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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/2022 in all areas

  1. I made a post in our FB detachment group asking for help/advice for you, since many are on holiday and don´t check the forums much, and I just want to say a big thanks to all for getting in here and helping out. Hopefully you will be able to get your costume fitted and get approved soon. This is a great detachment with awesome members
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  2. Hola Nes, si quieres puedes escribirme para ayudarte, y vemos un medio por el que nos conectemos porque como mencionan es necesario mirar las fotografías para ver cual es el problema. Saludos,
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  3. Hey there. That was my video in the OP. What the others have said is correct; the front and back plate have shoulder straps that connect them. If yours does not have these yet, glue a black strap to each side of the chest and back so that you can tie these together at your shoulders to adjust how low the armor hangs. If you have a Wicked Armor setup, these straps are already there. Once you have someone help you tie those to the right level, then pop your head between the straps (kind of like putting on an apron) so that it drapes in front and behind. You then velcro the pieces together at the sides. I use a big pad of velcro where the plates overlap and a thin strip on the black leather straps that come off the ring and go up and towards the back. My setup is a bit more complex than it needs to be since my cowl and cape are affixed to my chest plate so it all goes on together. That is not the standard setup, it was just something I did to get into it more quickly. For most setups, once you get the armor on, you can then worry about arranging the soft goods. I'll try to get some pics in a day or two when I have a chance to help.
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  4. I recommend you have someone help you for the first time. They hold the armor front and back on you where it should connect and sit, and you make sure the straps over the shoulders fit well. Then when the shoulder straps are set to your body, they line up the armor and place the Velcro for the side that isn't already attached.
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  5. I see, you're talkin about the velcros at the side. Get em together, so that the armor looks nice. The veclro doesn't need to fit perfectly on the both pieces of it. If you cling it to each other and there is some velcro left, it'll be no problem. You can adjust the armor a little bit, by upsetting the fake leather part between ab and chest Hope you understand what i am talking about :-S
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  6. The link goes back to this thread ?
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  7. Very great progress! I have that inquisitor saber too it's very cool! The only difference between Xeno and Proffie is the proffie has more custom animation effects for the blade. Wattos Junkyard is releasing a grand inquisitor hilt from the Kenobi series I'm hoping to grab soon!
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  8. Reference pics And for good measure so I can prove out the paint detailing on the neck and chest armor, this is what I'm looking at. It is very subtle but it's all there.
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  9. Lightsaber update By now I'm sure you've seen it on tic tok and instagram, the LGT Grand Inquisitor *inspired* lightsaber. I knew this would happen. I knew I'd finish this costume and then with the release of Kenobi someone would finally make the Grand Inquisitor lightsaber for real. I just thought it would be the live action version and not rebels version. But here we are. So surprise I bought it. Dark Wolf had the best price I could find for it at $650 for a xeno pixel. I still have no idea what the difference between a xeno and a proffie is but I wanted to save $100 and try it out. My opinions on this saber... It's cool but could be better. Not as much of a fan of the xeno pixel option vs the proffie. The effects are all the same like clash and tip drag and fonts are all the same pretty much, but the proffie does a much better job executing these effects. For example on the proffie for clash effect, hold the button and hit the blade and it will clash until you release the button, and the sound will resonate for an extra second like a thunder clap. With the xeno option the sound just stops abruptly when you release the button. Same difference with the other effects as well. Just seems to me like even with the price difference, it doesn't seem like the sounds should be this different especially with it still being expensive. The hilt itself I think looks very nice. It's not a replica but inspired so I know it looks different than the show. Mostly the polished aluminum shouldn't be a thing here. The hilt should be a gun metal, dark grey, not polished aluminum. Besides that, looks-wise, it's a nice hilt. It folds and has the red buttons (fake buttons) on either side. There is a squeak sound on mine that I can't figure out where its coming from. Either squeaking in the chassis or on the metal shroud around the grip, I'm not sure. There are several moving parts on this hilt so I guess that is to be expected. One concern I do have is for the battery life. I have not found an option on the xeno pixel that will tell me the battery percentage like the proffie does. And with this being two blades on a single battery I fear it will not last nearly as long. I've noticed after playing with it for a while, changing fonts over and over and playing music on it, the top blade tends to not light properly after a while. Like its too much to keep both blades going especially with the music also playing. Maybe its a connection issue to the blade but idk. Also have found that if opening and closing the rings this sometimes makes the blade connection go bad because of how it all screws together. So overall, it's a really nice one, but some things could function better especially for this price. And for it being the ONLY metal hilt Grand Inquisitor lightsaber, probably everyone in this group should get one.
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  10. Armor The pride and joy of this costume. I like sewing but there's something about painting armor that is just so satisfying. There are two venders for Grand Inquisitor armor that I know of, JMSprops and Tristonecrafts. Both on etsy. Both for Rebels style. I went with Tristonecrafts for the armor. No real reason why that I can remember I think at the time JMSprops only had his helmet listed and Tristonecrafts only had the armor so it just worked out that way. Looking at the two files now though I do like the Tristonecrafts armor better. It's all pretty much the same except for the compad on the arm. Tristonecrafts is flat and not protruding out like the JMSprops version. The files also came in as separate parts for the arm and the compad which was nice because I wanted to make the three buttons light up. For reference I am 5'11 150 pounds or so and printed all the files at 100% scale. 3d print, sand, filler primer, sand, bondo, filler primer, repeat. You know the drill! I don't get too picky about paint colors usually and I'm not painting a TK bucket here so it's pretty straight forward. IYKYK[emoji6] I like Krylon paints, they dry quickly and I've had good results with them. I laid down a gunmetal basecoat and then did a matte black topcoat. The Grand Inquisitor really doesn't have too much weathering. If he does it's very subtle or just a hazy metal look like the character models in Battlefront 2. So I went with the tape ball technique picked up from island_fett on insta. Cool, cool dude. Anyways. Before the top coat is dry just rub a ball of tape all over it and it'll get nice irregular scratchies and scuffs and exposes the metallic basecoat underneath. I think it turned out super well and I actually wish I had done more to it but I wanted to take it easy because too much weathering will start to look unnatural. Over that went the satin clear coat. I should mention that the 3d models did come as a chest, a back, and a neck piece. And they all had dowel holes for easy assembly. I installed magnets and it works ok... For connecting the chest to the back I also have velcro straps on the inside because the magnets would for sure not hold. The neck sticks nicely and I don't foresee it falling off ever. It could get bumped and move but with how tight of a squeeze it is to get it around my neck it's not going to fall to the ground and break. The forearm bracers are in two parts as well with a main section and a chunk of the inner wrist that can come off. There are very thin spots to install magnets but I decided to just use a velcro and elastic strap on the inside to hold on the wrist cover. I'm still working out a way to keep it all tightly together because with the shirt and glove on the seam will sometimes get bigger the more I move around. Figuring out the chest LED and the compad LEDs. I'm doing a really basic connection here. Maybe I'm not even doing it correctly idk but it's worked for me in the past. Anywho, 9 volt with a resistor and LEDs. On the chest I just used 2 red LEDs but on the compad I'm using 1 red and 2 white LEDs. I used white opaque acylic for the white buttons and red trans acrylic for the red. Playing around with how the lights look inside there i decided to go with a layer of open celled clear foam on the red lights to diffuse it more and then on the back of the foam used white electrical tape. I found that a white inside was key to making the button and the chest really look 3 dimensional. The compad LEDs look pretty much just like they do in the pictures as they do in person but the chest LEDs are much more diffused across the whole piece of acrylic. Pictures really don't show how nice it looks in person unfortunately. Mating the neck, the chest, and back turned out ok but there were still gaps between all the parts when there really shouldn't be. *or ideally shouldn't be* I'm not building magical cartoon playdoh armor lol. But I found it worked very well to just lay down some sticky felt to the neck and to the back piece. I did felt on the neck piece and not just around the neck hole of the combined chest and back because when this is done and I have the helmet I'm not convinced the helmet will fit with the neck attached. So I want it to be removable and not scratch up the neck hole on the other pieces. They had the right idea to get rid of the neck piece in Kenobi[emoji28] The felt filled in these gaps really well and there's still a seam yes, but now it looks a little more intentional. Shoulders came out very nicely. Decals not so much haha. Because of the curvature of the bells the decals did not quite flatten out so well. But not to worry! This gave me an opportunity to rough em up a bit. Anywhere the decal got bubbly or folded over itself I just cut out the blemish and now its weathered. Bam! These get velcroed to the shirt nothing fancy. Hips...Well the files did come with hip files but my buddies printer took a crap and we haven't been able to get these printed yet. But fear not! I made them out of sintra. I hate cutting sintra because it gets really dusty and the dust is sticky. Wear a mask! But the good thing about sintra is it's nice and light and can heat form pretty well. I made the basic shapes and then heated them on the side of a bucket with a heat gun. It worked so well idk if I even want to bother finishing more 3d prints now[emoji28] I'm not sure how large the 3d files for these were so I am just guessing on the size and judging based on my own legs. These are about 15 inches tall. They also flatten out the jodhpurs nicely but don't completely cover them either. Lastly, the detailed painting. Hmmm. I spent a long time re-watching all the Grand Inquisitor's scenes and what I found is that his neck armor is not just painted black. The top of the neck is distinctly a grey color which is part of a flange which is also grey on the bottom side. Then a lighter grey pinstripe is present. Then it is black like the rest of the armor. For the top flange I just used the same gunmetal color as I used for the basecoat. Seems to work very nicely next to the black. Then for the pinstripe I just used a silver acrylic. Also silver acrylic on the chest details as well. The 3d model does not have this top flange defined so I just eyeballed the proportions. The flat base of the neck on the chest is the same dark grey shown on the neck. Then there is a lip at the very front with this face being black. Around the entirety of the neck, on the chest and back there is also a silver pinstripe, again not modelled into the pieces but this does not extend up onto that front lip.
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  11. Actually, according to the comics, rubber boots are not what are used at all but wrapped Jedi boots with a definite tread on the bottom. A pair of the Funtasma pleather boots were used off of Amazon (just type in Jedi boots) and Barge’s all purpose contact cement from Tandy Leather. Any contact cement will work.
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