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Wraith

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Wraith last won the day on October 26 2018

Wraith had the most liked content!

About Wraith

  • Birthday April 18

Profile Information

  • Name
    Roxanne Baxter
  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Germany
  • TKID
    14588
  • Garrison / Outpost
    German Garrison
  • Squad
    Arma Candida
  • 501st Profile
    http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=19377

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  1. Your lightsaber should be fine. It is silver with a banded pattern around the emitter. I never wear lipstick, so I went through several different ones before settling on the one I now use. I absolutely hate getting the color on my teeth! (Which is precisely why I don’t normally wear lipstick.) If the GML finds a problem, we will help you fix it.
  2. I’m looking forward to seeing your pictures. The extra lipstick can be useful as a backup, in case your favorite one goes missing. It’s a running joke between me and my husband that one of us will not have a vital part of our costume when we arrive at a troop.
  3. I took a scrap of my dress fabric with me and tried to color match the lipstick to the fabric. It doesn’t have to be an exact match, but get a strong shade of dark red. I bought one of the 24-hour lipstick combos (lipstick plus topcoat), since I wanted staying power for troops. That’s a personal preference, not a requirement. Im looking forward to seeing your Visas!
  4. My KOTOR dress is made with a discontinued crepe-back satin in a color called Bordeaux. It’s a blue-toned red, almost but not quite a burgundy. It’s more red than my Unseen version. Here are the two fabrics, side by side:
  5. I have the Saberforge Adamant, and my Visas Marr costume has been approved for both the 501st and Rebel Legions. As Yankee71 stated above, Saberforge has a bad reputation (something I did not know when I ordered my saber). I haven’t had any problems yet, but I’m preparing for the day when the electronics fail. From what I read, orders placed through Etsy ship faster than those through their website. With that said, unless you are on a budget or in a hurry, Vader’s Vault has an excellent reputation and are worth the wait. If you like tinkering with electronics, there’s also The Custom Saber Shop. They usually have components that will work for Visas Marr’s saber.
  6. Copying what I wrote in another thread for future reference: I used the same pattern for the inner dress and outer dress; I made the inner dress first, in case modifications were needed. Then I put the pattern pieces on the right side of the black material and traced the cutting lines with a silver sharpie. (Make sure you reverse the pattern pieces, when necessary. Not much use for two left front sides in a dress.) I used four rolls of Oracal 813 stencil material (12 inches by 20 feet each) and part of a roll of Oramask HT55 transfer tape. I cut the design using my Silhouette Cameo 3 vinyl cutter, weeded out the stencil material where I wanted the paint to be, then used the transfer tape to pick up the stencil material in preparation for applying it to the fabric. Do not apply the stencil to the fabric until you are ready to paint! It will leave a residue if not removed within a few days. You will need a lot of pressure to get the stencil vinyl to stick to the masking tape. I used a rolling pin. Then you will also need to rub the stencil material onto the fabric with the rolling pin and/or fingernails before removing the masking tape. It is not an easy nor fun process. Once the stencil material is applied, paint the material. I found that silver spray paint followed by a dusting of black spray paint worked best for me and my particular fabric. As soon as the paint is dry, peel off the stencil material. Paint doesn’t usually absorb into the vinyl very well, so be very careful not to touch the dress fabric with your messy fingers during this process. I used a metal soldering tool (similar to a thin screwdriver) to help cut down on the mess. After giving the paint additional time to set and dry completely, I cut out the dress and sewed it together. Using a dressmaker’s mannequin helped a lot, especially when it came to figuring out the front slit of the dress. Getting it to stay flat and not curl is a function of working with the fabric while it’s hanging upright. All in all, it was a lot of work, but I’m happy with the results!
  7. Here are some more build photos, just for future Visas Marr costumers. For my Unseen veil, I went with a full circle of fabric, folded over as shown. The basting lines were used to help me evenly fold the hem and to ease the excess fabric underneath the edge. Once I was happy with the length of the veil, I cut the Siser Easyweed vinyl in a circular pattern for the shoulder edge and a straight design for the front. After applying the vinyl and stitching the hems, I added drapery weight cording to both areas of the veil. I played around with the fitting, then stitched the entire piece of fabric onto a black fabric skullcap. (The one I found has a hole at the base of the skull for a ponytail or braid. which helps it stay in place.) I also created some gentle folds and sewed a few stitches at various points around the veil to help tame it down. For the gloves, I used bands of black vinyl, added the gold trim, and placed snaps around the interior of the gloves and underneath the trim. I only bought one pair of gloves, and it’s nice to be able to swap between costumes when necessary.
  8. I used the same pattern for the inner dress and outer dress, and I made the inner dress first, in case modifications were needed. Then I put the pattern pieces on the black material and traced the cutting lines with a silver sharpie. (Make sure you reverse the pattern pieces, when necessary. Not much use for two left front sides in a dress.) I used four rolls of Oracal 813 stencil material (12 inches by 20 feet each) and part of a roll of Oramask HT55 transfer tape. I cut the design using my Silhouette Cameo 3 vinyl cutter, weeded out the stencil material where I wanted the paint to be, then used the transfer tape to pick up the stencil material in preparation for applying it to the fabric. Do not apply the stencil to the fabric until you are ready to paint! It will leave a residue if not removed within a few days. You will need a lot of pressure to get the stencil vinyl to stick to the masking tape. I used a rolling pin. Then you will also need to rub the stencil material onto the fabric with the rolling pin and/or fingernails. It is not an easy nor fun process. Once the stencil material is applied, paint the material. I found that silver spray paint followed by a dusting of black spray paint worked best for me, but depending on your material, you might be able to use other painting methods. As soon as the paint is dry, peel off the stencil material. Paint doesn’t usually absorb into the vinyl very well, so be very careful not to touch the dress fabric with your messy fingers during this process. I used a metal soldering tool (similar to a thin screwdriver) to help cut down on the mess. After giving the paint additional time to set and dry completely, cut out the dress and sew it together. Good luck!
  9. Thank you, Nina and Heidi! I’m so happy to have it finished and approved!
  10. Requesting detachment access, now that my Visas Marr is official. https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=19377 Thank you!
  11. Just received word that both versions have been approved by the 501st! My Unseen, Unheard version is also approved for the Rebel Legion (I didn’t submit the KOTOR II version to them). Now I just need to get trading cards made.
  12. Both costumes have been submitted for approval. Now I just have to wait.... Here are the photos for the Unseen, Unheard version (my favorite). So glad to be done!
  13. To be honest, it’s no big deal if the fabric is thin. The only parts of the underdress that will be seen are the sleeves and the front of the left leg, where the outer dress is split. If the fabric is really thin, you’ll want to buy even more of it, so you can use two laters for the veil. Plan on at least a yard and a half for the veil, three yards if you need to line it. Try to find a fabric that looks like a cherry red color for the KOTOR II version. As long as it’s not shiny, you should be okay. My build thread (Visas Marr in Germany) has information you might find helpful for the construction aspects, including the pattern I used for the dress. Keep in mind that my costume has not been approved yet, so things may change after I submit my photos for approval. Right now, I’m spending the bulk of my time finishing my costume, but I’ll be adding to my thread once we get home from the convention we are attending this weekend.
  14. Which version of the costume are you making? The KOTOR II version uses a dark red with purple undertones, while the Unseen, Unheard version uses dark burgundy. Symphony Broadcloth will work, but it will shrink a lot. Make sure you prewash it before starting the costume. I haven’t used the other fabric, but at that price point, I would assume it will shrink at least a little bit. Either way, I recommend buying 9-10 yards of fabric for the underdress and veil. It’s better to have a little extra than not enough, especially with dye lots changing from one bolt to the next. Here are my fabrics, color corrected as much as possible from the original iPhone photo. (It’s insanely difficult to get the colors right!)
  15. Just a quick note: My KOTOR II costume is finished!!! I’m going to finish up my Unseen, Unheard underdress and veil, then I’ll have my approval photos taken for both versions.
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