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AhsokaFreakingTano Seventh Sister WIP


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So, for my final project in one of my classes, we have to 'design a look' well she only needs 1 piece of said look and my Jacket is going to need help only draping can satisfy. The only way I can justify why these muslin test garments don't fit well in several places is the following: I made the patterns digitally for another class, I was also 3 weeks post-car wreck and barely functioning like a normal human being, and I hate drafting on the computer I found out, I like doing it by hand on paper so I can see my lines first. Anyway, here we go. 

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So the pants: overall they're really not awful, Any fit issues, all the pulling at the crotch is from the fact that this is muslin, and my fabric does have some stretch in it so I'm not worried about that. Waistband looks like it fits, and if I taper in the sides, we'll be golden. That's easy. Simple. I got that. Pfft.

oXv34Gn.jpgk82Wz7M.jpgtZ4nWlQ.jpg

The jacket... okay let's do this the old-fashioned way. 
Pros: Overall it fits pretty good, I'm not going to touch the sleeves, I think they fit really nicely and will be better again: out of my actual fabric, oh and hemmed.
I think the overall length is also good, I didn't hem this, I know I factored one into my patterns, but I didn't do it here. I think the overall fit is okay. I'm not going to mess with my princess seams until I fix the side seams, I want to fix all this extra stuff on the sides and doing that will change how the jacket hangs, I'll also take it in slightly at the side seams, After that I'll see if I need to take in my princess seams but I don't think that I will. The seams on the back look amazing, they seem to fit really well and I'll be able to tell more once I fix those side seams. 

Until I get to that point: my updates will be slow, I'm running around like a crazy person all the time trying to finish up my final semester of college and get all my personal costumes done (there are many) by October in order to prepare for Celebration. *sigh* may the force be with me. 
But: If I can help anyone else in any way, please don't hesitate to ask!

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So I cut out the pants from my final fabric and I'm gonna work on getting them sewn up today and tomorrow but I just finished my gloves.
My Sewing machine has a stretch straight stitch it looks a little bit like a lightning bolt, I'd suggest if your machine has it to utilize it for these gloves. 

x1mRHSf.jpg

This is the pattern I used since my red fabric doesn't stretch a lot I cut it on the bias and went up from the S-M I am to the L-XL that worked better.

PS55sih.jpg
As you can see, I used View H, and then just tapered the wrists in order for them to fit better. 

F5H12DW.jpg
They're done, I'll hem them later but for right now they're complete and they fit!

VvfV6Tv.jpgBZ2tJr6.jpg

When I sewed them up I tapered the fingertips into points, usually, my nails are pretty long, a couple of them are short currently, but that will help it really have that pointed look. 

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22 hours ago, AhsokaFreakingTano said:

So I cut out the pants from my final fabric and I'm gonna work on getting them sewn up today and tomorrow but I just finished my gloves.
My Sewing machine has a stretch straight stitch it looks a little bit like a lightning bolt, I'd suggest if your machine has it to utilize it for these gloves. 

x1mRHSf.jpg

This is the pattern I used since my red fabric doesn't stretch a lot I cut it on the bias and went up from the S-M I am to the L-XL that worked better.

PS55sih.jpg
As you can see, I used View H, and then just tapered the wrists in order for them to fit better. 

F5H12DW.jpg
They're done, I'll hem them later but for right now they're complete and they fit!

VvfV6Tv.jpgBZ2tJr6.jpg

When I sewed them up I tapered the fingertips into points, usually, my nails are pretty long, a couple of them are short currently, but that will help it really have that pointed look. 

Yay! Points! Just a heads up, I added the part to the CRLs for the square/rectangle thing on the back of the gloves. Photos will be going up shortly for it.

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7 hours ago, DarthValkyria said:

Yay! Points! Just a heads up, I added the part to the CRLs for the square/rectangle thing on the back of the gloves. Photos will be going up shortly for it.

Yeah... I totally realized that once it was done -_- I started doing that today, ripped apart the seams and patterned the piece earlier Just haven't attached it, focused on finishing my pants XD

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 So I know I gotta fix the gloves, that's this coming weekends task cause I'm angry at them currently, I'll unpick them and then leave them be, I did pattern out the top piece and cut that and serged those edges so it'll be a quick fold over and topstitch thing once I'm not so peeved off at them. 
Anyway my pants. From my original test pant, I took off 1/2 in when cutting them, I should have taken off more, in total I believe I sewed the ankle at 1/2in and then tapered the rest in total up to an inch at least in the middle and I think just over 1/2in at the crotch *shrugs* you can take away can't add back. Anyway, I'm getting ahead of myself, I want this to be super detailed to help other people. 

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First thing I did was put my pockets in, I put the facing and the pocket bag in, understitched the facing, and then attached the outside seams together, you'll see my back is longer than my front, this is when I made the pattern I neglected to make sure it was "true" or that it lined up all the way, it's not a big deal they're already too long I just nipped that off easy peasy. Yes, I know there is dog hair, and my hair, and cat hair on these can't care right now XD. 
Next up are the stripes, to do this I cut a strip of my red fabric about 2in wide and the width of the fabric (so I think 50in long) longer than I needed by a lot but eh, there are worse issues to need. Next: you can mark 1/2in on each side and iron it down or you can go to Amazon and look up 'bias tape maker 25mm' because most of these are made outside the US they're in mm instead of inches. 25mm happens to be just under an inch. But when you press the fabric, you get 1in. 

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Now it says to cut strips on the bias of your fabric, I think that's a horrible idea given where it's going, now if you were edging something or making piping yes use the bias but here, I'd not suggest it. Mine said that when you start it to use an awl and shove the fabric through, I'm not sure what awl they have but mine was too fat, so I used a large hand needle instead. 

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Cut off your selvage edge too, it tends to get jammed.

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Now thread your fabric through, and iron it up. When you iron it from the back, you'll want to let it cool and iron it again from the front. 

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I then pinned my strips onto my pants with the center of the strip hitting as close to my seam line as possible. I also put my pins verticle because if this fabric grew on me, I wanted it to move and not pucker. 

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Have you wanted a little helper then get an edge stitch foot. Trust me made straight lines on the edge super easy, I moved my needle in a couple spaces (I think from 0 to space 2 or 3 ((could also be -2 or -3)) and that made it perfect).

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And sewn, I cut off the bulk of my excess strips and left it be for now. Next up: the knee patch. So for me I took my pants and pinned one leg together and put it on where I knew it'd sit later, I then lined up my outside seam where it should go (this is because i knew i'd be taking them in later). And marked up where my knee started and took some measurements: how long my kneecap was, and how wide. 

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I then drew up my piece and added 1/2in seam allowance. Note: I actually knocked another 1/2in off the bottom of this to make it look more like the references and not so even. 
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I used this it's called an "Easy hem" (and it's not wrong). It's made from metal but I would fold my fabric and take my iron press down the edge and slide out the hem tool before fully pressing (this is because my iron is quite possibly pocessed and makes some really crazy sounds whenever it hits metal). 

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All my edges pressed. I retest fit my pants and pinned the triangles to one leg and then mirrored it to the other leg. 

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Well that's a blurry photo, and I finished that step so I can't retake, but you get the idea. 
So because I'm that level of crazy I decided to satin stitch these on. First I sewed them on with a straight stitch so they'd be secure, then I found my machines satin stitch (which for a Bernina 560 it's stitch 1354 ((yes I had to google that))). And then: I sewed them on, If i were to do it again I'd put some kind of backing on the underside but since they pressed nice and flat I'm not worried about what you'll see below:

0ImTTQ8.jpg

The bubbling and puckering bothered me but again: they pressed flat. it was my first time using this stitch so it's not perfect up close but I'm not mad at it. 

The next part is kinda boring, I sewed up the inner leg seam (taking off that almost 1in I mentioned) and then sewed up the crotch. In my test pants I 1 had darts, 2 had a fly zipper. Well I didn't put the darts in these because I wasn't sure if they'd be needed since I'd reduced them and I figured I'd wait till the end and see if they were needed (you're not supposed to do that you're supposed to sew darts first but hey, if you're testing a pattern this may be good for you). Anyway when I tried them on I saw that 1 I could get in and out of them without a fly zipper and 2 the darts weren't gonna shape these pants better then anything else. So I said 'nevermind on that' and shoved elastic into my waistband and thus: my pants are done. Oh yeah, I hemmed the bottom but no one needs to see that, that's boring. 
Let's pretend for 20 seconds I didn't take a bathroom mirror selfie, I'll take some better ones later. 

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Now this waistband: won't win me any prizes, I totally didn't put it on correctly, well I did... the side curves went with the sides I just mismatched them... but It fits, and no one will see it XD
Yup, and that's where I am currently. 

 

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So I fixed the gloves. 

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A friend is modeling my gauntlets but also modeled my greeblies

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And I worked for a couple days in class to get my jacket body fitting correctly. 

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As I thought there was a lot of extra in the side seam, and I took some out in the shoulder seam as well, dropped the armhole, and took in my sleeve. 

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But it's fitting a lot better now.  

Now I think that I'm done with the test fit of the jacket so I'm gonna rip this apart and transfer it to paper and I'll post some pics of my patterns in case people would like to see them. 

8vRCSE9.jpg OW4VUJt.jpg 

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