Darth Malgus

[Guest Anonymous]

I don't know if you've seen it, and I can't vouch for its accuracy, but there is a Pepakura design made for the breath mask. If you go to the gallery on the main Pepakura site and search "Star Wars" it comes up close to the top. If it is accurate you could use the techniques the Halo costumers do and use that. Just a thought.

[Volund Starfire]

There are actually three Malgus Pep files running around. I have all three and am not too impressed with them. One of the files is actually a low detail Clone Airborne (beehive) helmet that is skinned with the Darth Malgus head. The second is based on the original Malgus game breath mask and is very low detail. The third is based on the most recent Malgus in-game trailer breath mask and is higher detail but still is a little lacking. I am including a cope of the third one below.

 

At the moment, I am in discussions with someone who does with pepakura what I do with dissections. I'm scratching his back with some costume pictures from the trailers and he is returning the favor with the Malgus breath mask and gauntlets.

 

As for the Halo techniques, it is from the 405th that I learned the use of foam for armoring. However, because of the increased detail of the breath mask and gauntlets, I am planning on pepping them both in sintra. Not the 1/8-inch sintra, but the thin "Beware of Womprat" signs that most hardware stores carry. Reinforce them with bondo on the inside, sand it down, and boom. If that works for the breath mask, I might try it for a Halo helmet and more.

 

[Guest Anonymous]

The rest will be fairly simple with the materials I am using. Mostly, the costume will be made of sintra and EVA foam, as both are easily accessible, cheap, and take to costuming like a moth to a flame.

My first question is on the EVA foam: I'm familiar with the workout mats (not for costuming though) or would you get a different type of "raw" EVA foam? How do you plan on "rounding" the edges of the "EVA foam strips" that wrap around the legs/pants and rib cage area, as each strip appears to have a rolled round edge on the end? Or if you consider the strips as one large patch of foam with rounded grooves, how would you "router" out the grooves? What tool would be used? Also they appear to have a semi-gloss black paint job, what kind of paint (for EVA foam) would give that look that would stick? Like I said I'm a plastics and bondo man, so I'm not to experienced with working with EVA foam. One other question is how to attach the EVA foam to the cloth pants?

 

At the moment, I have a couple of friends working on pepakura models of the gauntlets and the breath mask, the two most difficult pieces. Once they get done, I will probably be making them of sintra and reinforcing them like an Imperial Garrison.

The irony is I thought the rebreather mask and gauntlets would be the easier parts. For the gauntlets I was thinking of just layering small thin strips of plastics, and after a lot of sanding, cutting, carving, gluing and shaping with bondo, you could probably get the shape and look. In theory you could even cast that part, or use it as a master to vacuum form pieces. For the rebreather I was going to dissect my 3m respirator:

then start gluing and cutting it up as well ^^^^

 

Once again I'm coming in cold so my ideas may have been proved to not be feasible. I'm definitely looking forward to ideas that have been researched already and hope to even try them out sometime soon! Please keep the good info coming!

[Volund Starfire]

My first question is on the EVA foam: I'm familiar with the workout mats (not for costuming though) or would you get a different type of "raw" EVA foam?

Good question. I plan to use the EVA foam interconnecting mats as well as craft foam in 1/2-inch, 1/4-inch, 1/8-inch, and 1/16-inch. The 1/2-inch mats can be purchased in groups of six 2'x2' squares from most stores that stock sporting gear. The rest can be found in craft stores.

 

How do you plan on "rounding" the edges of the "EVA foam strips" that wrap around the legs/pants and rib cage area, as each strip appears to have a rolled round edge on the end?

The thing about EVA foam is that it holds hot glue like a sponge, literally. I am looking at making it in a couple of layers. The lower layer will be one solid piece of 1/4-inch foam. The top layer will be individual strips of 1/4-inch foam that is rounded on the top edges to give it that appearance you can see in the shots.

 

What tool would be used?

The tools that I plan to use I found over at the 405th (Halo costume site). Pretty much, you use normal sintra/PVC foam board tools, but add a hot knife to cut it.

 

Also they appear to have a semi-gloss black paint job, what kind of paint (for EVA foam) would give that look that would stick?

EVA foam is easy to paint if you know what you are doing. The first this is to use a heat gun to seal the top. You just run the heat gun over it and you can visibly see the material change slightly. After that, you are going to want to paint it with spray plastidip. That will seal it and give it some strength so it won't warp under extreme heat. After that, all you need to do is use Krylon fusion. The fusion will hold to the plastidip. You could primer it first, but use two or more layers of primer and start sanding it after the second layer. Finally, give it the appropriate finish and call it good.

 

One other question is how to attach the EVA foam to the cloth pants?

Velcro. Plain and simple. Use adhesive velcro on the EVA foam and sew-on velcro on the costume.

 

For the gauntlets I was thinking of just layering small thin strips of plastics, and after a lot of sanding, cutting, carving, gluing and shaping with bondo, you could probably get the shape and look. In theory you could even cast that part, or use it as a master to vacuum form pieces.

I was thinking of this, but I'm not good enough with this kind of work to look at it, personally. I can do sliced weapons, but not quite up to slicing gauntlets yet.

 

For the rebreather I was going to dissect my 3m respirator

I looked into this, myself. The only problem is weight distribution and connection. Most respirators use a two-point connection and don't fit well if they are only held on around the base. What my friend is looking at is a system to hold it on around the base in such a way as to hold it tightly to the nose, as well. Basically, levering it on the nose to hold it on.

 

Once again I'm coming in cold so my ideas may have been proved to not be feasible. I'm definitely looking forward to ideas that have been researched already and hope to even try them out sometime soon! Please keep the good info coming!

Oh, just wait. I'm in the middle of a more in-depth dissection that I will be starting to build (as in actually putting pieces together) soon.

[Guest Anonymous]

The thing about EVA foam is that it holds hot glue like a sponge, literally. I am looking at making it in a couple of layers. The lower layer will be one solid piece of 1/4-inch foam. The top layer will be individual strips of 1/4-inch foam that is rounded on the top edges to give it that appearance you can see in the shots.

Ahhh, ok I think I understand. I still hope to see some progress pictures when you start. I think a visual will seal the deal for me.

 

EVA foam is easy to paint if you know what you are doing. The first this is to use a heat gun to seal the top. You just run the heat gun over it and you can visibly see the material change slightly. After that, you are going to want to paint it with spray plastidip. That will seal it and give it some strength so it won't warp under extreme heat. After that, all you need to do is use Krylon fusion. The fusion will hold to the plastidip. You could primer it first, but use two or more layers of primer and start sanding it after the second layer. Finally, give it the appropriate finish and call it good.

Wow! That's a well detailed process. I'd like to experiment with it soon. It does make sense, my only worry would be when bending the painted EVA (to conform to the pants/torso), if the paint would crack. But like you said "if you know what you are doing" it should hold up. I'll definitely try this out on some test pieces to hone my skills.

 

I was thinking of this, but I'm not good enough with this kind of work to look at it, personally. I can do sliced weapons, but not quite up to slicing gauntlets yet.

I have to admit, I could probably make a pretty good original with this process (layering strips of plastic bondo and carving), but I've never actually vacuum formed, and the piece is too complex for "small parts molding". This would only be necessary if Malgus costuming became really popular and if someone wanted to be a source of gauntlets, etc.

 

Oh, just wait. I'm in the middle of a more in-depth dissection that I will be starting to build (as in actually putting pieces together) soon.

Make sure to put me on that list! I definitely want to follow your progress.

[Guest Aysel]

to your comment about bending the EVA foam, it's a thermal plastic like sintra so you bend it before you paint it. Although I have bent already painted pieces of sintra that were painted with krylon fusion (not really recommended but it had to be done) if you want to experiment go to a craft store and find some craft foam (it's EVA) and go to town, it's cheap and they sell it in packs of sheets

[DarthGM]

I hae been watching this thread with great interest. Your work and ideas on how to build the costume seem to be something that I can do, and look forward to any WIP pics of your costume as they develop.

 

Malgus needs to be made, man.

 

[Guest Anonymous]

Good video of a great Darth Malgus costume:

 

[Twi'lek Pam]

I certainly have the build for this.

 

 

I thought the same thing when you posted about it on the legion board! Not to mention that intimidating gaze....

 

Welcome to Flagship!

 

Pam

[The Clone Emperor]

On a day with less bumping into things with his head.

 

Also of interest;

There was publicity stunt/ flash mob in Times Square, this month in which Darth Malgus stole the show;

It was very cool to see what this character might look like fully realized as a fan costume.

There appears to be more going on here than painting the head. Dare I say it, I believe this individual is wearing a full head appliance.

[Volund Starfire]

His armor looked really good, but it was still off enough for me to shake my head. Now that I have played the game, I have a better idea of the way the armor is supposed to look and move (seeing the in-game character helped a great deal).

 

I have been working on a dissection 2.0 for this and it will be posted soon after the New Year. If things go well for Aysel and I with our helmet bag sales, then the actual build will be starting soon after.

[Volund Starfire]

One of the things that I am fairly well known for are my costume dissections. To that end, here is my dissection v2.0 of the Darth Malgus costume based on the Cinematic Trailer Model created by Alessandro Baldasseroni. I will begin with the soft parts of the armor, then move on to the firm parts (I’ll explain), and end with the hard parts.

 

 

 

 

SOFT PARTS

These parts are entirely cloth of one form or another.

 

 

UNDERSHIRT

The undershirt is primarily used for the neck and sleeves and appears to be based on a black loose-fitting underarmor shirt. It is made of a black shiny fabric such as underarmor, not leather, and appears to be loose but form fitting. Detail lines are sewn into the neck to appear like layered pillow-tucks. The arms have ½-inch quilting lines down from the shoulder to the wrist. It does not appear to be actual quilting, just the lines. It will include stirrups for the hands. There is a snap on the back of the hands to keep the gloves on and velcro sewn along the forearm to secure the gauntlets.

 

 

VEST

The vest is gray vinyl and has an accordion-fold detail up the front between the chest armor and the torso padding. The front has a false seam that looks like a hidden zipper, but is not. It will zip up the back to close. The accordion detail is made with a series of pockets that are glued under the front that have stiff sheets of sintra or plastic canvas that are slid in and it is backed with a piece of elastic to keep the folds from flattening. The upper part of the chest, as well as most of the back, will be made with mesh similar to Vader bodysuits. The back of the vest, from the side seam to the mesh, has a black 1/2-inch hexagonal pattern painted onto it. It has very short sleeves which have grommets to connect to the bicep armor. It will include strips of Velcro around the body to secure the torso padding as well as to secure the armor.

 

 

CAPE

The cape appears to have the same texture as monks cloth and connects to the armor under the shoulder plates. It hangs onto the floor by a few inches. It has a hood built into the neck that can be pulled over the head without disturbing the rest of the cape. The edges of the hood are free of the cape, suggesting that it is sewn to the back of the neck only. The cape includes a set of grommets to Chicago screw/bolt to the back of the armor under the shoulders.

 

 

GLOVES

The gloves are wrist-length leather gloves with small leather patches located over the knuckles. The gloves are only pull-on, having no means of securing them around the wrist. They have side seams that are typical of driving gloves. Three grommets on the back of each hand will be used to secure the hand armor’s Chicago screws. A snap will be sewn under the top of the wrist to secure it to the undershirt.

 

 

TROUSERS

The trousers are gray denim and have a 1-inch quilting down the leg from the waist to the knee, similar to the Darth Vader trousers. The shin has elastic across the forward quarter to keep it tight across the calf, as only the calf is visible. Velcro is sewn around the waist to hold the torso padding in place, along the front of the crotch and top of the butt to hold the cod and butt padding in place, on the thighs to hold the thigh padding, on the knees to secure the knee armor in place, and down the inside and outside of the calf to hold the calf padding. A set of suspenders will keep the trousers up and a set of stirrups will keep them tucked into the boots.

 

 

BOOTS

The boots are made from black leather and come up to the mid-calf. There is a black detail strip that rises from the toe of the boot half way up to top of the foot. There is a black heavy locking zipper on either side of the boot to secure them. The sole is a low boot sole with detail lines carved into it. The boot has a piece of elastic on the back to ensure a good fit (much in the same way as the sides of the Boba Fett or stormtrooper boots). The top of the boot fits over the calf padding. It will also have grommets for the armor connection.

 

 

 

 

FIRM PARTS

These parts are primarily flexible, but are not entirely considered soft parts nor hard parts as they are neither cloth nor armor. They will be primarily made of craft foam and will generally be painted with a flat finish.

 

 

BICEP PADDING

The biceps appear to be made of 3/8-inch firmed foam (a 1/4-inch thick base with a 1/8-inch façade). It has detail lines cut into the façade on the front and back and is formed around the biceps. The black padding appears to be 1/4-inch thick foam strips that have a pair of detail lines cut down them vertically. The entire set connects to the vest with a pair of grommets and Chicago screws. The main part is gray with a gloss finish (similar to the vest) and the pads are black with a semi-gloss finish.

 

 

TORSO PADDING

The torso padding appears to be 1/2-inch thick foam. The base will be a 1/4-inch piece that is uncut with a façade of a 1/4-inch pieces glued to the top. The strips look to be 1½-inches wide. The three top strips have rounded ends and velcro to the vest and back armor. The two pieces under those are solid and wrap around the body, connecting in the rear. Below that is a strip that is 4.5-inches wide with a Velcro strip along it for the belt. The middle of the back is connected together with side release buckles (including straps that are glued under the entire center piece) to secure it and has a piece in the center to cover the buckles.

 

The cod armor has cut-through layers to give it the inset details over the base. It is also shaped to curve around the edges and contour along the crotch. The butt armor connects to the center piece used to secure the belt around the waist. The belt piece, cod, and butt armor have velcro under them to secure them to the trousers.

 

There are carved detail lines in the façade of all the padding. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish.

 

 

THIGH PADDING

The thigh padding is 3/8-inch thick foam. The base is 1/4-inch with a 1/8-inch thick façade. It is designed in faux strips and has vertical detail lines cut into the top. The base in the rear has two holes cut into it. The front of the thigh padding has a pair of holes cut down through the façade in the top and bottom. It secures to the trousers with Velcro. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish.

 

 

CALF PADDING

The calf padding appears to be 1/2-inch thick foam; two layers of 1/4-inch foam. The façade has faux strips with vertical details lines and holes cut into it. The back has a hole through it to show the calf of the trousers. It has elastic on the front to hold it closed with Velcro and Velcro to secure the shin armor. The bottom tucks into the boots. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish.

 

 

 

 

HARD PARTS

These parts are actual hard armor. I mostly be building them out of sintra (PVC foam board), but some of the pieces will use foam.

 

 

SHOULDER ARMOR

The shoulder armor is 1/2-inch thick and made of four layers of 1/8-inch sintra. The center two layers are solid. The top and under layers are separated as shown in the illustration, have their face edges rounded slightly, and glued onto the base with detail lines cut appropriately into the sides.. The two detail blocks on the top of the shoulder is made from four more layers of 1/8-inch sintra with a detail line cut into the sides and separate pieces across the top of the detail line. The top piece of the flap has a hole drilled into it on the front and back of the shoulder. The shoulders connect to the chest armor with Chicago screws. It is painted black with metallic aluminum weathering and given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

CHEST & BACK ARMOR

The chest armor is made of four layers of 1/8-inch sintra. The top piece will be cut into sections based on the images above, have the face corners rounded, and glued back into place. There is a hole in the face that is specifically for the lights. With another next to it that has a pattern etched onto it before it is reinserted. The two pieces of red acrylic will be back lit by LEDs.

 

The shoulders will have nylon strapping under the armor with a set of grommets for the cape to Chicago screw to. Additionally, the shoulder armor will Chicago screw into these same holes.

 

The back is made similar to the front, but will be made with a 3/8-inch piece of foam with a 1/8-inch foam façade. There are several detail pieces with holes cut through them as appropriate. The center hole reveals a set of holes cut through the next 1/8-inch piece under it with a 1/8-inch piece glued on top of it. There is a 1/4-inch piece near the top with a pair of screws or caps under it. There are three 1/8-inch pad pieces on either side that Velcro to the sides of the vest. There are holes through the 1/8-inch top layer for the torso padding to Velcro into. There is a Y-piece that is 1/4-inch thick and made with layers of 1/16-inch foam sheets. Finally, there is a 1/2-inch thick box on the lower right side. The bottom of the back armor also velcros under the torso padding.

 

Around the neck is a ring made of 1/2-inch thick foam. It has a raise on the front and back with detail boxes cut into them. The front and back have small rectangular depressions on either side of the raised piece, but the front has red LED backlit acrylic on either side.

 

There is a sintra overlay on the central part. The main part is made from two 16-inch sheets. There is a 1/8-inch circle on the center and another (with a 1/16-inch topper) on the other side of the bottom. The central top ring is made from a 1/8-inch piece with a 1/16-inch topper set in a hole. The central top circle is made with two 1/8-inch pieces with a 1/16-inch topper.

 

The sintra will have a piece of foam under it to pad it against the body. The battery pack for the LEDs would be housed in the black box on the back of the costume. It will be painted gray and black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to the main chest and back to show further weathering details.

 

 

GAUNTLETS

The gauntlets will be made in four pieces. The two side pieces will be made of 1/8-inch sintra that is bent at angles to form around the arm. A piece of 1/16-inch sintra will go over this as a façade with appropriate cut-outs to mimic the details in the picture. Additionally, the sintra base will have details etched into it. A pair of white acrylic will be on either side and back-lit with LEDs. Opposite the LEDs will be a set of magnets under the sides to secure the bottom part of the gauntlet.

 

The top piece will be made from 1/8-inch sintra with a raised detail, also made of 1/8-inch sintra. It will also include the 1/16-inch façade that will have various cut-outs for the details. The back will include several pieces of white and red acrylic that are lit with LEDs. Most of these pieces will have various characters on them as appropriate. It will be permanently attached to the side pieces with Chicago screws, but it will be loose enough to allow them to spread to allow the arm in.

 

The bottom piece will be made in a similar fashion to the top, but will not include the lights. Also, it will have a set of four magnets built into it under the front and back corners to secure the gauntlet together.

 

Velcro will be lined on the sides to secure the gauntlet to the sleeve in such a way that the paddles of the top and bottom piece are lined up on either side of the elbow. The battery pack will be stream-line and under the top face of the gauntlet. It will be painted black and given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

 

HAND ARMOR

The hand armor is made of layers of 1/8- and 1/16-inch sintra. It is fairly simple in its construction with detail work built up on it. It secures to the glove with Chicago screws. It will have a small flap of Velcro under it to protect the glove. It is painted black with metallic aluminum weathering and given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

BELT

The belt is made of both foam and sintra. The main part of the belt is made of a 1/4-inch piece of foam. On top of that is a 1/8-inch piece of foam detailing with another that has the buckle detail cut out of it.

 

The buckle and details directly next to the buckle are made with 1/16-inch sintra, layered in some cases, and attached into the foam with Chicago screws. The “pouch” pieces are made with both 1/8-inch and 1/16-inch pieces of sintra and attached similarly.

 

The belt connects in the rear with a pair of side-release buckles. There is also a 1/4-inch thick flap that velcroes onto the rear of the belt to hide the buckles. The flap has a 1/8-inch façade with detail lines drawn in it that covers the top of the butt armor. It includes a detail made of sintra that Chicago screws into the flap to cover it.

 

The belt is held to the torso padding with velcro under it. The belt is painted black and given metallic aluminum weathering. The details are painted silver. It is all given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

KNEE ARMOR

The knee armor is made with pieces of 1/8-inch sintra built around a piece of 1/2-inch foam (for comfort). The top and detail face includes a 1/16-inch façade with detail lines. The sintra only extends to the side seams. The piece of foam comes out from under the sintra to wrap around the leg. It includes a 1/8-inch foam façade with detail lines on it. The foam is anchored to the knee armor with Chicago screws and velcroes under the inside-leg part of the armor.

 

The knee piece has Velcro on it to secure it to the trousers. It is painted black and weathered metallic aluminum with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

SHIN ARMOR

The mail part of the shin armor is made using a 1/8-inch plate of sintra bent slightly around the front of the leg. It has a 1/8-inch façade over this with detail lines cut in it. There is another piece on the top of it, as well as a couple of pieces going down the front as further details.

 

There is a piece of ¼-inch foam that wraps around the back of the leg. It is connected to the sintra with Velcro on the outside of the leg and a nylon strap on the inside of the leg.

 

The shin armor secures to the calf padding with two strips of velcro down either side. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

ACHILLES ARMOR

The shin armor is made using layers of 1/8-inch sintra that is shaped and glued together. There is a façade over the base later with holes in it, but those holes are the actual location of the Chicago screws that attach the Achilles armor to the boot. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

BOOT ARMOR

The boot armor is three separate pieces. The top two pieces are made of 1/8-inch sintra layers with a foam base (to protect the boot). They have a layered 1/16-inch detail with detail lines cut into the façade. They attach to the boot with Chicago screws.

 

The wrap-around piece on the back of the boot will be made of two pieces of 1/16-inch form with a detail line cut into the façade. It will attach to the boot with Velcro.

 

They are painted black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.

 

 

 

 

MISC PARTS

These parts aren’t part of the actual costume, but I’ll post them here anyway. They mostly include the FX of the makeup, the lightsaber which I am custom ordering, and the mask that I still have no idea how I am going to do it exactly.

 

 

MASK

The main part of the mask will be made with 1/16-inch sintra as a medium for a pepakura model. For most of the details it will be layered. The silver screens will be aluminum and backed with a light black cloth to help with air circulation. The sections between the horizontal bars on the front of the mouth will likewise be backed with cloth for air circulation. The lights will be red acrylic with LEDs behind them. The LEDs will be cushioned so no light bleeds inside the mask. A fan will be located in front of the mouth for both air circulation and to add a chopped mechanical tone to the voice when I speak.

 

 

LIGHTSABER

The lightsaber will be custom made. It will probably be thicker than it appears in the above picture, but will include all of the details. It will include a MR Force FX batter pack/speaker in the pommel and a red blade. The button on the side will be used for activation/deactivation with the red button used only for decoration. The blades on either side of the emitter will have rounded edges for safety, but still painted as they are shown.

 

 

MAKEUP

The main part of the makeup will be a pair of Sith contacts (yellow in the center and red on the edges). The scars on the cheeks will be accomplished with collodion and some shadowing using makeup. The eyesockets will be darkened with makeup.

 

The baldness and veins will be accomplished using a bald wig. It will extend over the eyebrows and down the sideburns where it will be spirit gummed on. It will have blue yarn glued onto the underside of it in points as well as blue coloring painted lightly onto the underside in points. The back will include a snap to connect to the mask.

[Twi'lek Pam]

I highly recommend that you use a higher quality adhesive for applying the bald cap, such as pros-aide, rather than spirit gum. Spirit gum's at the very low end of the quality spectrum, and it tends to get dry and begin flaking off after an hour or so. When you see somebody with a bald cap that is peeling upward at the edges, that's often spirit gum reaching the end of its lifespan! After all the time that it takes to apply the bald cap, you'll want it to last and look good throughout a day's trooping!

 

Pam

[Guest mdb]

I agree Also you can mix PA with cabosil or buy pre-thickened PA and use it to blend the edges of the appliance. It can make even a very cheap bald cap blend almost seamlessly to skin

 

It also holds on for hours and hours of sweaty trooping. I have come to pull off my Asari appliances and my Shaak Ti bald cap to find everything peels off except the glue that was holding everything in place The one time it failed was when I cut my bald cap too far back and left only 6mm or so of glue around my hairline and I hadn't accounted for the change in balance of my Montral/lekku set so it pulled back.

 

So just to say, yes PA is the one to use. Just make sure to get some Isopropyl Myristate as it will dissolve it without stinging your skin and you can use baby wipes to remove the excess. It is a very oily substance.

Baby oil and Isopropyl Alcohol are an alternative.

[Volund Starfire]

Thank you. I will definitely be doing that rather than the spirit gum. Thanks!

 

Also, I think you both should get gold stars for reading through all that without your eyes bleeding.

[Volund Starfire]

Just to let you know, I have not forgotten about this costume. I am still compiling some of the necessary information that I need in order to properly design/build it. The problem is that my sources are some of the best in the industry and are thus getting swamped with Con Season beginning. However, I have assurances from the Chancellor that the ambassadors arrived... I mean, I have assurances from my designer that the project will be finished on schedule.

 

Some people have asked how I plan to do the lightsaber, since the image shows it to be a little slim. Well, I plan to expand it slightly to fit the necessary saber guts. I'll be going through a reputable saber builder and asking him to use TCSS parts for it (I like the brightness of their LEDs and the strength of their battle blades).

 

Here are a couple of the images of the pepakura that Fierfek (his screen name) is making for the Darth Malgus. Also, a couple of the images were some that I have found, but I cannot for the life of me remember the artists who designed them (if you know, please PM me and I will post that information.

 

 

As you can see, both have good details on their own parts, so I plan to combine them with a couple of small customizations. Currently, he is working on the chest piece and gauntlets for me (as well as a possible full-detail mask).

 

Here's the leg armor that Fierfek designed, as well:

 

And, finally, a shameless plug for him since he is helping me in this and other projects:

Fierfek's Star Wars pepakura file development

[Guest Nihilus]

I can't wait to see how it will look when your finished

[Volund Starfire]

I am hoping that it will look sufficiently intimidating. But, also, like I just stepped out of the game.

 

[Guest Nihilus]

I been wanting to play the game, I did get past to be a tester for it but my damn laptop couldn't support it.. Grrrr..

[Guest Sarah1968]

That would be completely badass - not Nihilus badass - but badass nonetheless!

[Guest Nihilus]

That would be completely badass - not Nihilus badass - but badass nonetheless!

 

I have to agree with you Sarah

[Volund Starfire]

OMG, I've found it!!! Now, I just have to order it!

 

[Guest Anonymous]

Can't wait to see a fully realized Malgus!

[Guest Anonymous]

Looks like there maybe a perfect reference for Darth Malgus! The catch? you'll need $6,000 to buy one:

 

Shideshow Collectibles Life Size Darth Malgus

 

Hopefully a rich guy will get one and take a lot of hi-res pics.

[Guest TK-7100]

Ok...speak up!! Who was Malgus at Comic-Con??? That was fricekn AWESOME!! Post pics!!