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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/29/2023 in Posts

  1. Just a quick update on what's going on with the detachment stuff since it's been a quiet period (not always a bad thing!). 1. We're actively designing merch for a racing shirt, patch, and coin themed for KOTOR 20th based on votes. These will come in the next few months. It is slow due to lack of artists available and, well, life. 2. We're working on 3 New to the Legion CRLs/costumes currently that we're hoping to be released before the end of the term in Feb after updates to the costumes are finished. 3. We were told by LMOs that we had to wait until the end of the season of Ahsoka before submitting requests for assignment of the costumes. But, after the short, "please don't spoil the episode for us" request time, we're submitting for Shin, Baylan, Morgan, Marrok, and all 3 Great Mothers to be assigned to TFE. 4. We're still looking for artists and a new Programs Officer if you're interested/able to assist the Detachment! If you have any other requests or ideas, please feel free to comment or message me!
    5 points
  2. Hi folks, I just wanted to share some of the pics I took during my shooting at the Georges Henri park in Brussels
    3 points
  3. Korbanth has a Savage hilt for sale: https://korbanth.com/empty-double-sided-staff-the-oppressor
    3 points
  4. So close to being done. I need to redo the arm guards and chest armor and shorten the bottom corset pieces.
    3 points
  5. We're about 1.5 weeks away from all 501st elections! This means Legion level, Detachments, Garrisons, Squads, and Outposts! Make sure you are prepared for TFE Detachment elections by ensuring you are listed as the correct Detachment Member rank. Also check with each Detachment to ensure that you fulfill their specific requirements if they are different! For TFE directions, please see here: I will be doing the final update to the 501st roster for TFE on Jan 28th, so please make sure you are correctly listed (your name should be in orange if you are not part of command). Cheers and long live democracy!
    2 points
  6. Started fitting this afternoon. Found this image incredibly helpful. Thanks for posting @DarthValkyria
    2 points
  7. Racing shirt is in the works!
    2 points
  8. There is no embargo on making a costume - if you can provide the reference pictures of the costume from all sides incl. details and such, it should be good to go. You can also message our DL @DarthValkyria and ask on how to
    2 points
  9. @Derek 1) I personally used EVA foam clay and shaped and painted the horns the way I liked. Then I attached the dried foam horns to resin bases using Aves Apoxie Sculpt. 2) The CRL says "made of leather or a material that resembles leather". I'd ask your local GML about this. 3) The silver piping on my vest isn't even piping at all. It's simply leather folded in half and stitched onto the vest. 4) Lightsaber is optional, but so long as the length is believable, I don't think anyone is going to be busting out a measuring tape to call you out. If you have any questions, feel free to DM me or hit me up on Instagram @ozark_maul
    2 points
  10. New forum member here and not yet 501st approved but building the clone wars CRL. I made this on a whim because I was so obsessed with the figure! Figured you might like to see. Would be so cool to have this approved. I even got a shout out from the guys who sculpted it!
    2 points
  11. Thanks LordZedel for clarification - verification. For mine - I use the Etsy neck seal combined with a vest with a v-neck shape to it. Similar look to the bottom pict you reference.
    2 points
  12. If a costume that you want to build is not currently in the Legion roster, you'll be coordinating directly with the Detachment. The order is operations for the process is as such: 1. Contact me with all the references you are able to grab to validate the details of the costume, and an excerpt describing why the character should be included into the Legion. The references will be tossed into a Google drive that we send the link to. 2. I'll take all of that and submit to the assigned TFE LMOs, who will take the info to the main LMO group for a 7 day vote on legitimacy. 3. If the vote passes, you'll want to start a build thread here and keep us in the loop as you build to the references. We do not do pre approval CRLs because we don't want you building to words, but to the actual references. 4. Once built, you will let us know so we can get everything uploaded into the drive folder to go through analysis by TFE DCAs. 5. If it passes DCA approval, it will move to LMO approval. Again, another 7-day vote will occur. 6. If approved, we will begin final work on the CRL, including getting CRL photos from you. If not approved, changes will be relayed and then start again at step 4. 7. Final CRL will go through LMO confirmation and approval, and then once published, we'll work with you to get the information with your GML to assign the costume to your profile. If there are any questions, please ask!
    2 points
  13. I’m skipping way ahead. I got a little hyper focused and just didn’t follow up with documentation. I have been taking pictures as I go. I have a photoshoot next Sunday and had to step up my game. Finished the bodysuit (sort of) and took some pics. The cape clips on to my shoulders. still to do: Place Velcro to hold armor in key locations Belt - cut to length, finish painting greeblies, wire LED Armor - apply Velcro, repattern collar, model greeblie for guantlets Boots - A friend is working on them for me cape - hem and shorten clip straps saber - all the things
    2 points
  14. I will do a better write up of this in the next month or so. I will write more about how to make a casting of your head and such, but for now this is how to make the actual hard plastic re-usable stencil. Okay so this is going to be a bit of a long post. For my Ventress I have been planning trying to make a hard plastic stencil to use for airbrushing my Asajj Ventress tattoos on the scalp part of the head. I wanted something that is pretty much a continuous shape that doesn't have to have sections that need to be created every couple of inches. And would fit my head without large gaps. I have been using a Halloween bald cap that I tried to modify to fit my head, but because the material is flimsy the stencil shapes have to be cut into sections and then have to be connected when the bald cap is removed. I had my head cast. Which I did but I had to go to a place to get it done. Mind you I plan on doing other things with my head mold. The process for making this stencil can be done with just casting the scalp and ear area and doesn't have to include the face. I purchased a small (16"x16") Vacuum forming table. Got it on Etsy. Pm me if you want a link. You can also go on Youtube to learn how to make one. I used my house vacuum to create the suction. I also purchased a sheet of PETG from Amazon. .020" thickness. I also had a heat gun for this process. I made a cast from the mold of my head using Smooth-Cast 305 from Reynolds Advanced Materials. I made it a little bigger (deeper) than I had planned on. But I figured out a workaround without having to cut the head shape down. You can learn more about casting at the Smooth-On website. or you can search Youtube. I used the metal frame that came with the vacuform table and secured the plastic sheet I had cut down to the same size as the frame. I then put it in the over, raised a few inches above the metal wire shelf under my broiler (around 3-4") and let it sit for around 30-45 seconds. I pulled it out and pushed it down over the head form. My first try at molding the head stencil failed (mostly). When I first pulled the hot sheet down over the head form, it wouldn't stretch far enough down over the head form to reach the edges of the table to suction down the plastic. I tried using a heat gun while putting pressure on the plastic pulling it down, however this really didn't work very well. So, I tried again. This time I remedied the suction issue by building up walls of the vacuform table with Styrofoam I had in the house and then using duct tape to attach them to the table and seal the edges. This would allow the plastic sheet to come down onto the surface edge of the table to allow the suction of the vacuum to work on pulling down the extra plastic to the table. I repeated the steps like I did the first time with heating the sheet of plastic in the oven. I then pushed the sheet down over the head form onto the wall edges where it then started to suction down the plastic. The plastic cools quickly. When it does it will not stretch anymore. It still needed to form a bit more, so I used a heat gun (550 deg) in spots around the head form while the vacuum was on. Some spots I melted the surface and created holes where I had the heat gun to close to the plastic, so I patched them up with duct tape to create the suction again. I kept going around the head till I was happy with the results. I have cut the head shape out and will be drawing and cutting out the shapes of the tattoos that go on Ventress' head. The only thing I would like to do again differently is using a bit of a thicker sheet of PETG. I feel it would hold up better for future stenciling. For now, I will use this. But I am also currently ordering more PETG in a thicker sheet. I will be posting more pictures of the head stencil being cut tout and being used with the airbrush when I get there later today. If you do not know about Vacuum forming I suggest googling it to learn more. The first image is showing the vacuform table with the failed stencil to the right of the head form and the successful one still clamped to the frame for the vacuform table standing upright (you are looking at the top of the head). The second image shows how deep the forming of the plastic was made. You can also see the pieces of white duct tape I used to seal the holes where needed.
    2 points
  15. Pattern review: Third Sister Pattern (from Etsy) https://www.etsy.com/listing/1255438991/third-sister-inquisitor-reva-costume?ref=yr_purchases DISCLAIMER: This opinion is only based on the use of the pattern for accuracy. It’s probably fine for basic cosplay. There were many issues I found so I’ll talk about that first and then how to possibly fix them if you really want to use the patterns. 1. Sizing - there is no information on the size ranges that fit the pattern (I.e. bust, waist, and hips). The listing says M/L and that larger is available upon request but it needs to be more specific since that is arbitrary unless ASTM measurements are used. There is only one size in the purchase so if you don’t fit it it you’ll have to buy the next one up. 2. Accuracy - this is the main reason I wouldn’t recommend the pattern. It’s pretty clear from the patterns that the maker never saw reference photos that included a back view. * the collar is missing the back piece and greeblies * the shaping of the back shoulder armor is incorrect Boots pattern is odd. It isn’t tall enough to cover a tall boot. It’s better suited to an ankle length. This isn’t a con per se but the pattern is made for EVA foam and not for sewing. That makes some of the shapes odd. If you still want to use the pattern anyway you’ll need to do some redrafting. - mock up everything to check fit. You’ll need to make sure your proportions are correct. (I had to redraft using a basic bodice pattern that fit me) - discard the belt and pauldrons and the waist pieces will take some work. as for the materials, I’m actually using EVA foam covered in faux leather for my armor, but I’ll share those details in the next post. The important point is that I didn’t piece curved parts. Instead everything is heated and curved on the body as needed. In conclusion, the pattern is not for a beginner. I have over 20 years of costuming and patterning experience and I gave up on most of it as salvageable. Now I may be knit picking but I am a stickler for accuracy.
    2 points
  16. Finally I did it, boots have been altered and kitted up yesterday completely. I had a brain dump and couldn't work out how to do my hair. Of course, during the night I mentally worked out how I should have done it. Hopefully though it won't hold it up too much and require another full kit up. The boot clips have now been permanently attached in place, so that there is no way of losing them.
    2 points
  17. Hello there flagship eclipse peoples! 🔥🤍 Finally got some progress on my Asajj clone wars fit. The belt might kill me because leather work is the death of me and I’m determined to make everything myself hahah. Obviously the wraps aren’t fully on but just placed there to get the idea. The colors are a bit off in photos but irl they are pretty spot on from the promo photos of Asajj. base layer - few slight fit tweaks needed arm and leg wraps - leg wraps aren’t finished and obviously need to do the shoe part! featuring Eddie the bulldog being judgey 🤣 Skirt and tabbard just pinned on for basic fit- slight tweaking needed there lastly her cloak - my gosh was the color hard to find “grey purple?!” Hurt my brain hahahha. let me know what y’all think 🤍
    1 point
  18. Update #2 Been a few weeks since my last update but everything is going forward with the build. All the major Armor pieces have been trimmed, cleaned up, Fitted for Strapping, etc. Painting has started (See Below For more Info). A few minor parts are left to clean up and fit (Knuckle Plates for example) Upon further studying the ABS parts in the kit - we decided to have some of them replaced for more detail. There is nothing wrong with these parts per say - But some of the newer 3d Print files have more detail and look closer to the Model files from the game. So far - Both Hand Plates and Both Arm Bracers were replaced with parts printed on a 6k resin machine using a custom blend of resin for Max durability and detail. The parts look outstanding and will be incorporated into the build. Robe is about 6 weeks since i placed the order - Hope to hear back from the maker soon. Paint: We are doing something a little different with the acolyte. The paint was one of the parts even if i had the knowledge to build the armor - i was never comfortable doing myself. My friend who is helping me with the build on the other hand - is one of the best armor and prop builders / painters i have ever seen. The Paint will Multi layered. The Initial Black Primer / Basecoats have been applied. We will be using Alumaluster for the Gunmetal Layer over the entire body. For those that dont know the paint - its most commonly used these days to give Din Djarin that lovely Beskar look and its expensive to use on this scale of painting - but having multiple suits made using this paint in our squad - the results speak for themselves and it was an easy decision to invest. The paint will be further darkened and weathered from that point forward before being sealed up to match the reference photos. Hopefully have pics of that final paint job in the coming weeks. Excited to see it coming together after all these years!
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. Hi again! As I promised here I show you the different parts of my costume: The leather gloves I bought were recommended by my friend: The leather belt with the right measure and those little black metal pieces: Here you can see the belt on the obi which is almost finished: And the inner robe with the skirt attached and the sleeves finished as the CRL details: Finally the outer shirt on the inner robe: And that's all for now, in a few days I will show you the skirt and the awesome boots, the same for my royal guard costume.
    1 point
  21. Here's a few of mine with the Darman neckseal. Also my cloak was made for me by a friend who could actually sew Was lucky to find one at the time. My kit is a first gen MyNock resin kit with 1st gen and 2nd gen MyNock masks...
    1 point
  22. Following @tattooed_pariah suggestion I purchased a Cord Lock for the Split Skirt. Works really well!
    1 point
  23. Well, it has been some time, since I have made a new costume, but now I am finally at it again, and after having made 3 Nihilus costumes for others, 2 COFT and 1 KOTOR, I decided to go with the COFT version. This will be my 3rd TFE and my 9th 501st. costume . What can I say other than I love to make costumes, to find all the right parts and getting it all together. I´ve already done : inner and outer tunika quilted and ribbed sleeves innerskirt obi got the boots and gloves sorted out primed the two masks primed the formed hood from Twilék Pam Now I need to put the belt together, got all the parts - just need a leather hole tool, think my dad may have one otherwise I´ll have to use a nail and hammer I need to give the masks and the formed hood the final coats. I also need to make the outer skirt and get the right length on the cape + find a way to attach it to the formed hood (thinking snaps or magnets) + shorten the sleeves + get the parts tattered. Guess a 2-3 weeks, then I should be ready to send in the pics for the GML team...
    1 point
  24. Hi Charles, I'm pretty sure I've already spoken to you on Facebook, but just in case...both Rahm's and Kasdan's sabers are fairly simple (aside from the tsuka wrap on Rahm's) and could easily be made out of PVC. The belt hangers for this kit don't really need to do anything other than sit on your belt and look pretty so you can go low tech for these. If you are looking to have them be functional, I highly recommend checking out The Custom Saber Shop, they have a HUGE variety of custom parts and I have had them do custom one-off pieces as well, so if they don't have what you're looking for, reach out to Tim and he may be able to help get you the part you need.
    1 point
  25. Very nice, I've got a Mynocks Den resin kit that I built a few years ago. I did eventually get a pair of plastic shins from Vaders Vault as well just because I found the resin ones heavy. I couldn't find another lightsaber that was as screen accurate as the one from Vaders Vault so eventually that was the one I went with and have no complaints with it. I'm no use to you for a robe vendor though as I had my mother in law do mine as she is an experienced seamstress. Good call on the boots as I went with a pair of shoes for mine which could have been why I was experiencing some discomfort from the shins. Maybe I'll have to switch to boots in the future. Enjoy the journey, the armor looks badass once it's completed.
    1 point
  26. Nope. They did the vote for 501st inclusion and that passed, but SLD requested before the series so know they're voting on assignment (just got the email literally 10 minutes ago).
    1 point
  27. Apologies! I did not receive any notifications about this! I would absolutely love to have this one added! I can send this off to LMO for a vote to see if they deem it eligible (don't see any issues, but you never know) with the references supplied. It takes about a week for them to vote.
    1 point
  28. My suit is the same type of fabric, and I had this start to happen below the zipper. I had some extra fabric (since I purchased some of the same fabric to make my gloves), so I cut a small rectangle patch to reinforce the area and used E6000 to glue it to the inside. It helps take some of the load off the stitch holes, which are weak points.
    1 point
  29. I was thinking about suspenders or straps like this https://www.amazon.com/YiwerDer-Adjustable-Fastening-Reusable-Organizer/dp/B0C68Z6ZQP/ref=sr_1_5 But your suggestion is much better. Thank you.
    1 point
  30. I really appreciate the response, Max. 1. Great idea. I’ll see who I can get in contact with. 2. That is technically a motorcycle side, but the follicle structure is usually bigger and more noticeable. 3. If you find something, then I’d happily give it a look over. Otherwise, I’ll double check with my local rep to see if the “piping needs dimension or if it’s just a prominent edge that has to show. 4. I think the words “approximately” is what gives me hope, but also makes me nervous. I don’t want to invest a lot of time in a build, then have to start from scratch, or even worse, have to buy an expensive replica. I typically make my own stuff. When a local rep approves based on the CRL, then the build is official with 501st, or would a member of global leadership need to secondarily affirm that the build is approved? I really appreciate the help.
    1 point
  31. The sabers look awesome
    1 point
  32. As far as I'm tracking the hilt with the spikes is not approved at this point...I prefer the Savior hills anyway as they simply look more elegant. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  33. Upgrade time...front ring on the Sash (and my sash), fell off during a troop today, and my lightsaber died after 2 hours... Any recommendations for the following Boots - Gloves (not leather) - Lightsabers - Ring is an easy fix just embarrassing
    1 point
  34. Osnaburg fabric for inner tunic and sash Brown duck cloth for outer tunic.
    1 point
  35. ok. I got my butt to redo after I saw this fishnet shirt on a online store. So I order it in and cut it to fit my body and I added a skin tone mash fabric on it. LOL And along the way saw this belly dancing mask to add to the outfit when I feel like having a bad makeup day XD
    1 point
  36. Just as way of an update, I'm working on uploading the reference pictures and will be taking submission photos of the costume soon. I want to make a couple of adjustments for accuracy as well as add a couple of pieces to the gauntlets(elbow guards), also for accuracy, before taking the pictures.
    1 point
  37. Alright, I think today is a good day for me to stop where I'm at due to the warm weathering making it difficult to work in the garage. Gloves and extra velcro just arrived and sure enough I should had ordered a size smaller, I freaking hate sizing charts with a passion. Originally the instructions called for you to hot glue the armor bits onto the gloves....and I hated it! I said to myself, "Man I got a lot of extra velcro here so why don't I use that instead?!" Yeah that actually worked really well and I think I might rip out the parts from the other glove to do the same method...they feel way more secure using my method.... I of course had to do a test shot! This is of course my Mara Jade 2.0 saber I got from Saberforge about 7 years ago or so. It's honestly the only sith saber I got besides Malgus. Which brings me to an important question. Do I HAVE TO get the Vader's Vault Acolyte saber https://vadersvault.com/acolyte/, or can I go with whatever I have that has a red blade and realistic looking? Or can I go with Saberfoge's Acolyte https://saberforge.com/collections/apprentice-sabers/products/acolyte which costs way less? Personally I'd rather go with what I got cause I got it, it's Sith looking and highly functional.
    1 point
  38. Oh no, you misunderstand. The entire process involves you and the detachment working together. So when you're ready to start, message me
    1 point
  39. Couldn't this character be labeled "Inquisitor - TotJ" ?
    1 point
  40. Was nice to see you at SWCL!
    1 point
  41. Nice one! Just remember that it is the exact same hilt for double of KOTOR2 Revan.
    1 point
  42. May 1 2023 New Revan Photos. WITH Cyber Craft helmet.
    1 point
  43. Last year, I made some 3D files for Darth Revan armor, to join the Norwegian Garrison. I had a lot of fun making my own costume and getting it approved. The armor was made based on the current CRL. After doing some minor fixes to the armor, I've now decided to share them with everyone that wants to make a Darth Revan. I've shared the files for free. The armor is made for my body, so If you decide to print it, you'll need to make sure to make them fit you as well. This is a nice way to get into making your own Revan armor. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask! Link to the files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:817868
    1 point
  44. Full makeup test. Getting closer to the colors I’m happy with. Thank god Mehron had a pastel yellow that works!
    1 point
  45. FANTASTIC!!!!! Thank you so much! I will need help with this fantastic adventure!
    1 point
  46. I would like to re-open this one and support Blanes proposal to change the text back, found here : https://www.theflagshipeclipse.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3019-darth-nihilus-cotf-update/ We don´t have levels in TFE like for exampel the IOC/FISD, so I think it should be optional for the wearer, otherwise I would have suggested the blackout mask to be a higher level then basic approval. From Blackout Mask The face is blacked out by a sculpted black mask with visible mouth details. Balaclava A form-fitting black balaclava is worn to hide the costumer's face and neck. To Face Covering The costumer's face is blacked out behind the white mask. This may be accomplished with a sculpted black mask, or a tight-fitting fabric blackout mask that shows facial features. The eyes are hidden with black fabric behind the eyes of the mask or by the fabric of a blackout hood. If a sculpted mask is used, wearer must also use a black balaclava underneath to cover the neck. Thank you for your time
    1 point
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