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Showing results for tags 'A womans perspective'.
Found 7 results
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I ordered a Deluxe Darth Revan from My Wicked Armor. I opted not to get the shirt with the order. Since I'm a woman I was concerned about how the piping would lay. I couldn't find any women's styles that would work, but I found a men's long sleeve shirt with a mock turtleneck that was the same black hue and sheen as the balaclava. This shirt is a bit warm, but it is designed to keep you dry. (Walter Hagen Redmond l/s golf polo pure black 41361476 from Dick's Sporting Goods To determine the placement for the piping, I put the front and back armor on and measured where I needed the piping to cross my chest. I determined my piping needed to lay about 4" below the bottom of the collar seam. I originally planned to use pre-made polyester piping, but I personally found it a bit difficult to work with. When it came time to pin it in place, it tended to move easily and roll into a wavy line instead of a straight horizontal line. It is designed to be inserted into a hem or a slit in the fabric, and I didn't want to cut into my shirt in case I needed to adjust the placement. Someone else might have better luck with the pre-made piping, but I decided to use something more cooperative. I took a polyester slip that I have that is a match for the hue and sheen of the shirt. It hangs above the knee and was a good length to cut enough material out to make some piping. I cut a strip about 3" wide from the slip along the vertical seam to make it easy to measure. Then, on the side of the fabric away from the seam, I folded the fabric 1" and pinned it in place to sew. I sewed a 1/4" seam into the pinned fabric. I trimmed the sewn fabric leaving enough room to fold the fabric over after making the first seam onto the shirt. To get the piping placement, I measured up from the even line of the bottom hem of the shirt, not down from the collar hem and top of the sleeves. I measured the vertical length of the shirt from the bottom of the collar seam down to the bottom of the shirt hem, then deducted 4" from that measurement to determine how many inches up from the bottom hem of the shirt to place the piping. I pinned the piping material in place. I sewed the fabric in place. I folded the seam over and re-pinned it to sew the final seam. I sewed a seam right along the lower folded edge. My shirt now has piping where I needed it. http://www.mywickedarmor.com/
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- a womans perspective
- add shirt piping
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I ordered the Deluxe Darth Revan from My Wicked Armor. The suspended bands holding the large O ring were made out of painted vinyl. I tore one of the edges while taking the armor on and off trying to adjust the fit. Not a fault of the the quality, but rather due to my not being as careful as I should. I was interested in adding some length anyhow to give myself more flexibility with the fit and suspension of the large O ring. With that, I asked a saddle maker to make some new strap pieces for me out of leather with Velcro attached to the backside of the long pieces. I only replaced the suspension straps and left the original dark pieces that are adjacent to the adornment lighter silver pieces. I kept the 6" length on the long pieces and increased the short pieces to 3 3/4". He tried to give me a sprayed color match to the original dark grey, but they came out too light. This meant painting the pieces. Lucky for me, my mom is an artist and has loads of metallic paints. She made a mixture of Folk Art Metallic Sequin Black and Decoart Dazzling Metallic Shimmering Silver to get the right shade. http://www.mywickedarmor.com/ http://www.plaidonline.com/folkart-metallics-2-oz/58/product.htm?keyword=sequin%20black%20paint https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=75b4e90e3a6be765d9ccda1914c1671c& To make painting and drying easy, I used wire coat hangers, untwisting the wires away from the hanger hooks. Both ends of the short straps and one end of the long straps were folded under to create a gap to attach to the small rings on the belt (attached later and described in Part III.) I slid the straps onto the wire through the gaps in the folds and reattached the end of the hanger wire to the hanger hook. I bent the hanger wires to make small dips to prevent the straps from sliding. The straps were sponge-painted while they were hanging on the wires and the hangers were hung up to let them dry. (This photo was from the first attempt of paint mix which was too black, but just showing the drying method.) After the right mix, here's how they looked after they dried. (Lighting better on comparison photo below.) In comparison to the original pieces, these are a fairly good match. (The original vinyl piece is on the bottom right with small ring attached. An original piece is also connected to the large O ring.) Due to the saddle maker's attempts as well as my own attempts to get a good color match, I do have more paint on these new straps than what is needed. I realize this may cause some stretching or stiffness in the leather, and time will tell me how they hold up. I did need to be careful how they lay when stored to avoid misshaping.
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- longer revan belt straps
- a womans perspective
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I ordered the Deluxe Revan from My Wicked Armor. I replaced the belt straps with longer leather pieces as a preference, and at the same time, replaced the original chrome key chain rings with 1" nickel plated brass rings from Buckle Guy. I found versions with an open gate, which made painting the new straps easy and will help with future repair, repainting or replacement of the leather straps. I must mention that they have some weight to them, and time will tell whether they are too heavy and will stretch the belt leather prematurely. http://www.mywickedarmor.com/ http://www.buckleguy.com/ors16-1-nickel-plate-o-ring-opens-with-screws-solid-brass-ll/?page_context=category&faceted_search=0 Below is a comparison of the four replacement rings and the original ring attached to the belt piece. What's nice about these is they have a small opening that can be removed to place on the straps. The screws are pretty tiny and I needed my electronics tools to work with them. I dropped them several times and nearly lost one to my heat vent! Here's the open gate. The gate is small enough to hide inside the fold of the strap, but just in case it moved, I made sure to put the screw side to the inside. It was a bit snug getting them inserted. Screws reattached: Here's the side facing out with the gate hidden: Here's all four inserted. (The short strap looks wavy in this photo due to the curve of the cushion.) Here's my new belt:
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- a womans perspective
- revan belt rings
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I bought the Deluxe Revan from My Wicked Armor. I wanted the back armor as described in "optional accessories" in the costume standard. The commissioned armor pieces have straps attached on the front and back armor that are designed to tie together over the shoulders. I added Dritz 3/4" parachute buckles with contour shape to the straps to hold my armor adjustment and to make dressing easier. http://www.mywickedarmor.com/ After determining my placement, I pinned the straps in place. I placed two clothing clips on the straps to hold them and then placed two more to mark approximately where I wanted to connect the buckles so that they would be hidden from view. The two higher clips sit where I wanted the buckles to connect. (Note-shirt in photos is not my costume shirt.) With the armor not secured at the sides, I lifted the armor off, keeping the clips in place. I then determined the length I needed for the straps, considering the added 2" length of the buckles. I ended up increasing the front length to 7" instead of 5" of strap length. I kept the back lengths at 2". Before sewing, I made sure the contour of the buckles faced the correct way. I put in some stitches by hand to keep the buckles in place, then used the sewing machine. I won't need to pull the fabric of the straps through to make adjustments since I measured where I want them. I can now easily clip the buckles to hold the armor together and slip both front and back armor pieces on over my head.- 4 replies
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- connecting revan armor
- revan armor
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I purchased the Deluxe Revan from My Wicked Armor. The mask has two elastic straps coming out from each side that tie onto or slip through a third elastic strap with a loop that comes off of the top/forehead of the mask. I attached a Dritz 1/2" parachute buckle onto the side straps to keep my fit adjustment in place and to make it easier to put on and take off the mask. http://www.mywickedarmor.com/ I also wanted to add strap adjustors, such as these on this tank top below: I had another top like this one that was getting worn out, and the adjustor was the width I needed. It was used for parts. I only used one of the strap adjustors. Incorporating the circular adjustor was not necessary, as I had plenty of elastic strap to feed through. Before attaching the buckle, I tied the mask straps on to get an approximate measurement. I then made adjustments considering the width of the buckle and allowing one strap to feed through the looped elastic further than the other so my buckle would sit to one side of the loop and not directly inside of it. I fed the end of one strap through the female end of the buckle, folding over the fabric and pinning it in place. I later hand-stitched a seam across the elastic strap. In the photo below, I fed blue thread through the strap to show placement. I fed the other strap first through one opening in the strap adjustor, through one opening in the male end of the buckle, looped it back through the other opening in the buckle and then through the other opening in the adjustor. The buckle is designed to grab and hold the fabric, so there's a double-hold on the elastic from both the buckle and the adjustor. Here's a side view of the buckle and adjustor: Here's the attached buckle disconnected: Here you can see how the connected buckle straps feed through the looped elastic piece. With my straps adjusted and the buckle connected, I can pull the mask on carefully. I opted to add a stitch into the strap with the adjustor to keep the elastic in place. I still have a little room to tighten or loosen the strap, but now I don't have to worry about the strap moving out of the adjustor and my mask coming off. I do have to remember to be careful when removing the mask and to either disconnect the buckle or hold the buckle if I lift it off to prevent the buckle from hitting my visor. I have not glued any padding inside of my mask. I purchased the under mask, and this alleviates any need for padding. It is comfortable, moves air and steam away from my lens and supports the weight of the mask. All I need now are two cosmetic wedges slid under my balaclava at the hairline of my forehead where the top of the mask rests. I can toss them after use, or wash them out. I keep a bag of them on hand and they work great. They absorb moisture too. Here's my under mask. (I came a little untucked at this troop but it's a good one to see the mask.)
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I purchased the Deluxe Revan from My Wicked Armor. The cape has long straps attached that are designed to tie to loops that are attached to the inside of the front armor. I made a modification to allow me to dress without help and connect the straps more easily. I wanted to have straps connected to the inside of the armor that reach up to attach to the cape instead. I wanted to utilize D rings, such as with this fabric belt, with the D rings attached to short straps on the top of the cape. I have another thread which covers putting the cape on here: I found I had this bag stashed in the closet with a strap the same width and similar look as the cape straps. It also had swivel hooks attached to the ends, which saved me some sewing. The strap had 43" of length, which was plenty for my two new straps. I cut it in half, giving me two straps, each one having a swivel hook. NOTE: webbed straps need to either be cut with a hot knife or sealed with a flame across the cut to protect the strap from fraying. A moment near the flame is enough, and too much can pull the strap out of shape. I connected the swivels to the loops inside the front armor piece. If I didn't use swivels, the strap would have been attached to an O ring and stitched in place. I purchased Dritz 3/4" D rings to attach to the cape. (I forgot to get a photo with the D rings still in the package.) I attached the D rings to the cape straps and prepared to measure length and sew. I measured 1" away from the edge of the cape and pinned the straps in place, then hand-stitched to secure them. I did not trim them, in case I need to adjust the length. After stitching, here's the inside view. The length can be hidden inside the cape, trimmed or pinned to obscure. Here's the outside view: I leave the long straps connecting to the loops inside the front armor draped over the front armor when I put it on. That way, the straps are easy to lift up and feed through the D rings. I can put my cape on without help now, and could connect it without looking. I can easily adjust the length as needed if I get different boots. http://mywickedarmor.com/
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I bought the Deluxe Darth Revan from My Wicked Armor. The red vertical drape or sash is designed to fold over and pin in place at the proper length. I store my black and red sashes hanging with my other soft cloths, so I wanted a method to attach the fold to the back of the sash that didn't need to be re-pinned and that was still adjustable, and not have to pin the edge of the black sash each time. RED SASH I attached sew-on Velcro to two narrow strips of pre-shrunk cotton, a bit narrower than the width of the red sash. I stitched a small square of cotton to the inside and outside of the foam, as I was able to reach my hand inside the opening. This gave me a mid-point for support and I tacked one strip across the underside of the sash where the top of the fabric would fold over to meet the Velcro. I tacked it at this midpoint and at the edges, stitching to the folded hem of the red fabric and not to the foam. The foam would not be strong enough (as I learned from an earlier method of a button and loop elastic that failed.) I tacked the other strip along the top of the red sash, tucking the open ends of the fabric over. Tacking the fabric pieces on instead of sewing the Velcro directly helps protect the fabric when it comes time to replace the Velcro. I'm then removing the tack and not the entire stitch from my red fabric. BLACK SASH After finding my measurement, I folded the end of the black sash inward towards the seam to achieve the tapering of the other end. I stitched the point in place, and tacked the folds in place. I then stitched sew-on Velcro in place to match the other end of the sash. No more pins. I kept dropping them at troops anyway! I use a garment bag and a multi-level hanger and just loop the sashes over one of the levels for transport and storage. http://mywickedarmor.com/
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- darth revan red sash
- revan red vertical drape
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