how things were before a new rule came into effect.) Visual Reference Sources These are the sources for LFL image resources. The purpose of this section is to show costumers where the character has appeared so far, and to tell them where they can look to get more information about the characters. Book Titles - Star Wars: The New Essential Guide to Characters. Page 148 Official Background Information Sources This is a listing of links or sources that will provide more information about the character. They may or may not have images. Star Wars Books - Star Wars: The New Essential Guide to Characters. Pages 148, 149. - Star Wars: The New Essential Chronology. Page 211, 219 Star Wars Novels - Agents of Chaos II: Jedi Eclipse - Enemy Lines I: Rebel Dream - Enemy Lines II: Rebel Stand - Star by Star - Balance Point Unofficial Background Information Sources NOTE: While wiki sources can be interesting and informative to read, they should NOT be considered accurate sources for character backgrounds or costume images due to the fact that anyone can go in and edit the text or images, regardless of accuracy. - Wookiepedia Entry for Viqi Shesh http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Viqi_Shesh - Completely Unofficial Star Wars Encyclopedia Entry for Viqi Shesh http://theforce.net/swenc/newdescr.asp? ... 2741&tab=d .

. Prince Xizor Xizor was the Falleen head of the intergalactic criminal syndicate Black Sun. He worked from Coruscant to further his empire. His family was killed when an Imperial weapons facility had a malfunction, releasing a biological weapon into his home city. Darth Vader made the decision to destroy the city from orbit rather than attempt any sort of rescue, leading to Xizor?s long running feud with the Dark Lord of the Sith. Xizor was killed in the destruction of his skyhook during the escape of Luke Skywalker, Lando Calrissian and Princess Leia. Xizor Image Gallery http://theflagshipeclipse.com/gallery/t ... p?album=40 Visual Reference Sources These are the sources for LFL image resources. The purpose of this section is to show costumers where the character has appeared so far, and to tell them where they can look to get more information about the characters. Star Wars Databank Entry http://www.starwars.com/databank/charac ... index.html Book Titles - Star Wars The New Essential Chronology. Page 123 - Star Wars The New Essential Guide to Characters. Page 199 - Star Wars The Essential Chronology. Page 58 - Star Wars Encyclopedia. Page 341 - Star Wars The Ultimate Visual Guide. Pages 69, 73, 100 Comic Titles - Shadows of the Empire - Shadows of the Empire Evolution (seen in flashbacks) Trading or Game Card Series - Shadows of the Empire Action Figures or Miniatures - Star Wars Miniatures: Universe Set. Piece --25. Prince Xizor - Hasbro Action Figure: 3.75 inch size. Shadows of the Empire sub-set - Applause Vinyl Statue - Gentle Giant Maquette - Lucasfilm Character Reference Maquette (One of a kind) Novels Wth Character on the Cover - Shadows of the Empire - Star Wars Bounty Hunter Wars: Slave Ship Games That Include the Character - Shadows of the Empire (Nintendo 64 and PC) Insider Magazine Issues - Issue --89 Official Background Information Sources This is a listing of links or sources that will provide more information about the character. They may or may not have images. Star Wars Books - Star Wars Encyclopedia. Page 341, 342. - Star Wars New Essential Chronology. Page 96, 111, 121-123, 132, 133. - Star Wars Essential Chronology. Page 34, 51, 58, 59, 68, 174 - Star Wars The New Essential Guide to Characters. Pages 199, 200 - Star Wars Jedi vs. Sith, The Essential Guide to the Force. Pages 71, 72, - Star Wars The Ultimate Visual Guide. Pages 69, 73, 100 Star Wars Novels - Star Wars: Shadows of the Empire - Star Wars The Bounty Hunter Wars: The Mandalorian Armor - Star Wars The Bounty Hunter Wars: Slave Slave - Star Wars The Bounty Hunter Wars: Hard Merchandise Unofficial Background Information Sources NOTE: While wiki sources can be interesting and informative to read, they should NOT be considered accurate sources for character backgrounds or costume images due to the fact that anyone can go in and edit the text or images, regardless of accuracy. - Wookiepedia Entry for Xizor http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Xizor - Wikipedia Entry for Xizor http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xizor - Completely Unofficial Star Wars Encyclopedia Entry for Xizor http://theforce.net/swenc/newdescr.asp? ... 8600&tab=d .

. Clone Emperor After his death on the second Death Star, the Emperor sent his essence through space to Byss where he had prepared several clone bodies for just this possibility. From this new body, the Emperor directed several assaults on the New Republic. He fell in the end because his body failed him again and sabotours left him without any additional bodies to transfer into. Clone Emperor Image Gallery http://theflagshipeclipse.com/gallery/t ... p?album=41 Visual Reference Sources These are the sources for LFL image resources. The purpose of this section is to show costumers where the character has appeared so far, and to tell them where they can look to get more information about the characters. Book Titles - Star Wars Ultimate Visual Guide. Page 112, 113 - Star Wars The Essential Chronology. Page 94 - Star Wars The Essential Guide to Planets and Moons. Page 52 (Byss) - Star Wars Encyclopedia. Page 225 - Star Wars Jedi vs. Sith. The Essential Guide to the Force. Page 142. - Star Wars. The Essential Guide to Characters. Page 125. Comic Titles - Star Wars Dark Empire series. - Star Wars Dark Empire II series. - Star Wars Empire?s End (2 issue mini-series) - Star Wars Handbook Volume 3. Dark Empire Action Figures or Miniatures - Hasbro 3.75 inch action figure from Expanded Universe sub-set. Insider Magazine Issues - Issue --83. Official Background Information Sources This is a listing of links or sources that will provide more information about the character. They may or may not have images. Star Wars Databank Entry for the Clone Emperor http://www.starwars.com/databank/charac ... ine/?id=eu (No picture) Star Wars Books - Star Wars The Essential Chronology. Pages 90-97 - Star Wars The New Essential Chronology. Pages 155-158 - Star Wars Encyclopedia. Pages 224, 225. - Star Wars The Essential Guide to Characters. Pages 122-125 (A part of the Palpatine article.) - Star Wars The New Eessential Guide to Characters. Pages 125-127 (A part of the Palpatine article) Unofficial Background Information Sources NOTE: While wiki sources can be interesting and informative to read, they should NOT be considered accurate sources for character backgrounds or costume images due to the fact that anyone can go in and edit the text or images, regardless of accuracy. - Wookiepedia Entry for Clone Emperor http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Palpatin ... 311_ABY.29 - Wikipedia Entry for Clone Emperor http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palpatine (Information about Clone Emperor contained under Star Wars Literature Heading.) .