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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2024 in Posts

  1. Hi folks, I just wanted to share some of the pics I took during my shooting at the Georges Henri park in Brussels
    3 points
  2. Hello everyone! I am from south central PA (near Gettysburg) and am a new cadet with Garrison Carida. I just started working on a Ventress Concept build. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Ventress_concept I’ve been poking around at all the amazing information and help here and am excited to be part of the forums now. Wow. So many incredible costumes! I’ll post some pictures of my progress and about a million questions lol
    1 point
  3. Thanks! I appreciate the feedback. I will find a way to use the Zoom pedal lol
    1 point
  4. Hello there flagship eclipse peoples! 🔥🤍 Finally got some progress on my Asajj clone wars fit. The belt might kill me because leather work is the death of me and I’m determined to make everything myself hahah. Obviously the wraps aren’t fully on but just placed there to get the idea. The colors are a bit off in photos but irl they are pretty spot on from the promo photos of Asajj. base layer - few slight fit tweaks needed arm and leg wraps - leg wraps aren’t finished and obviously need to do the shoe part! featuring Eddie the bulldog being judgey 🤣 Skirt and tabbard just pinned on for basic fit- slight tweaking needed there lastly her cloak - my gosh was the color hard to find “grey purple?!” Hurt my brain hahahha. let me know what y’all think 🤍
    1 point
  5. My sister and I make them and thank you for the link
    1 point
  6. I will do a better write up of this in the next month or so. I will write more about how to make a casting of your head and such, but for now this is how to make the actual hard plastic re-usable stencil. Okay so this is going to be a bit of a long post. For my Ventress I have been planning trying to make a hard plastic stencil to use for airbrushing my Asajj Ventress tattoos on the scalp part of the head. I wanted something that is pretty much a continuous shape that doesn't have to have sections that need to be created every couple of inches. And would fit my head without large gaps. I have been using a Halloween bald cap that I tried to modify to fit my head, but because the material is flimsy the stencil shapes have to be cut into sections and then have to be connected when the bald cap is removed. I had my head cast. Which I did but I had to go to a place to get it done. Mind you I plan on doing other things with my head mold. The process for making this stencil can be done with just casting the scalp and ear area and doesn't have to include the face. I purchased a small (16"x16") Vacuum forming table. Got it on Etsy. Pm me if you want a link. You can also go on Youtube to learn how to make one. I used my house vacuum to create the suction. I also purchased a sheet of PETG from Amazon. .020" thickness. I also had a heat gun for this process. I made a cast from the mold of my head using Smooth-Cast 305 from Reynolds Advanced Materials. I made it a little bigger (deeper) than I had planned on. But I figured out a workaround without having to cut the head shape down. You can learn more about casting at the Smooth-On website. or you can search Youtube. I used the metal frame that came with the vacuform table and secured the plastic sheet I had cut down to the same size as the frame. I then put it in the over, raised a few inches above the metal wire shelf under my broiler (around 3-4") and let it sit for around 30-45 seconds. I pulled it out and pushed it down over the head form. My first try at molding the head stencil failed (mostly). When I first pulled the hot sheet down over the head form, it wouldn't stretch far enough down over the head form to reach the edges of the table to suction down the plastic. I tried using a heat gun while putting pressure on the plastic pulling it down, however this really didn't work very well. So, I tried again. This time I remedied the suction issue by building up walls of the vacuform table with Styrofoam I had in the house and then using duct tape to attach them to the table and seal the edges. This would allow the plastic sheet to come down onto the surface edge of the table to allow the suction of the vacuum to work on pulling down the extra plastic to the table. I repeated the steps like I did the first time with heating the sheet of plastic in the oven. I then pushed the sheet down over the head form onto the wall edges where it then started to suction down the plastic. The plastic cools quickly. When it does it will not stretch anymore. It still needed to form a bit more, so I used a heat gun (550 deg) in spots around the head form while the vacuum was on. Some spots I melted the surface and created holes where I had the heat gun to close to the plastic, so I patched them up with duct tape to create the suction again. I kept going around the head till I was happy with the results. I have cut the head shape out and will be drawing and cutting out the shapes of the tattoos that go on Ventress' head. The only thing I would like to do again differently is using a bit of a thicker sheet of PETG. I feel it would hold up better for future stenciling. For now, I will use this. But I am also currently ordering more PETG in a thicker sheet. I will be posting more pictures of the head stencil being cut tout and being used with the airbrush when I get there later today. If you do not know about Vacuum forming I suggest googling it to learn more. The first image is showing the vacuform table with the failed stencil to the right of the head form and the successful one still clamped to the frame for the vacuform table standing upright (you are looking at the top of the head). The second image shows how deep the forming of the plastic was made. You can also see the pieces of white duct tape I used to seal the holes where needed.
    1 point
  7. Hey everyone! (I apologize if this should go into the Tutorials section but since this is specifically for Revan I thought I should post it here!) My name is Rachel but I go by my artist name, NightShine!! I am a shameless nerd whose favorite thing to obsess over is – you guessed it – Star Wars! But even better than that is STAR WARS COSTUMES *whaaaaat*!! I’ve been cosplaying for a little over two years now and as of January 2016 joined the 501st ranks with my Darth Revan. The concept for Revan’s outfit has always been a particular favorite of mine and, being the artist-nut I am, decided to make my own Revan entirely from scratch! Upon my researching and building I, for some reason, couldn’t find information on how to make Revan’s mid-section armor to save my life. I had made a temporary one out of an Allergan air filter (lol) which didn’t look half bad but I knew that I would need to replace it sooner or later. Thankfully, I had made some amazing Mando Mercs friends, one of who was an excellent seamstress. She shared her knowledge with me on how I could go about making Revan’s mid-section armor and I set out to accomplish the task! This brings me to my post – I want to share my mid-section armor build knowledge in hopes that someone out there, who is having as hard of a time figuring this out as I did, could find it useful. There is also, obviously, more than one right way about making this – this was just how I made mine. I also just like making tutorials. Here we go!!! 1 - To start, I had purchased a black vinyl fabric from Joann's and cut it to *roughly* the size I knew I'd want it to be (PLZ PLZ PLZ always cut MORE fabric for stuff like this - unless you're working directly from a pattern - because it's easier to cut off excess fabric than to put fabric back on!!). 2 - Folding the fabric in half, I lined up, pinned, and sewed (one at a time) tiny foam noodles (Caulksav'r Poly-Foam Backer Rod 5/8 in (D) x 20 ft (L) brand name Dennis). You will need to use a zipper foot for this part (reference in picture 8, left side). I just sewed a simple straight line - nothing fancy for this part! 3 - The ridges are starting to come together! NOTE* I am using the zipper foot here - this particular sewing foot comes in handy when you want to sew directly up against an edge without going over it -- just make sure your needle has been moved ALL THE WAY over to the left or right (depending on which way you're sewing) or that needle will snap right off on your presser foot lol is scary 4 - Cut the excess fabric from the edges and started pinning the bottom (well, shown at the top here) excess to cleanly seal it off. 5 - Bottom is sewn to perfection and is ready to go! I used a combo of zig-zag stitching (to first seal off the visible, cut edges) and straight-line stitching (to hold down the fabric when it was folded over for a cleaner look). 6. Cut out excess foam lining (about 1 inch in my case) on each end to make room to sew the attachment parts onto, or you could just make sure in step 2 to have plenty of extra fabric on the end – your choice!
    1 point
  8. Hi everyone, my wife is looking to make a first in legion costume of Mother Talzin from the Clone Wars, and I need guidance. desperately. We want to incorporate the flowing arched robes that sprout from her back, maybe have them move on their own when she troops.....but I don't know much about fabric work, and this looks like a tough costume to build...HELP! I will post the build from start to finish here but could use as much wisdom as you guys can spare. Thanks, Andy Romero DZ-7244 Garrison Membership Liaison Dune Sea Garrison
    1 point
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