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SithRose

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SithRose last won the day on June 28 2016

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    Dune Sea Garrison

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  1. I'd just like to point out that this same cartoon *also* has Stormtrooper armor bending in places where it physically cannot bend at all period, such as at the mid torso and...the exact same point at the ankles. So I would take bending of what appears to otherwise be hard armor with a serious grain of salt, knowing that animation does not need to follow the same physics as physical bodies do. (I'd prefer it to be soft too. But I don't think it is. However, the CRL doesn't mention it, so it's still in question. I was going to make mine from Sintra or tooled leather, neither of which are flexible...) The red inside the helmet isn't screen or saber glare, it's red tinted. And yes, there are triangles on the knees. Cheers, Kaylan
  2. Klipsa, I got it off of Amazon for quite cheap - I wishlisted several different varieties and flagged them for sales. The stuff I have is white, because it was much cheaper. It would do quite well for a child's stormtrooper. The search term I used was "Sintra". -Kaylan
  3. Hmmmm. If you can manage to get the leather approved, I will be quite happy. I'm much better at leatherworking than I am with Sintra. (Having done leatherwork for years...sintra not at all.) I will note that the animated series has some fairly bad armor animation, though - it has quite a few Stormtroopers with armor bending in places that are hard armor. That was something that I'd taken into account when looking at the possible materials and forming my opinion of the materials her armor was likely to be made of. I would tend to recommend against EVA foam at all, to be honest. It's just not sturdy enough for the advances of enthusiastic kids - remember, it's not just walking that you'll be doing in it. You're going to get attacked by kids. I could maybe see it with a very solid resin or fibreglass coating over the foam. My plan is to do Sintra over EVA or possibly fleece for interior comfort. (I have to figure out which one is cooler - I'm not exactly in a low-temperature climate.) -Kaylan
  4. Mmmm, you're right, they are longer than I thought. I haven't sat down to do a full math proportion run on the pieces yet because I've a con coming up in a month and I've been working on costumes for that. (I haven't actually looked at the cosplay only versions - I don't generally expect them to be accurate enough unless the cosplayer specifically says they're apping for 501st with it. Heck, the *Disney* version wouldn't meet 501st standards!) It could be the angle that's making yours look a couple cm longer than I think they should. I'm still not seeing the back split in the tunic though, much less the white over-stitching on it? Mind if I ask where you sourced the gabardine from? I've found twill with some lycra, which is a very close material if it's a finely woven twill, but the pictures aren't as good as I'd like. And I'm rather limited on local fabric stores here, sadly. (I have Joann's and Hobby Lobby, which I won't shop at - I've actually had one refuse to serve me because of MY religion - and a discount place called SAS which is...better for low-quality fabric.) I was going to use white gabardine or twill and applique it for mine on the stripes and dots - Still haven't decided whether to go with a patch or an applique for the Imperial insignia. It seems to me that we should be able to do that part either way, what do you think? It looks like you used piping for the blood stripe on the pants, or am I wrong? (It's late, I'm medicated, and in pain. Forgive fuzziness please?) I was going to order some military pants striping or get it from a surplus store, it looked to me like it should be about half an inch to 3/4ths of an inch wide. (Again, haven't done proportion maths yet!) The knee designs look satin stitched on - am I right? That's how I'd planned to do mine - if you have a better way, I'm definitely all ears! And did you use a particular base tunic pattern, or did you draft your own? I'd planned to kludge a couple of different patterns together to design my tunic because I'm significantly better at revising existing patterns than I am at drafting them from scratch myself, so if you have a good base that'd be lovely. That's good to know about how you made the gloves - I'd prefer the gloves to match the tunic material myself, and I'm really iffy about finding a pair of pre-made gloves that *fit* my over-large hands. I know the pattern I have fits even using non-stretch materials, but it's got the gussets between the fingers. (Again with the drafting - I've tried to make gloves by tracing hands and I've had zero luck making them look good. The pattern I have? It looks good. And fits my hands even with a non-stretch material. But if we need to NOT have the fourchettes in the gloves - that's the proper name for the glove gussets - than I'll probably have to make a glove pattern that works.) Are those the shoes you're planning to use? The heel seems high - it looks more like she's got a half-inch to an inch heel on her boots max. I'm only asking because that's one of the things that made me happy - my body REALLY dislikes heels, and I was thrilled to see that she isn't wearing heeled boots. If it seems like I'm questioning everything, it's mostly because you are *definitely* going to beat me to finishing, and the more questions I ask now, the better reference I'll have for when I'm sitting down to do it. This is going to be my first 501st costume. If it seems like I'm asking rapid-fire questions in no particular order...well, um...yeah, I kinda am because that's how my brain works. Especially at this hour. Sorry! I love you and you're a great resource! (I do plan on having Seventh Sister belts - just the leather part, both upper and lower, dyed and sealed - in my Etsy shop once I've gotten them patterned out and finished to go with the Enfield bandoliers I already make, by the way. I know JJ Armory is doing 3D prints of the belt buckle with a non-functional buckle, but I want to try my hand at a functional buckle under a cover before I go with a non-functional one. If I can get my idea to work, I'll probably have that up included with the belt itself.) - Kaylan Mostly nuts this week with con prep and Murphy deciding to move in. (My husband broke his elbow a week ago. The Demon Murphy is in FULL effect here...we're not sure he'll be able to wear his Tusken for the con that's in a month. Never mind having to scrap several costume plans because he was going to be helping with them and...well...*can't* now. Thank gods for dirty laundry breaking his fall onto the stone floor, he'll heal with minimal loss of motion instead of having shattered his entire elbow and cheekbone! I never thought I'd be this thankful to a pile of dirty laundry!)
  5. What material did you wind up using? And what's it made of? (I'm having some trouble sourcing a good gabardine type material that isn't a poly-cotton blend - I can manage a cotton-spandex blend, but my skin doesn't like most polyester fabrics at all.) Looks like everyone's going for straight medium red, which will make sourcing the red fabric easier, at least. And how did you do the gloves - do they have the gussets in between the fingers? (Yes, I know there's a technical term for those. I can't remember it.) I have glove patterns that I can use, though I'll need to alter them a bit for the red palm. I don't remember seeing the white lines on the back split of the tunic in the source pictures? Where did you find the reference for those? Not questioning, just curious on the reference material for them. And did you use a patch or freehand applique for the Imperial insignia? I *think* your lower tunic white lines may be a bit long. They seem shorter to me in the reference pictures - how did you determine the length? I'm asking because they seem disproportionately large compared to the Imperial insignia on the shoulders. -Kaylan
  6. Looking at a comparison between the animation style of the Imperial officer uniforms and the Seventh Sister's outfit, I don't think that it's skin tight at all. It's not baggy, no - it IS snug-fitting. But no more snug-fitting than an Imperial officer's uniform, I would say. I'd tend to recommend perhaps a bit tighter and using a stretch material if possible, but if not I'd suggest the Imperial officer fit standard - the animation style is the same, and the pants *clearly* blouse out a bit over the boots and shin armor. Something skin-tight will not do that, it's not possible. So it *can't* be skin-tight. It should be noted that the person commenting that it was approved isn't even in Maya's *garrison* - she's on the other side of the country. (I'm in the Dune Sea Garrison area too.) Maya herself says that she hasn't even submitted it for approval - we chatted a bit about what fabrics she used because I wanted to pick her brain on where she got them. Sadly, it was a local store that isn't in my area. It can't possibly be approved if she hasn't submitted it yet. -Kaylan
  7. If you mean the one on the RPF FB page, yes - she mentioned that she's planning on submitting it, but has several things to finish before submission that she doesn't have time to do before the *con* she's wearing it to. So she knows she's missing things. (Yes, I'm still working on mine, life has been a little insane lately!) -Kaylan
  8. I put some notes on the boots in my tentative CRL workup. They're a low heel, about an inch, with a red line around the heel and over the top of the foot. There's a separate piece of shin armor, at least that's what it looks like in every picture I've seen. I have some reference photos of the boots pulled from the show in the photo folder - those are all screenshots from the show. As for fabric, I'm using the Imperial officer CRL guides for type of fabric, a gabardine weave (it's a tight-woven twill), in a dark charcoal grey with a burgundy lining. I haven't found the right one yet, I've got some swatches to order still. I'd tend to suggest a light twill or sturdy cotton for the lining. I did find a good stretch microsuede for the gloves on Ebay - I can give the link, but I'm not sure that they ship to Spain. The cowl/wimple under the helmet and around the neck is going to be easiest as a stretch material, probably a heavy Ponte de Roma to keep the shape of the triangles best. The color match on this is going to be tricky unless we can find a matching stretch gabardine, it may need to be dyed to match. And it'll need a synthetic-specific dye if it is. I'm still undecided know how to attach the white portions of the tunic. The red trim on the pants is a military trouser braid, you should be able to get that at most online surplus stores. Right now I'm leaning towards an applique of white gabardine, matching fabric, for the stripes and dots on the tunic, and possibly a patch for the Imperial insignia on the shoulders. I could make an applique work, but I'm not sure it would look right. - Kaylan
  9. I've got Echo on my Facebook, it was easier to collaborate on the helmet design that way than through Etsy. I showed off the current photos of the helmet last night at our Garrison social, there was much oohing and ahhing. While I'm going to look into the saber hilt print, I'm kind of leaning more in the general direction of wanting mine more custom designed than a general sculpt allows for. I've odd proportions, and shoulders wide enough to wear men's sizes easily. Now, if one of the locals has a vacu-form machine...it might be more workable. (I'm not gonna try to ship a forming base...that's insane.) With no gap in the underarm area, I'm not sure how you'd make a general large/medium/small form set for her armor. Maybe I'm missing something because I know fabric better than armor? She's got that white rectangle on the lower side front on both sides, perhaps that's an external fastener rather than a decorative shape? - Kaylan
  10. Ah, see, I'm going to have a bladeless saber to start - if I'm going to shell out for a blade, I'm saving my pennies up for a good long while and getting a combat capable one. So I'll likely wind up with two sabers in the long run. I've budgeted for resin molding the circle saber, but a combat blade with sound and lighting is too pricey for me for a few years yet. Besides, I like working with leather and making things work when they really shouldn't. - Kaylan
  11. Actually, the belt buckle can be made functional. If you use a cinch buckle inside the Kydex form, you can make the left side fixed (for the saber hip strap) and the right side where the greeblie is can be made adjustable to 2 or so inches with concealed snaps on the back of the outer belt. Any more and you'll probably have the greeblie off-position, but you could manage up to four inches adjustable if you wanted. Just line the belt and put the snaps on the lining. Because the functional buckle is under the Kydex form, you can still make the entire belt including the hip strap a single piece of leather, snugging the buckle right up to the strap on the left. (I'm making the belt out of tooling leather already, I've already got the tools and skill for that.) There's no rivets shown in the screenshots, though it's reasonable to think that that's an animation stylistic choice. -Kaylan
  12. I'm planning on using .7mm Kydex over 2mm EVA for the bracers and shin guards. It's thin enough to be really flexible, but it's a nice sturdy material. For the chest, my current plan is 2mm Sintra over 1/4 inch EVA, molding over a plaster form based on a life cast. If you're modelling the bracer and belt greeblies, I might want to talk about a set for myself - I'm a fabric specialist, I'm expecting to need two or three tries on the armor bits. (I've budgeted for learning resin casting for those at present - I've done sand casting with metal, so I know the base theory...) I was going to do a 2mm Kydex overlay on an existing belt buckle to reshape the exterior, but if you can print a functional one that'll be adjustable and hide the excess under the main belt, that'd be lovely too. At the moment I'm unable to access my computer - it's having random shutdown issues - so forgive any awkward formatting! Kaylan
  13. I've only worked with EVA out of the lot of them myself, and the foam I used was a lighter grade. But it's a known issue with EVA without a fairly time-consuming level of treatment. For the tunic fastener down the side front, I'm looking at industrial strength velcro with metal hook and eye reinforcing to make sure that the velcro isn't visible. The cowl itself...well, either we make it of a stretch material and it won't need a fastener, or we could use a non stretch material and fasten it up the back of the neck. The former is easier to fit and more comfortable for wearing, as well as more accurate to screen. The latter is easier to do the cheek and chin triangles with, and to match colors more closely. I'm personally leaning towards the former myself, with 2 MM EVA craft foam interfacing in the triangles - it can be machine washed and reshaped with a hairdryer or medium iron after washing. (I use it for stand up collars on kids' cloaks, this is tested.) Kaylan
  14. From my experience with EVA, you're going to want to resin-coat or fiberglass EVA foam for it to be sturdy enough for trooping - modge podge and plasti-dip aren't going to hold up overly well to a kid hugging you. Your paint will crinkle and crack. That's why I'm planning on Sintra over EVA - that and I want extra padding in certain areas! Some help with the inside hinge or links to proven good how tos would be golden, I'm doing those out of Kydex over 2mm EVA and I've not a clue how to do the hinge. I'm using the Imperial officer CRL guides for the fabric - a gabardine weave (or 2/1 twill), but it's proving a mite tricky to find a good color match to the charcoal she wears. I found a slate grey wool on eBay that I'm going to look into next month (can't until then), though. I'm REALLY torn between using a microsuede lining on the tunic to make sure it matches the gloves and using a sateen cotton lining. I think it's going to depend on what fabric type I wind up with - wool is going to require a thicker lining than a cotton twill for me. Fortunately, the Rit burgundy dye is a very close match from my previous usage of it, so that possibility isn't ruled out. If I find a good red twill tape or wide middy braid for the pants, I'll post source! Kaylan
  15. The shoulder ridges are part of the armor, definitely. Every screenshot I've pulled has them with the same reflective quality as the rest of the armor. I'm seeing an over the head armor with underarm and side straps, solid over the shoulders. With the V neck, it should be doable that way. We're going to have to widen the armholes a bit because of physics, I think - just like the bracers will need a tiny adjustment in tightness to make buckling them possible. An ABS pull would be lovely, but with the head and armhole fit, it might actually wind up being as much work to adjust after the pull as Sintra would be from scratch. Kaylan
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